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which airbrush should I get?


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I'm getting really tired of rattle cans, Its time for a new airbrush. I have already used an basic aztec single action airbrush on one project a couple years ago. And I didnt even try to built that well, it was a joke. Anyway, it broke, I never really liked the quality anyway, so I dont really want to get another aztec one (but I am open to sugestions).

What I do know I want is an Iwata or Pasache double action, but like I said, so many choices. From what I have read here a gravity feed works better unless its a laquer paint, so I'll probably go with a gravity feed, but again, I'm open to suggestions...thanks.

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You might want to consider a Paasche VL or an Iwata CS or BCS those would be good choices or you can always try a Badger 360(which can be either gravity or siphon feed) or Badger 150 Crescendo.

Edited by canadian_camo
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I would recommend an Aztek A470 (even though i keep a Badger 360 and a Badger 100 on hand also...). It has a bunch of different color tips to suit each of your spraying needs (general coverage for base coats, fine line for camou, mist for weathering- u can preshade after the final color coats, etc etc...)

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Before you make a decision, what is your budget for the brush? What types of paint do you expect to use? (acrylic? enamel? lacquer?) What scales do you build and what kind of camouflages do you anticipate doing?

All of these will have some impact on what would be a good airbrush for your needs. The Badger 150 has been recommended but it is a siphon feed where you have indicated a possible preference for gravity feed. Dixie Art here has Badger and Iwata, it might be helpful for you to see what some of the choices and costs would be, then ask more specific questions. I used a Badger 150 for about 12-13 years, a Paasche H before that, upgraded to an Iwata about 6 years ago and just got a H&S Evolution.

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Thanks for all your replys. I am thinking the badger 100/150 (which everyone is recomending!) or badger 360 or an Aztec 470 might be the way to go based on the replys.

Before you make a decision, what is your budget for the brush? What types of paint do you expect to use? (acrylic? enamel? lacquer?) What scales do you build and what kind of camouflages do you anticipate doing?

I use acryics, but i'd use a laquer usully if I ever need a NMF. I build mostly 48 scale, and have been saving up so I can get just about whatever I want. I do want something with a lot of control so I can do shading and such.

Will the tips for a badger 100/150 allow me to do fine lines and shading? Since it is single action do you have as much control over how subdle shading is? The F-14 are my fav plane so I'll be building many of them, and planes like the tomcat should have a lot of weathering/shading. So that would be a big factor.

It has a bunch of different color tips to suit each of your spraying needs (general coverage for base coats, fine line for camou, mist for weathering- u can preshade after the final color coats, etc etc...)

The A470 sounds nice to me, one thing about the mist coat tip though, can't you control how much paint is mixed with the air since it is double action? or did you mean mist with any of the tips?

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The A470 sounds nice to me, one thing about the mist coat tip though, can't you control how much paint is mixed with the air since it is double action? or did you mean mist with any of the tips?

I used to be a great fan of the Aztek system, I have 2 A-470's and the A-430. The trouble with the Aztek's is the trigger is very fragile, it wears out after a certian lenght of time This wasn't a problem since they had a life time warrenty when I bought mine, I could send one back and have the 2 others as working brushes.

Testor's now only gives a 3 year warrenty on Aztek's...so I can't recommend getting one myself.

I switched to the Badger 100G for my current airbrush (Thats a double action, so the 150 FYI) You can get it with either a fine, meduim or wide nozzle. The 150 will come with a deluxe set that has all 3 of the nozzles and needles assemblys (I have that also)

If you want a single acotion in the Badger line your thinking the 200 series :lol:

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As has already been explained, both of the Badger brushes mentioned most often (100 and 150) are double action. So are the Iwatas and most all of the higher quality airbrushes. You will find there is a noticable difference between, for instance, Badgers and Iwatas. The Iwata will be a higher quality airbrush. The question is do you need that difference, especially just now as you get started with airbrushing.

The needles and tips are interchangable between the Badger 100 and 150. The 100 is gravity feed and the 150 is siphon. Either will work well with acrylics, and even though some say Alclad II requires a siphon feed brush, I have had no problems applying it with both of my gravity feed brushes.

