Advice on scribing.

[aerofan]

Hey Guys,

Any advice on scribing, like what kind of tool to use and how to go about it. Thanks.

[tomcatter727]

I've had good luck using a pin vise with a needle in it and dymo tape as a guide.

[tomcatter727]

I've had good luck using a pin vise with a needle in it and dymo tape as a guide.

[tomcatter727]

opps, tripple post.

Edited October 6, 2006 by tomcatter727

[Stan in YUL]

Definitly agree pin vice and dymo tape. just a couple of extra tips:

Ever so oftan, wipe down your surfaces with a clean tissue dampened with rubbing alcohol as this will clean off the oils from your skin that will cause your tape to lose its grip.

At the start and end of a "line", press your pin in just enough to get the feel of a depression; set your tape up then very lightly run your pin from end to end. You should feel the marks you made and so you can be assured that line your about to scribe is where you think it is. After you do a little sanding at the end, these slightly deeper depressions will not be noticible at all.

After your lines are scribed, do a light wet sand with 600 & 1200 grit (starting with 400 is a bit too rough).

Next, scrub your lines with a wet paste mixture of powdered clenser (like Comet or Ajax) using a tooth brush.

That last one is understanably extra work but the results are definitly worth it.

hth's

Stan in YUL

[Thommo]

Here's a link to my first attempt at changing raised panel lines into scribbed ones

Thunderflash scribing

I won't be trying it again in a hurry

[ilpwnp]

Here's a link to my first attempt at changing raised panel lines into scribbed ones

Thunderflash scribing

I won't be trying it again in a hurry

Me either! Matt

[jrallman]

if the panel lines are accurate, some guys will use the raised lines as the guide to scribe, then sand them off afterwords. that way you dont need to worry about the dymo tape and getting it in the right place and all. i havent tried it yet, but i think i will next time a build a big revellogram bomber.

[Thommo]

if the panel lines are accurate, some guys will use the raised lines as the guide to scribe, then sand them off afterwords. that way you dont need to worry about the dymo tape and getting it in the right place and all. i havent tried it yet, but i think i will next time a build a big revellogram bomber.

Yes - that's exactly what i did on my Thunderflash on the curved bits (fuselage). Used the raised lines like you would dymo tape, did an initial light pass with the back of exacto blade, then deeper passes with blade/needle, then tidied up with the sharp edge of exacto at right-angles to the line. On the flat areas (wings etc) I also used a steel ruler as en extra guide. The flat areas worked quite well. The curved areas not so neat. After scribing I sanded off the raised panel lines (except some small fiddly ones on the fuselage that were too hard to scribe so i left those as raised).

[trojansamurai]

If the existing panel lines are in the right locations, you can try this novel technique:

First, sand all the scribing down until it's smooth.

Then airbrush a thin coat of laquer thinner onto the bare plastic (yes, you read that correctly).

The laquer thinner will actually cause the panel lines to sink in, resulting in very shallow recessed lines. You'll most likely have to deepen the lines with a scriber, but depending on the softness of the plastic, they may look fine as-is.

Since this technique does not always have the same results, I suggest you try it first on an inconspicuous area, such as the underside of a wing.

[Old Blind Dog]

If the existing panel lines are in the right locations, you can try this novel technique:

First, sand all the scribing down until it's smooth.

Then airbrush a thin coat of laquer thinner onto the bare plastic (yes, you read that correctly).

The laquer thinner will actually cause the panel lines to sink in, resulting in very shallow recessed lines. You'll most likely have to deepen the lines with a scriber, but depending on the softness of the plastic, they may look fine as-is.

Since this technique does not always have the same results, I suggest you try it first on an inconspicuous area, such as the underside of a wing.

Oh man! I have got to try that! Thanks for the tip!

Old Blind Dog

[redruffensore]

Careful how you reuse raised lines, they are often wrong, as the kit is usually old. The best thing to do is run off three-views to the scale of the model. Dymo tape is great for curves, but I still prefer a thin flexible metal straight edge for straight lines. I start by cutting a very thin etching with a sharp @11 blade and work the etching a little deeperwith each pass. After working the recess, I first clean it out with a needle in a pin vise, then use a dental scaler to debur the edges.

Caz

[tbell]

My preferred tool is a good old No. 11 X-acto blade with a wee bit (~ 0.5mm) broken off the tip. Like the others, I use Dymo tape as a guide and always cut a clean edge. I use the X-acto for straight or gently curved lines and a needle in a pin vise for smaller ports, hatches, etc. For the smaller shapes I use a photoetched template or make my own from 0.0010" styrene.

The single most effective "secret" is to brush lacquer thinner into the scribed line and let it dry before wet sanding it with 800 grit. This keeps the raised edge on either side of the line from getting pushed back down. You can also use liquid cement, but it needs to be applied much more sparingly.

Once I think I'm done all the scribing and sanding I prime the model with Mr. Surfacer and look for slip-ups, missed lines, etc., fix them and prime again. I usually end up going through this cycle at least two or three times before I'm satisfied.

Here's my Monogram F-80 rescribed as I've described above:

HTH,

Tony