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Converting Revell 1/32 bf109g to bf109f?


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Hi all

Just wondering if any of you folks know if its possible to convert revell's new(ish) offering to an F model without to much fiddling around. I've read that they are quite similar but I need some expert advice on what I'd need to chop off/add on etc. Of course i could just buy Hasegawa's but im a bit of a cheap skate ;)

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You'd be much better off "sanity wise" just spending the money on the Hasegawa 109F. For the $20-$30 you'll save in currency, you'll lose in putty, plastic and time. We won't even mention additional parts that will most likely be required.

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You'd be much better off "sanity wise" just spending the money on the Hasegawa 109F. For the $20-$30 you'll save in currency, you'll lose in putty, plastic and time. We won't even mention additional parts that will most likely be required.

Thanks for the reply, and yes, after doing some research tonight it looks like ALOT of work just to save a little cash....darn

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Hi all

Just wondering if any of you folks know if its possible to convert revell's new(ish) offering to an F model without to much fiddling around. I've read that they are quite similar but I need some expert advice on what I'd need to chop off/add on etc. Of course i could just buy Hasegawa's but im a bit of a cheap skate ;)/>

The Revell's a mid/late 109 (it's kitted as a G-6 or G-10 and can be built as a G-14), all of which are rather significantly different from an F. If they ever do a G-2, that would be a relatively simple conversion to an F-4 but as it stands today the Hasegawa F is the (much) better option.

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But G-10 is from Erla plant and have specific hood with one "half moon" bulge on one side and straight panel on another... When you need for standard "bulged" G-10 you must look for oldest Hasegawa relase...

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But G-10 is from Erla plant and have specific hood with one "half moon" bulge on one side and straight panel on another... When you need for standard "bulged" G-10 you must look for oldest Hasegawa relase...

Thank you! I will not be doing a g-10 then as I've just brought the revell kit! My understanding is that a g-14 is able to built from the revell kit though.. am I right?

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Yes, you can build a G-14 from Revell kit, but not from G-10 "Erla" - you must use a Bf 109G-6 "Early/Late". G-10 "Erla" have new tool one piece fuselage, Bf 109G-6 have fuselage from two pieces (airframe and engine hood) - and on internet (i not sure - in Aerorama or LSP ?) is manual for converting of G-6 to G-14. If i remember you must used a early canon cover (for Mk. 108 ?), new tall wooden fin,erla haube cockpit & another type of MG cover and "few little upgrades" but yes - in box is all what you need for G-14. Only under wing gunpods you must bought separate...

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But G-10 is from Erla plant and have specific hood with one "half moon" bulge on one side and straight panel on another... When you need for standard "bulged" G-10 you must look for oldest Hasegawa relase...

Just wondering what 'bulge' you are referring to? Do you mean this? (red circle)

First image is G-10, second is G-6

41d1680b-e8f5-4ec7-b183-f10465748e9f.jpg

1a351d73-afe1-4973-a00d-a6e26d2dafed.jpg

Other than this bulge, the slightly smaller radiator and a few other details I cant really see much difference between a G-6 and G-10 from the drawings I have. (I really want to do a G-10 now as I have just ordered decals! :rolleyes: }

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Hello ,

The G-14 can have the small bulges as the G-10 on your pics or not and it can have the deeper oil cooler housing to. but you can take the Revell Me 109G-6 and do one G-14 out of the box if you want,the G-14 had the standard Gun beules as the G-6 so that's no problem. for a G-10 standard go with the Hasegawa G-10, the Revell Me 109G-10 Erla is an Erla built a totaly different.

Cheers

Boris

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Yes, you can build a G-14 from Revell kit, but not from G-10 "Erla" - you must use a Bf 109G-6 "Early/Late". G-10 "Erla" have new tool one piece fuselage, Bf 109G-6 have fuselage from two pieces (airframe and engine hood) - and on internet (i not sure - in Aerorama or LSP ?) is manual for converting of G-6 to G-14. If i remember you must used a early canon cover (for Mk. 108 ?), new tall wooden fin,erla haube cockpit & another type of MG cover and "few little upgrades" but yes - in box is all what you need for G-14. Only under wing gunpods you must bought separate...

Go here for a nice tweak list on the basic G-6 kit and also all the info needed on what is required to build a G-14 from the Revell kit

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=46590

Edit - here is another good review with some very useful tips on the Revell kit:

http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/1238-132-messerschmitt-bf-109g-6-early-and-late/

Edited by 11bee
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Go here for a nice tweak list on the basic G-6 kit and also all the info needed on what is required to build a G-14 from the Revell kit

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=46590

Woah that is a comprehensive (and quite scary) list of tweaks! Great link thank you, think it will come in handy

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Thanks for your comments guys. After doing abit more reading + comparing the revell kit to images ive found, I really think its quite possible to convert into a G-10 (seems quite straight forward to) so that's what im gonna do (well TRY). Interestingly the new barracuda decal sheet (Barracuda Studios BC32145) states that the revell kit can be made into a G-10...

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No. Gustav G-6 has typical "beule" (blisters) for it's MG magazines... And standard G-10 have asymetrical hood with one big blister on booth sides (this is for compresor i mean...). And "Erla Plant" have hood in one side straight (as Bf 109F) and in another is this typical half moon blister...

Look on this - this is standard G-10 (1/32 Hasegawa) http://www.hyperscale.com/2008/features/bf109g10yellow532cw_1.htm

& here is G-10 "Erla Plant": http://hyperscale.com/2014/galleries/bf109g10erla32dw_1.htm

Simple: Erla haven't big hump before windscreen...

For me is Erla most attractive because it is last "Karaya 1" - last "mount" of Erich Hartmann and was based in Czech territory in Německý Brod (Deutschbrod)-today Havlíčkův Brod airfield in last months of WW II...

Edited by AlCZ
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Hello,

I think that you are mixing up the Revell Me109G-6 with The Revell Me109 G-10 Erla ,if you have an Revell Me109 G-6 you have to do major work on it to make an G-10 and even more work to Make a regular G-10 out of Revells Me109G-10 Erla.

Cheers

Boris

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No. Gustav G-6 has typical "beule" (blisters) for it's MG magazines... And standard G-10 have asymetrical hood with one big blister on booth sides (this is for compresor i mean...). And "Erla Plant" have hood in one side straight (as Bf 109F) and in another is this typical half moon blister...

Look on this - this is standard G-10 (1/32 Hasegawa) http://www.hyperscale.com/2008/features/bf109g10yellow532cw_1.htm

& here is G-10 "Erla Plant": http://hyperscale.com/2014/galleries/bf109g10erla32dw_1.htm

Simple: Erla haven't big hump before windscreen...

For me is Erla most attractive because it is last "Karaya 1" - last "mount" of Erich Hartmann and was based in Czech territory in Německý Brod (Deutschbrod)-today Havlíčkův Brod airfield in last months of WW II...

Thank you so much for pointing this out. I FINALLY see the hump and the other differences! Its not so easy to see the differences in the drawings that I have. Never realised how varied bf 109s could be and how potentially complicated modelling one could be!!

Edited by zaktwist
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Hello,

I think that you are mixing up the Revell Me109G-6 with The Revell Me109 G-10 Erla ,if you have an Revell Me109 G-6 you have to do major work on it to make an G-10 and even more work to Make a regular G-10 out of Revells Me109G-10 Erla.

Cheers

Boris

Thanks Boris and yes you are right I was thinking of the revell G-6 model! Don't know what id do without the advice from people on this forum, saved me a lot of hassle!

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