model_madness Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 I have glued the fueselage halves together after inserting the cockpit, but need to clean it as its dirty from being handled during painting and assembly. I guess i should have worn surgical gloves, but i didn't so any suggestions on how to clean it prior to painting? Obviously soaking in warm soapy water isn't an option at this stage... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jay Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 How dirty is it? If it's just grubby from dirty fingers then you can clean it with some rubbing alcohol or maybe even a clean lint free cloth dipped in some thinners. A tack cloth will be very handy to remove any dust or fibres. It won't take long for the alcohol/thinners to evaporate, but be on the safe side and make sure it's totally dry before you prime/paint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew D. the Jolly Rogers guy Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Probably just a good damp wipedown is all you'd need. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ivanho4 Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Depending on whether you're in a rush, you have numerous options: Gently scrub the surface again with a soft toothbrush dipped in a mix of water and mild detergent. Either let it air dry or wipe with a lint free cloth. You can also go over it with 70% alcohol. Polly Scale makes a pretty decent surface prep you can buy, but it's a tad expensive. Any of these should get rid of finger oils, dust, sanding dust, etc. Good luck, it shouldn't be that big a deal to get ready to paint. HTH, Ivan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul T Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Alcohol,alcohol,alcohol ! Isopropyl (rubbing alcohol....I use 90%) and Q-tips ,works great ,cuts grease & oils ,leaves no residue as some soaps may do if not rinsed properly and dries quickly,ready for paint in seconds. Paul T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
model_madness Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 Can you also use thinner lacquer directly applied with a cotton bud or will this damage the plastic? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hague Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Lacquer thinner will etch the plastic, get a bottle of isopropyl alcohol or denatued alcohol and some decent lint free cloths. Isop alc. is cheap and safe to use and preps plastic well for paint. All my kits get a wipedown before prime/seam check coat. Hague Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ro-Gar Hobbies Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 If your paint is fully cured you should have no problem washing the model with soap and water in the sink. I do it all the time and never had a problem with the painted portions of my model. But I do only paint with enamels, but also the washing should not effect the acrylic either if it has fully cured. Once you wash the model let it air dry overnight and then proceed with your next stage of painting. But if you not comfortible with washing the model you can use alcohol or plastic prep from Polly Scale, using a cotton rag or old cotton shirt. NEVER USE SOLVENTS TO CLEAN YOUR MODEL! Never use Lacquer Thinner, mineral spirits or Acetone, all these are harmfull to plastic and will either melt or distort details on your model. And if one drop gets on your painted surfaces, then you have another problem. Regards, Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
f14peter Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 If cleaning painted surfaces, soap-and-water is the way to go . . . just make sure any water-based paints are fully cured. If cleaning bare plastic, rubbing alcohol (readily available and incredibly cheap) will do a good job. One other point . . . bare styrene plastic is a wonderful home for static electricity so too much rubbing with too a dry medium (Towel) will soon have every dust particle, cathair, and small insect in the room racing through the air to stick to your freshly cleaned surface. Using alcohol, wiping gently, usually avoids the nasty build-up of that annnoying static cling. And speaking of static electricity, often a quick wipe with one of those towelettes you throw in your clothes dryer (used to guess what? Fight static electricity!) will usually knock the static down. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
T-bone Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 A tack cloth will be very handy to remove any dust or fibres. I would be catious with the use of tack cloths since they may leave residue that will interfere with some water born paints (tack cloths are usually impregnated with varnish). If dust is an issue either wash it away, use a microfiber cloth, brush off with a soft bristle brush, or blow it off with a puff of air from the airbrush -- or your lungs! Just make sure you're not eating crackers at the same time! If static electricity is a problem washing with water should do the trick. High humidity always cures my static cling! <_< Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fulcrum Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 I use the very common glass cleaner and an piece of old T-shirt and it works fine. :blink: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ron Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 I'd suggest next time you wash your hands before working the ***** pit :blink: Sorry couldn't resist, not serious. Alcohol..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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