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Thanks Guys,

Aidy, this is for you :doh: Probbaly not the best way to do it but here is my try on the flaps:

With the wings assembled and the lower flaps sanded down, I first started with creating a paper template. Then from there, I cut two identical plastic card parts. Those were then sanded to make the chord line thinner

OA4M_19_flaps.jpg

The actuators bulges were cut from the wing and I also glued them on plasticard then sanded to shape.

OA4M_20_flaps.jpg

Obviously, the actuators will need to be sanded down, so the new angle fits.

OA4M_21_flaps.jpg

Then both sides of the lower flaps are engraved and detailled. A notch was made to let go the hydraulic rod.

This comes from a F-104 engine cut to shape.

OA4M_22_flaps.jpg

The flaps assembled and ready

OA4M_24_flaps.jpg

A final dryfit

OA4M_23_flaps.jpg

Not sure at 100% but I think the inner flaps on the aircraft I'm doing seems to be grey, so no red i'm afraid... :)

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I put some finishing touches before the painting starts

The airbrakes will be just a notch open (that saves me the hassle to the sanding if I were to close them fully), so I simply secured them in place with Bluetack.

The antenna on the tail are supplied in white metal. One is bigger than the other, better check the pictures to avoid doing a stupid mistake.

The OA-4M seems to have retained the third chaff&flares dispensers that is not featured on the A-4M. On the other hand, it has not the parachute container below the nozzle

OA4M_30_airbrake.jpg

For the first time I tried to create the fire resistant coating on USN & Marines bombs. I tried different mix of putty and glue but finally opted for Tamiya Putty diluted with Mr Color Thinner. The result is not 100% satisfactory. I wanted to have a rougher effect. I might try with plastic bits mixed with liquid glue, later...

OA4M_29_snakeye.jpg

Finally the model and subassemblies are ready for primer, I painted the canopy Black first so the inside shows black. that's easier than painting the inner canopy frame afterward :nanner:

I debated for long to assemble the wings to the fuselage before painting. I decided to try keeping them separated at least until I paint the undeside colors. It seems a good fit anyway and shouldn't pose too many problems - At wors, i 'll have to sand a little through the underside colours...

OA4M_25_readyforpaint.jpg

As usual I prime my models with Mr Surfacer 1000 then it's checking time for any spot that needs more sanding, cyano filling or panel lines correction

OA4M_26_surfacer.jpg

Once I was happy with the result, I finished the week-end by pre shading the panel lines in black...

I do really need to master that technique better

OA4M_28_preshading.jpg

Sorry for the picture quality, it was pretty dark in the room. All in all, that was a pretty good week end modelling :)

Edited by Red Dog
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I usually paint my camo free hand, but with the precision required here on some parts to ensure the dual colours decals fit, I need to make some planning.

Luckily, only the MARINES and JET INTAKES cones are concerned.

I thus printed my decals on paper pand cut them to shape before taping them to their place on the model. That allows me to draw a precise demarcation line between the future grey and the green coats. I will also need to have that demarcation line as fine as possible

OA4M_32_decals.jpgOA4M_31_decals.jpg

can't wait to start painting, hopefully the coming week end ...

Not sure if I'll make it before the end of the GB, but I try as best as I can without spoiling it

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I was told most of the Skyhawk kits have a slat problem. Apaprently, on the real birds, the slats well come flush with the wing. In most skyhawk kits, it's not flush - probably to be able to place the slat in a closed position.

So I filled the stair effect with putty to correct the problem:

OA4M_33_slats.jpg

I also spent some time to paint the upper fuselage with the green/grey paint scheme.

The green is H309, grey is H308.

I was not happy with the preshading left after the green was applied so I lightened the green with white and sprayed the inside of the panels, especially on top where the paint should suffer most from discoloration.

Here are two images:

OA4M_34_paint.jpgOA4M_35_paint.jpg

Now I will apply back a coat of heavily thinned H309 to fade the effect and see what comes out of it...

Edited by Red Dog
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Hey Red Dog!

That is a really nice build and paint job! I'm realy intrested in, how the camouflage will come out when finished! I'm building an FW-190, and I'm planning to use this method, for shading the camo!!!

