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1/72 Italeri RF-84F Thunderstreak


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This model comes with v sparse cockpit detail - a basic seat & pilot are the only internals.

Couldn't source an aftermarket details set, so going to scratch it up. Got some bits from a 1/72 Italeri Mustang. The radio pack that goes behind the pilot is a perfect fit for a cockpit tub when turned upside down. Thinned the walls a bit to make the seat fit. Will turn the Mustang seat into a bang seat & add side console details etc.

Then have to decide if I go the whole hog & sand off & rescribe the raised panel lines (never done that before ;) )

ScratchTubsmaller.jpg

Edited by Thommo
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I've put about 10 hours into detailing the cockpit now, just adding ridiculously small bits of plastic & metal from my junk box. I'm happy with the progress, esp the scratch-built control column. Using the upturned Mustang radio tub was a good way to go - it provided a good solid base to stick everything to. Paint goes on next :(

Close6.jpg

Close5.jpg

Close2.jpg

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Thommo

Way to go mate!

Crikey, is the kitchen sink there too? :thumbsup:

Looking forward to seeing what it looks like after a lick of paint.

:cheers:

Johno

Johno - the nice thing about the Thunderstreak is that when opn the canopy sits way up high on a couple of hyraulic arms, so you can see right into the cockpit. So for once, all the detailing should be worth it. Of course having gone to town on the cockpit I now feel obliged to do the same in the wheel wells, block of the see thru wing intakes.....

Sent you kits off on Tuesday a wek ago - they should arrive soon

cheers

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Got some paint on the cockpit now - the green is a mix of Tamyia deep green & model master interior green.

A bit challenging painting those yellow handles with black stripes in 1/72

Also, should have drybrushed the inst panel BEFORE gluing in place, but because I had to scratch all the surrounding bits, I fixed it in place early to make sure they all lined up. Added some tiny drops of Future to the dial faces for that glass appearance.

This might be the start of a jet affair (after I'd decided I'd stick to props) - I love the colourful cockpits in jets :lol:

CockpitPaintSmaller.jpg

InSituClose1.jpg

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Thanks for the feedback Steve. That is the most scratchbuilding I've ever attempted in a cockpit.

I've moved onto the wheel wells now - blocking them off so not see-thru. There's just not enough space in a 1/72 well to add all the plumbing that appears on the real a/c, but I've added some more ribbing & a few other bits to make it look a bit busy.

WheelClose.jpg

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Johno - long way to go yet mate. I think I'm gonna rescribe the panel lines using the raised panel lines as a guide, then sand them off. Never re-scribed a whole model, so fingers crossed :D .

Casey - you could do it, it's just a matter of getting some good reference pics off the Web, then patiently cutting up little bits of plastic & wire & sticking them on. Lots of trial & error & repeating things that go wrong plus a bit of CA, a blade & tweezers. Lots of dry fitting before you glue to make sure everything will fit. A little imagination because you can't replicate everything exactly in 1/72, so you have to sort of make it look right. I also have small hands & good eyes for fine work (touch wood!) which helps

George - paint & markings????? i'm leaning toward the all metal USAF finish (using Alclad) but there is also a very nice German camo option which appeals. I'll decide after all the building is done.

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all metal USAF finish (using Alclad)

You'll get yourself thrown out of the AS-12 club doing that you know. :blink: .

BTW I'm in the middle of my first re-scribing job too - I recommend Mr Surfacer and Micromesh for hiding slips of the blade. So far, Wings and flat surfaces are easy enough, but Fuselages can be interesting.

Steve.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, here is a pic of my first go at re-scribing

Scribing0001.jpg

Looks reasonable, until you look close at the fuselage :D

Scribing0002.jpg

And I'm not even game to show you the underwing drop tanks. Someone in another discussion we had on re-scribing said it sucks the fun out of modeling - I have some sympathy for those sentiments !

I'll probably have to do some more puttying, re-scribing etc on some fuselage lines. Unfortunately I could not find any dymo tape. On the flat surfaces this was OK as I could use a steel ruler to get a pretty straight line. On the fuselage, I used the raised panel line as a scribing guide and did an initial light pass with the back of the exacto blade, then gradually went deeper & cleaned out with the needles. I then sanded off the raised stuff and did more passes with the sharp side of the blade at right angles to the line. This works OK on flat areas, but not so well on curved surfaces.

Ah well, I'll soldier on :D

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Braver man than me Thommo!

I am sure after a lick of paint, it will look beaut though :)

:cheers:

Johno

I just got stupider Johno - off work today, so decided rather than use the crappy bits of thick plastic to cover the 6 or so tiny camera windows in the nose, I'd cut them from clear packaging plastic & CA them in place. 3 hours later.........they're in place, sort of.

Now I've convinced myself I need to put something that resembles a camera behind each one :huh:

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The late Henry N. Manney III. Writer for Road & Track. He always abbreviated "very" as "v".

OooooK - I'd never have guessed that!

An update - after spending about 5 hours yesterday making tiny little windows out of packaging plastic to cover the 8 or so camera ports in the nose, installing those then building little camera-ish thingys to go behind each window......I went to the hobby shop today on the off chance they had some of that small window making stuff and they did (Model Master Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker), so I got the last bottle in the shop.

So now I'm probably gonna tear out those windows and use this stuff.

Anybody used it to make windows before, any tips? - mine are about 3mm X 4mm in size

Can the windows then be masked or are they too fragile, so should I make them last thing after painting etc

Edited by Thommo
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OooooK - I'd never have guessed that!

An update - after spending about 5 hours yesterday making tiny little windows out of packaging plastic to cover the 8 or so camera ports in the nose, installing those then building little camera-ish thingys to go behind each window......I went to the hobby shop today on the off chance they had some of that small window making stuff and they did (Model Master Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker), so I got the last bottle in the shop.

So now I'm probably gonna tear out those windows and use this stuff.

Anybody used it to make windows before, any tips? - mine are about 3mm X 4mm in size

Can the windows then be masked or are they too fragile, so should I make them last thing after painting etc

Thommo

I used Testors clear parts/window maker on my Challenger kit which went on well but looked bloody crook after it had dried. The stuff thinned towards the middle and did not look any good. In the end I used decals.

You cannot mask the stuff and it is common practice to make the windows last, after the model is flat coated.

:thumbsup:

Johno

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Thommo

I used Testors clear parts/window maker on my Challenger kit which went on well but looked bloody crook after it had dried. The stuff thinned towards the middle and did not look any good. In the end I used decals.

You cannot mask the stuff and it is common practice to make the windows last, after the model is flat coated.

:huh:

Johno

Oh - that's not good news. I guess I'll try it out on one window & if it does the same, I'll stick with the fiddly bits of plastic.

Thanks Johno

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