GA.modelmaker Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 what other putties are out thier for models? i know some of you use some from autmovie stores but i cant remember the names of them, so what other type can be used for modeling Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kenlilly106 Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 3M Acryl Blue is probably the most famous of the automotive putties that modelers use. The tube is about 1 pound (½ kilo) and costs about $15 or so. You can only buy it at auto supply stores that cater to pro's, the mass market chains (Autozone, Pep Boys, etc.) don't carry it. I've used the same tube for about 8 years or so, and I haven't used half of it yet, I build about 6 1/48 jets a year, I think the worst fitting kit used less than a tablespoon of the putty, so you can see how long it lasts. 3M also makes Acryl Red and Acryl Green, both coarser grained than the Blue, I think red is the coarsest and green is in the middle, maybe the other way around. Bondo has a red spot putty, I used a tube of it before I tried Squadron White, Bondo red is fine, just a bear to cover the color if you're doing a light paint scheme, and it did seem to be coarse grained, a good coat of primer and a light sanding sealed it well. Supposedly, Testors MM Red Putty is the same stuff. Evercoat brand catalized putties are popular with the automotive modeling crowd, mainly due to the quick cure time (<10 minutes), but they have a strong solvent smell. These are the only ones I can think of off the top of my head. Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drifterdon Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 I used to use Squadron White putty because it was easy to paint with a white or light colored paint but it took forever to dry, left small bubble holes and usually ended up shrinking after a period of time where it showed the area puttied. A couple years ago I was converting the Mono F-100D into a F-100F. I was using gap filling super glue to glue the parts together and was amazed how quickly I was able to build up the gap between the parts. With a little zip kicker you can start sanding almost immediately and the stuff will not shrink and it cures hard as nails. The only drawback, it stinks to high heaven and if you don't start sanding right away, the dry hard as nails makes it tough to sand down. I've used gap filling super glue now exclusively and had to toss out my white stuff because it dried in the tube. Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trojansamurai Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 Tamiya putty also works well. It has what appears to be metal particles (possibly to control shrinkage and add rigidity). Dries pretty fast, adheres well and sands well. Not as porous as Squadron Green. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Av8fan Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 There is Aves Apoxie sculpt as I have mentioned before. I've yet to break mine open. I should get off my tail feathers and try it and post back shouldnt I? apoxie sculpt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Julien (UK) Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 Tamiya putty also works well. It has what appears to be metal particles (possibly to control shrinkage and add rigidity).Dries pretty fast, adheres well and sands well. Not as porous as Squadron Green. Yes I have noticed this quality about it. Must admit since I came across this tamyia putty for small jobs I will use nothing else, very much better than the sqn stuff. Not good for large jobs though. For larger jobs and sculpting, particuarly wing to body joins I use milliput. I know it takes a long time to cure but you can get most of the shape with a wet finger or clay moulding tool and then the final result requires little sanding. Will also not melt placstic if used in large amounts. Julien Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kozlok Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 I'm pretty much converted to superglue for the big cracks, and Gunze Mr. Surfacer for the small stuff. I apply the Gunze with an old pointed paint brush, and it has cut my sanding down considerably. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Kethan Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 I'm a big fan of Tamiya putty.... It dries great, sands well. For larger jobs, Super glue is my weapon of choice. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
volzj Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 I'm a big fan of Tamiya putty.... It dries great, sands well. For larger jobs, Super glue is my weapon of choice.Chris My exact methods as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WW2ace Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Any auto glazing putty will work fine. Bondo brand is about 2 bucks for a 4.5oz tube. I thin it with Testor's liquid cement (brush-in-cap type). For nasty gaps, apply super glue over a sanded base coat of glazing putty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AnthonyWan Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 I've always used Tamiya Grey Basic - can be sanded very smooth, and is (as some1 else said) very strong, and does not shink at all Tamiya Epoxy (quick and regular) - works well for those reallly bad seams and places where i screwed up the sanding (sanded too much and something looks 'flat') Mr. Dissolved Putty - works well for small jobs, and stuff in tough places (missile fins, around windsrcresns) -cleans up in seams with 91% alcohol about 4-5 mins after application HTH Anthony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Julien (UK) Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 No one mentioned Milliput yet ? Sinners. Hey I did , great for medium sized and bigger jobs, can also be used for smaller jobs but for them I prefer tamyia asl it dries quicker. Julien Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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