Best way of filling in ejection pin marks

[Andy Gudbergsson]

I'm in the middle of building a Ju-290 for the heavies GB and wanted to leave the door open but it has Four ejection pin marks and would be nearly impossible to fill them with putty and then sanding as you can see on the following pic.

Is there anything I can use to fill in those marks that works effectively. I was thinking White glue thinned with water or CA or any kind of super glue. Anybody have any recommendations.

Any input would be appreciated.

Cheers :(

Andy G

[phantom]

Ink out (white out) correction fluid. :(

[Andy Gudbergsson]

Phantom.

I have some of that liquid paper and have tried it, but it just too thick that it smears easily and dries to fast as well, it's hard to get a nice even application. But if nothing else, I'll give it another try.

Cheers :(

Andy G

[kenlilly106]

Thick paint is what I use.

I've got a bottle of gray enamel paint that's been kinda thick for the past year or so, I put enough in to fill the dimple and let it dry, it may take another application, once dry, a light sanding will smooth things out. As small as the area is, you may not be able to get anything in it to sand with, in that case, I'd use a Q-tip with some nail polish remover on it to smooth things out.

Ken

[Pete Wenman]

Andy hi

For this problem I would just cut six plastic card blanks and

insert one in each of the recesses, so covering the four sink

marks in the process.

Pete

[Chorse6]

I've used future with good results. Put a couple of drops to fill the hole; have it level itself out, prime and paint. Virtually invisible. May need to do a slight bit of sanding, but minimal.

[Mikeew]

I'd go with Pete's suggestion, use some card or better still paper might be more to scale in 1/72.

Cut some squares out to fit then simply put them over the panels to cover the offending pin marks, seal them in with white glue (PVA) round the edges and smooth the edges with a wet finger tip, prime and see if it has cured the problem.

HTH

Mike

[is it windy yet?]

I'd use my modelling chisel and scrape the holes flat, the touch up with mr surfacer if need be.

Ron

[Andy Gudbergsson]

Thanks guys for your input and suggestions, I shall take all these under advisement. But I think I'm going with Petes and Mikes suggestions and see how it works out.

Thanks guys for your inputs.

Cheers :)

Andy G

[Chuck1945]

Another idea for you if you have Gunze Mr Surfacer 500 or even CA if you get on it quickly before it hardens too much.

First using Gunze Surfacer apply it liberaly in the sink marks to allow for shrinkage. Then cut the tip off a round toothpick at an angle, cut out a small piece of 400 or 600 (or whatever :) ) sandpaper super glue it to the toothpick end and you now have a micro sander

[sutan]

I would use a punch and die set and punch out the corresponding hole size from .010" styrene and cement it over the ejector mark. Dry fit before cementing to check if the styrene is thick if it is thick sand it a bit and dry fit again until its flush with the surrounding area

[Thommo]

I would still putty - use Tamiya putty then use the q-tip dipped in acetone trick to remove excess till it is flush - OR mix up a slurry of putty & acetone and carefully with a painbrush just place it in the sink mark, gradually building it up (can then smooth with q-tip as above if needed)

[Andy Gudbergsson]

Well I see I got some more suggestions here to think about. I shall take all these under advicement and see what works best. I'm not in a real great hurry to do the doors as they will be attached when the model has been painted, decalled and weatherd, so I have some time to think these things over. But thanks guys for all of your inputs, I really appreciate it.

Cheers :)

Andy G