Cheers

georch, from Hungary

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Well, this is what it gaves after a few hours and a gloss coat, ready for decalling

The technique I used was passed to me from a fellow modeller. Once the inside of the panels have been lightened with base colour and white, the base colour heavily thinned with Mr Color thinner is spayed on the green part of the camo. The Mr Colour thinner is not an acrylic thinner, while the Gunze Colours are acrylic.

the above mix has the particularity to make the final coat quite transparent, a little bit like the Tamiya smoke. That's a perfect overspray for attenuating the above effect.

OA4M_36_camo.jpg

This is a bluetack dryfit of the subassemblies to have an idea of what the finished model should look like.

Underside is painted H338 and I retained H308 for the wing tanks.

Some details shots:

OA4M_37_camo.jpgOA4M_38_camo.jpg

OA4M_39_camo.jpgOA4M_40_camo.jpg

Some parts of the top grey H308 have been retouched with underside grey (H338) before being faded with H308 mixed with Mr Colour thinner as explained above - like the intakes lips, below the rudder, some antenna spot on the fuselage usually retouched by the line maintenance, come doors, etc etc. It's the first time I try that and I'm pleased with the effect.

The JATO attach points on the speedbrakes and the exhaust are alclad. The antenna tips are usually radome tan H318. I finally decided to paint the inside of the speedbrakes the same grey as the fuselage grey (H308) had to fight myself a lot to refrain from placing a touch of red in there :rofl:

I can't wait to check if my homemade decals are up to the task...

Edited by Red Dog
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I can't wait to check if my homemade decals are up to the task...

Red Dog, the artwork for your decals looked great before; and based upon the level of craftmanship on your cammo job, I think the finished effort will be spectacular! Can't wait to see it-

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Red Dog, the artwork for your decals looked great before; and based upon the level of craftmanship on your cammo job, I think the finished effort will be spectacular! Can't wait to see it-

Thanks Harv

Unfortunately, they are not :woo:

The grey in my artwork seem too light and comes out of the decal film too transparent. It doesn't stand correctly over the green and spoil completely the effect.

The solution would be to print some white underlayer but unfortunately, i can't print white on my genuine laser printer :tease:

The green part of the decal looks spot on though :coolio:

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Thanks Harv

Unfortunately, they are not :worship:

The grey in my artwork seem too light and comes out of the decal film too transparent. It doesn't stand correctly over the green and spoil completely the effect.

The solution would be to print some white underlayer but unfortunately, i can't print white on my genuine laser printer :)

The green part of the decal looks spot on though :worship:

Red Dog, maybe I can suggest trying white decal film, and printing an 'outline only' in light grey to use as a trim guide to put under the grey decal to help with the opacity...Just a thought- good luck,

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Thanks Harv,

That's exactly what I 'm trying to achieve at this time.

Tried different other things but the easiest would be to print outline on a white decal film, cut it to shape and place the white decal under the grey one.

Lots of cutting work - I won't be ready in time but I'm sure it will work out

Thanks for the input

By the way, since I don't have white decal sheets, would it be appropriate to paint the transparent decal film in white, then print the outline on it? Or would I run into the same opacity problem

Olivier

Edited by Red Dog
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  • 3 years later...
Where did this build get to? Did you manage to find a resolution to the decal issues? Any further updates?

Well it was completed but not in time for the end of this GB. It was posted in the critique corner section but with the limited search tool I can't find it back

Anyway, here are some picture of the finished model.

OA4M_45_final.jpg

OA4M_46_final.jpg

OA4M_49_final.jpg

OA4M_50_final.jpg

For the decals, I ended up manually cutting white decals to place under the homemade grey ones to give them more opacity

Since then, I also completed a T4-4J in 1/32

22_TA-4J_final_3.jpg

24_TA-4J_final_5.jpg

Edited by Red Dog
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Red Dog,

Just read through your tread and WOW !!

Both your Scooters are FANTASTIC and SUPERB.

You did a great job and love the red scheme...AWESOME finish on both of them,FLAWLESS.

HOLMES :D :D :P

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Thanks for the comments gents.

I have a last one to do then I'll call it a day for scooters...

That will be an Ex marine, ex kuwaiti, brazilian AF1 :lol:

Single seat this time with a real challenge on the "M" canopy

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