The big advantage gravity feed has is that since gravity is pulling the paint into the spray chamber instead of needing to generate suction via the airflow to siphon the paint up into the chamber, the gravity feed models can operate at a lower pressure setting. This makes it easier to do fine lines. For small jobs it is also possible to use less paint with a gravity feed model - typically I will use less then 10 drops total, both paint and thinner. On the down side, the paint cup choices for many gravity feed brushes are smaller then siphon feed, which may present a problem with larger models, especially in 1/48 scale. The Badger 100LG has a big enough color cup you should be fine, it is about the size of the one on my Iwata HP-C.

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You will find there is a noticable difference between, for instance, Badgers and Iwatas. The Iwata will be a higher quality airbrush.

I say BS to that statement.

For some reason Iwata's are "perceived" as higher quality when they are not.

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In terms of construction, balance and engineering, Badger is not in the same league as Iwata or H&S. However, something like a Badger 100 with a fine tip and needle is going to give pretty much the same finish as one of the latter brushes, and you'll probably only notice the difference in performance if attempting Luftwaffe or Italian style blotches, mottles and squiggles. Do you want to drive a Ford or a Merc?

I wouldn't be given an Aztek: they really are unmitigated crap, but some can get good results with them.

Nick

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I am more and more impressed and pleased with my Badger 360 every time I use it!

As noted above, it is a double action AB that can be used in either a gravity or siphon feed configuration (just by swiveling the tip) so you can spray acrylics very effectively, but also heavier enamels or lacquers that may require a siphon. I've found it to be very well made and quite sturdy. A major plus too is that it is EXTREMELY easy to clean. You'd have no trouble finding replacement parts for it (needles and tips are interchangeable with the Anthem 155 which is a siphon-only version of the 360) and if you ever require a major repair, you can send it back to Badger and they'll fix it for free (or very little).

I paid about $90 USD for mine (a kit that includes the AB, hose, fittings, mixing and siphon bottles) from Dixie Art. You could get the AB alone for a bit less, or an Anthem 155 set for around $70.

I had used Aztec ABs in the past, but got so frustrated with them that I was turned-off of airbrushing for nearly 10 years. The Badger 360 has definitely taken the bad taste out of my mouth, and I highly recommend it.

Cheers

Old Blind Dog

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I just recently, as in this past Tuesday, bought a new Airbrush. I called five different places that came recommended from fellow ARC'ers and I found Bear Air ( http://www.bearair.com/default.asp )to be the easiest and most helpful to deal with over the phone. Not to say the others were not good, but Bear Air was just that much better in my opinion. They sell everything and after talking to them about my needs and what I was looking for in an airbrush, the choices came down to the Badger 155 and the Badger 3155. The 3155 is essentially a 155, but with a few minor advantages. It is slightly more expensive, but not that much, so I went with it:

http://www.bearair.com/prodinfo.asp?number=100266

I ordered it Tuesday and it arrived bright and early Thursday morning <_< ! Ultra fast service in my opinion and they threw in a bunch of free stuff with the sale. I love it! I have only been fooling with it so far and I have not actually sprayed a model with it, but it is light, easy to control, easy to clean and well built.

I recommend Badger airbrushes. I have used nothing but Badger over the years (the 3155 that I just bought is my third Badger "upgrade"). I have borrowed other modelers airbrushes to try out other brands but I just don't like the feel of them. Also, Badgers customer service is FANTASTIC and any spare parts that you may need after a few years are easy to find and inexpensive!

An airbrush is a personal thing. There is no one best airbrush, only the one that is best for you and that you feel comfortable with. For me that's Badger brands. For others it is something else.

My two cents. Good luck with the search.

Regards,

Don

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I have both an Iwata HP-B and a Badger 100 (150?) with a side-mount color cup. Both are very durable and dependable brushes, but each has strengths/weaknesses. Let me first say that the Iwata is subjectively a superior piece of equipment -- somewhat like a BMW 5-series with a 6-speed gearbox versus a Honda Accord with a 4-speed automatic. At the risk of possibly offending some car owners, I will make some car anologies to illustrate the comparison.

The Iwata (the BMW) has better balance, parts fit tighter and produces superior lines and atomization of paint once you master it (compare that to a BMW's superior handling and braking). For the novice, it may be difficult to get consistent results, or it may be unrealized overkill. Many people complain that BMWs are too stiff and the ride can become tiresome. But put the BMW on twisty roads and it's awesome. Maintenance and parts can be expensive. Same with the Iwata.

