ModelDay Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 (edited) Pictures are self explanatory Edited August 5, 2006 by ModelDay Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ModelDay Posted July 29, 2006 Author Share Posted July 29, 2006 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 Hi, Really neat idea there and far more economical than the commercial versions. One suggestion I would have is to make the top sheet clear. That way, if you have to precisely line up the part (such as to punch out the instrument dial locations in a panel) you can see to do it. But a great idea and beautifully made....thanks for sharing it. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew D. the Jolly Rogers guy Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 Very nice! Very inventive. And yes, I also like Bob's idea of a transparent layer for alignment purposes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Liberator24 Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 Well, even us wantabe's can afford one! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ModelDay Posted July 30, 2006 Author Share Posted July 30, 2006 Working on the clear top version!! :o Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Walker Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 (edited) Nice system. Are you going to offer them for sale? Shoot, you wouldn't even have to drill the holes in them, we could do that ourselves. Edited July 30, 2006 by David Walker Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ModelDay Posted July 30, 2006 Author Share Posted July 30, 2006 Not for sale, David. I'm just a guy living in Brazil with no access to imported goods for my hobby quite often. That's why I'm always trying new ideas. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CanadaMoe Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 What a great design!!!! Do you use the other end of the drill to punch the holes or do you use a different object? If you use the drill, do you protect the sharp end of the drill from the hammer strike? What is the thickness of plastic you're punching? TIA Moe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Walker Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 Not for sale, David. I'm just a guy living in Brazil with no access to imported goods for my hobby quite often. That's why I'm always trying new ideas. Okay, thanks. I'm sure many of us will try to reproduce what you've illustrated here. It seems like a great idea. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PapaSmurf630 Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 When you drill through the acrylic sheets, especially with the smaller size drills, how are you keeping the angles square? Or are you using a pillar drill? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Emvar Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 What a great design!!!!Do you use the other end of the drill to punch the holes or do you use a different object? If you use the drill, do you protect the sharp end of the drill from the hammer strike? What is the thickness of plastic you're punching? TIA Moe With the price of Drill bit sets at Canadian Tire I wouldn't worry about that Pointy end too much. Great Idea.... I'm using that one!!!!! Could never bring myself to cough up a Hundred bucks for a Waldron set. Drill bit Sets are always on sale at Canadian Tire for less than $10 Bucks. Thanks for the Cool tip Modelday!!!!! Emil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PapaSmurf630 Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 I think if you put the pointy end into a pinvise, it'll protect the drill. It also gives you a larger area to hit with the hammer (Your thumbs will thank you) Atleast that's what I think would work. Hope I'm not stealing your thunder here ModelDay, but there's another thread I found similar to this one: http://www.network54.com/Forum/149674/mess...h+more+sizes%21 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ModelDay Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 What a great design!!!!Do you use the other end of the drill to punch the holes or do you use a different object? If you use the drill, do you protect the sharp end of the drill from the hammer strike? What is the thickness of plastic you're punching? TIA Moe I protect the sharp end of the drill with a plastic cap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ModelDay Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 When you drill through the acrylic sheets, especially with the smaller size drills, how are you keeping the angles square? Or are you using a pillar drill? That's right and, take your time. Use a very slow speed to avoid melting the acrylic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kurly Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 great idea! but PLEASE do not strike a drill bit with a hammer. its a very big no no. the metal shatters and the fragments are very sharp. if you do, wear safety glasses and a face sheild. a proper set of punches are cheaper than a glass eye. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ModelDay Posted August 3, 2006 Author Share Posted August 3, 2006 great idea! but PLEASE do not strike a drill bit with a hammer. its a very big no no. the metal shatters and the fragments are very sharp. if you do, wear safety glasses and a face sheild. a proper set of punches are cheaper than a glass eye. Don't worry kurly! I know: safety first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Emvar Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 I'm gathering My plans for this project, and I think I'll drill into a dowel and leave the bit in the wood. Like I said around here drill bits are very inexpensive so a set can be converted to just a punch set. :) Emil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ModelDay Posted August 3, 2006 Author Share Posted August 3, 2006 (edited) I'm gathering My plans for this project, and I think I'll drill into a dowel and leave the bit in the wood. Like I said around here drill bits are very inexpensive so a set can be converted to just a punch set. :) Emil Go ahead Elmo!!!! I'm already working on my "metalic base" version. It will be made of a U$ 2,00 alluminium scrap plate. Pictures???? Soon!!!! B) Edited August 3, 2006 by ModelDay Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ModelDay Posted August 5, 2006 Author Share Posted August 5, 2006 (edited) Working on the final version: Aluminum plate: U$ 2,57 (from scrap) Acrylic plate: Free (from scrap) Two metallic shelf holders: US$ 0,17 Edited August 7, 2006 by ModelDay Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ModelDay Posted August 5, 2006 Author Share Posted August 5, 2006 Drilling pattern... Sugestions???? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tbolt Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 Looking good. I've got the Waldron minature set, but was also looking at producing my own instead of forking out for the sub-minature set (wouldn't be so bad if Roll Models charged a reasonable shipping rate, but they charge shipping based on the price not the weight or size!). So have you try punching with one of these? I was thinking that because drills don't produce perfectly round holes you would need to ream the holes after drilling so you wouldn't be able to use the drill that you made the hole with. If yours punches fine I'll might have a go at doing it this way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ModelDay Posted August 5, 2006 Author Share Posted August 5, 2006 (edited) That's what I got so far: Edited August 5, 2006 by ModelDay Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tbolt Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 Doesn't look to bad, just needs a little cleaning up, but hey it did cost virtually nothing :lol: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ModelDay Posted August 6, 2006 Author Share Posted August 6, 2006 That's right. The cost is almost nothing. I will keep you guys posted!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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