Jessirelli

Thanks guys!

Hi all! So I acquired 17 built models from a guy who acquired them from an estate sale for literally cheap as potting soil. He knew nothing about them and was about to hang them in his kid's room but they decided to remodel (pun intended) the house and never got around to it. I'm keeping all the planes with American markings and using the rest for airbrush practice or color testing (except maybe the yellow winged plane). But before I do I was just curious what these planes are since I mostly build 1/48 American combat jets..

Hello arcforumers, Looking for the Mountain Home (MO) tailcode. If you have it in your spares and don't intend to use it, give me a PM. Thanks!

Decals and oil wash

Thanks Gianni! More progress shots. Center pylon cut to size and added anti swing braces. Secret Tamiya recipe for Light Ghost Gray. Bombs away! Seeker heads I came this far, might as well go all out on the resin accessories. Always test your paint contrast on a spare F-15 wing before painting for real. Canopy Meanwhile, took a little break from the model to do some landscape painting. "Why?"

Thank you Mark. I did look at the F2 part, this time it's too short. I looked at every photo I could find of an F-16 carrying this pod, this one having the best angle. So what I did was modify the regular pylon to match this photo as close as I can get. For comparison here is the F2 part versus the modified F1 part. Made a better jig. I get a lot of foam from the refrigerated medicine I get every few months. I took a makita reciprosaw to it and reassembled into a box jig with a hot glue gun. Almost ready to paint! Just need

Thanks for the comments! I made a decision to get a small hobby table vice and it's worked wonders when it comes to cutting resin straight. Then I wondered if I really wanted to clamp the whole model to this vice and I was like, ehhhh... probably not. I came up with cutting up a foam block with slits for the wing tips so I can work on the underside tid bits without damaging the vertical stabilizer. Very easy to make with a standard razor saw. I had to temporarily remove the pitot probe because the glue didn't really bond. Going to have to rough it up with sandpaper and clean the joint wi

Ty crackerjazz, I went right to the grocery store's baking section for food coloring and found something called McCormick assorted food dye and egg coloring. I stripped with windex like you said and it worked great. I used about 5FL Oz of future in a pallete dish mixed with 5 drops of red/green/blue to get a neutral smoke color. Mixing those colors in equal parts comes out exactly like smoke with slightly more on the green side. Added 2 more drops of yellow and half a drop of more green. Mixed it well before dipping. Came out a little weak so I let it dry 2 hours in my food dehydrator (w

Ty Thadeus. I tried the Italeri once, not sure why I gave up on it. I read somewhere here that the number of engine petals on it is wrong or something. I ended up taking the AN/ALQ-131 from it and sticking on a Hasegawa F-16CJ. Also, for anyone that can help, I tried airbrushing Tamiya smoke/green tints on the canopy but it turned out matt. I dipped it in future again but it only improved it by 50%. I'm thinking I either need to dip it again or try all over with future and food coloring. I'm thinking the microscopic textured layer simply wont go away with another layer of wax

For the static electricity dissipators i used toothbrush bristles. At first I thought it would be a good idea to use tape to hold up the bristle and apply superglue and accelerator at the joint but this didn't work as well as i thought it would. My shakey hands kept pulling the bristle off before the superglue took hold. The tape method risks pulling off the bristle and leaving too much excess glue to cut off. Then I thought of something I never tried before, applying superglue on one part and brushing superglue accelerator the other part so that it bonds almost immediately. I also held t

Wow there's carving tape now. I remember when I took out all the dymo tape from the office supplies drawer from my dad's study table as a kid. Definitely gonna try some of this.

I'm doing up the old 1/48 Hasegawa kit because frankly, it still looks just as good as the newer and better Tamiya offering if you paint and weather it right. You have to work harder of course, so all the more impressive to see a built up Hasegawa than a Tamiya. I took inspiration from this ancient post by Piero De Santis, who did an excellent F-16CG Block 40. I basically wanted my own copy so I splurged on an overpriced Hasegawa F-16CG on ebay and also got every relevant resin details and decals available to make my own example. It's been a slow build (almost a year) due to other hobbies,

I'm currently in the process of thinning the sidewalls. How does one test fit the resin sidewalls? It seems impossible to dry fit these pieces without them falling out of place...

Thanks scotthldr. I made a mistake and put all these parts in an ultrasonic cleaner that I use for deep cleaning my airbrush. The rudder pedals couldn't take the vibration and broke into pieces. The back of the cockpit also received a hairline fracture. Luckily everything else is intact. Next time I'll use a toothbrush... The kit is a 1/72 F-16CG/CJ by Academy, cockpit set by Aires and external updates by Wolfpack designs. I'm making a CG Aviano jet.

Hi all, It's my first time doing a complete detail set with resin and photoetch parts. I'm kinda daunted by the fact that these aftermarket parts don't really show an assembly order. It's hard to understand the big picture in terms of building and painting order. I've studied all the instructions but they're mostly exploded views with arbitrary arrows pointing from one part to another. Not that I expected much knowing that these sets are usualy made in Korea and the Czech Republic. Anyone have any advice strategies for an aftermarket detailing noob? 20180414_005953