The Badger (the Honda) is easier to learn and master from the get-go. And while it comes close to the Iwata in many respects, it just doesn't have that extra "something" for extremely intricate work. There are limitations to line thickness and the cleanliness of feathered edges compared to the Iwata. The trigger and stroke action are a bit more sloppy, so it's harder to get a smooth transition from a pin-point to a wide fan spray without some inconsistenices along the way. The Honda is best suited for daily commuting, picking up the kids and making short hops to the grocery store. Maintenance is simpler and parts are plentiful. Same with the Badger.

Most people (especially beginners) will probably feel more at ease with the Badger and will be perfectly happy with it their entire modeling life. Some will want more performance, even if it's fairly subtle or even subjective (again, compare BMW vs. Honda).

I primarily use my Badger for priming, NMF, and single-color painting of components. I then switch to the Iwata for pre-/post-shading, free-hand camouflage and final clear-coating.

I used to have a Paasche H, but it was too much of a Buick for me. Also had an Aztek (grey plastic body), but it felt like a Hyundai and it didn't do anything particularly well.

I hope I haven't offended too many people out there...so I'll shut up now.

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I have both an Iwata HP-B and a Badger 100 (150?) with a side-mount color cup. Both are very durable and dependable brushes, but each has strengths/weaknesses. Let me first say that the Iwata is subjectively a superior piece of equipment -- somewhat like a BMW 5-series with a 6-speed gearbox versus a Honda Accord with a 4-speed automatic. At the risk of possibly offending some car owners, I will make some car anologies to illustrate the comparison.

The Iwata (the BMW) has better balance, parts fit tighter and produces superior lines and atomization of paint once you master it (compare that to a BMW's superior handling and braking). For the novice, it may be difficult to get consistent results, or it may be unrealized overkill. Many people complain that BMWs are too stiff and the ride can become tiresome. But put the BMW on twisty roads and it's awesome. Maintenance and parts can be expensive. Same with the Iwata.

The Badger (the Honda) is easier to learn and master from the get-go. And while it comes close to the Iwata in many respects, it just doesn't have that extra "something" for extremely intricate work. There are limitations to line thickness and the cleanliness of feathered edges compared to the Iwata. The trigger and stroke action are a bit more sloppy, so it's harder to get a smooth transition from a pin-point to a wide fan spray without some inconsistenices along the way. The Honda is best suited for daily commuting, picking up the kids and making short hops to the grocery store. Maintenance is simpler and parts are plentiful. Same with the Badger.

Most people (especially beginners) will probably feel more at ease with the Badger and will be perfectly happy with it their entire modeling life. Some will want more performance, even if it's fairly subtle or even subjective (again, compare BMW vs. Honda).

I primarily use my Badger for priming, NMF, and single-color painting of components. I then switch to the Iwata for pre-/post-shading, free-hand camouflage and final clear-coating.

I used to have a Paasche H, but it was too much of a Buick for me. Also had an Aztek (grey plastic body), but it felt like a Hyundai and it didn't do anything particularly well.

I hope I haven't offended too many people out there...so I'll shut up now.

And some of us are skilled enough drivers to get the same results out of both. :) :P

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In terms of construction, balance and engineering, Badger is not in the same league as Iwata or H&S.

Maybe you can explain why you think this is true?

I hear people say this and yet it is just opinion and that's it. :)

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Ah yes, the debate rages on.

My two cents from a guy that hasnt built anything in a while.

If you took the time to save, why not take a bit more time and try the brushes out for heft/feel. See how you like the trigger action.

Art stores carry a lot of these brushes. IIRC that the two chain stores here in Toronto for example carry most of the ones mentioned. Then with your local hobby stores(s) thrown into the mix, you should be able to get a good handle(pun intended) on what feels good for you. You may find that you like the weight of feel of one brush over another, or not. They may look a lot alike, but IMHO they dont all feel the same.

This of course wont be possible for the H&S which by accounts is a great brush. I think that among the H&S owners here the concensus is great brush.

This is all very subjective. EVERYONE has their favorites. I got better results with the IWATA than either of the 1st two. But that being said, by the time the Iwata came around, I was really starting to learn how to thin medea correctly. You will have to learn your next brush. What thinner ratios work best etc etc.

I have a PAASCHE VL-single action, and an Aztec, and an Iwata CS. Many here have more then me, build better then me and know more then me. So in the end, I think it worth the time to try as many brushes as you can for feel. If it doesnt feel good in your hand, then how long will you be able to brush with it?

Best of luck with the choice, let us know what you get.

Edited by Av8fan
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