RedHeadKevin

I ordered some "Bandai" (knockoff) 1/12 droids for $21, and I just received them. The plastic isn't bad, it looks like a pretty good copy of the Bandai kits. It's branded as a "Nuclear Models" kit. But the box art is a dead giveaway that they're not authentic Bandai.

I've bought some resin stuff from Ali. It's recasts, or maybe factory seconds from brands like Aires, Legend, Live Resin, and others. The stuff I've gotten has lots of bubbles, lots of casting errors like mismatched mold halves or incomplete molds, and some other problems. I got some 1/35 stowage stuff for tanks, and out of a set of say 20 parts, maybe 12 are usable. I've gotten a couple figures as well, and they're okay. They need some work, but they're good for practicing painting. My personal policy is that I try not to spend more than $15 on anything from sites like Ali Express or Wish. It

It's a difficult model to finish. It's a big, hard Bone.

I'm trying to build a telescoped antenna for a 1/12 robot kit. I have brass tubing, but the "steps" end up looking too big, due to the thickness of the brass. I'm wondering how people model a telescoping antenna, with very subtle size changes between the telescoped sections. Of course it doesn't really have to telescope, it should just look that way. Any suggestions? I was thinking painting the thicker parts on with a coat of primer, but is there a better way?

I got them! Thanks!

Does anyone have a spare clear sprue for the Monogram/Revell/Encore 1/48 A-37 Dragonfly? If I can't get the whole sprue, I could use just the windscreen and canopy.

EDIT: Never mind.

When I heard they were discontinuing Future (or whatever they call it now,) I bought 2 bottles of it. So I should have enough for the foreseeable... future. (Sorry.) But I want to try and keep it fresh for a while. Is there a good way to preserve it in the bottles so it doesn't start drying?

I'm currently stripping the chrome off the parts from an AMT Burton Batmobile. I soaked the parts in Simple Green, which took the chrome right off, but it looks like there's a hardened, yellowed clear-coat still on the parts. It's a nasty shell, and you need a toothpick or something to get it off. Do they varnish the parts before chroming? Seriously, this undercoat, plus the chrome makes every part look like a piece of chewed bubble gum. When you strip the chrome off, they're beautiful parts. But does anyone have tips about a "varnish" on the parts?

Check out the RetroBright process for restoring yellowed plastic. They use it on old toys a lot. Basically it involves high-powered hydrogen peroxide, like 12%, and they also hit it with UV lights. That helps bleach the plastic back to white. You could use sunlight as your UV source, or blacklights. Sunlight will take longer, but it's free.

I use a Badger 360. It's a Badger 155, but with a rotating head so it can be either gravity-fed or siphon-fed from a bottle. It's crazy how little I use the bottle, and how I can use a single drop of paint in the little paint cup if I want.

Here's a detail question: How long are the hydraulic rams that lift the "canopies?" The Kitty Hawk kit doesn't have them, and knowing how long the real ones are would help posing the canopies open.

EDIT: Answered my own questions

Why in the good EFF do they mold the tail fins that way, with a seam that will be nearly impossible to fill without destroying surrounding detail?

I could see them leaving out the sprues for the interior for a cheaper version of the kit, but you'd have to mold all new fuselage halves to have the ramp and doors closed. Ideally they'd be molded closed by default, and you have to cut off the doors and ramp if you wanted them open. I'm betting that the cargo bay will only be a few pieces (floor, ceiling, and walls) anyway, similar to the old Italeri C-130s. So not including it wouldn't make that much of a difference in the complexity of the kit.