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? for those who airbrush Gunze Mr. Surfacer


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It also has to be fairly heavily thinned. If it's not thinned enough, you'll get a 'spider webbing' effect, where fine strings of Mr. S will build up on the end of your airbrush. Sort of like a cotton candy machine. If this happens, just add more thinner and try spraying again.

But yes, plain ol' hardware store lacquer thinner works fine for thinning the stuff, and cleaning your brush after. (it also works very well for thinning/airbrushing regular hobby enamels too).

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I find Mr. Thinner or PPG's Acrylic Lacquer Retarder to work the best because they are more forgiving than regular lacquer thinner. Yes, they take slightly longer to dry, but they give you a much smoother finish with a slight bit of luster.

Lacquer thinner tends to dry to a more flat or matte finish because it's drying in the air before it contacts the surface. The downside of this is having to be much more careful of spraying into angled surfaces such as wing roots, engine nacelle attachment to the wing, etc. With lacquer thinner, I've had to sand a few areas clear of pebbling due to the paint drying too fast. Now, I only use lacquer thinner for cleaning the airbrush.

Note: Acrylic Lacquer Retarder is usually used as an additive to lacquer thinner when thinning acrylic lacquers to slow down the drying, but I found it to work just fine by itself. However, don't use Gunze's Mr. Retarder in the same way, as it tends to make paint and surfacers bead up and drip.

Finally, you can spray Mr. Surfacer 1000 and 1200, but don't attempt it with Surfacer 500. The pigment in 500 is much grainier and you'll get a very rough texture if you try to spray it.

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I'd disagree about the pigments. I've sprayed the 1xxx and 500 types each a number of times - they're no different. 500 is just 'thicker', so needs more thinning to be sprayable.

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