talan2000

PPP thanks for the specific info on how to use the stuff!

And Jerry (k5ikl (I detect some HAM radio in there)) comes in For The Win! Many thanks to Jerry for sharing his own set of Bavarian Bundesluftwaffe decals with me to replace these tired tatered ones! Thanks again! Now I may put some of that decal solution on one or two to see if it will help restore them! And thanks also for the sunlight tip - can't really hurt at this point Todd

Hi Guys I just got a big box of eBay purchases of "vintage" models. Apparently that means stored in the attic under a leaky roof. Not happy. Sadly the biggest disappointment is a Revell large scale RF-4E (1/32) with an awesome Immelman / Bavarian scheme. When I opened the ratty looking box it appears that the sheet has been water damaged. I've scanned the sheet (one of the blue checkers is torn but the scanner kinda hides it). The lettering is yellowed. I've searched for replacements to no avail - at least not with this scheme. I could bail and make an entirely new F-4 (and I don't r

Thanks Guys Any thread with "vulcanization" lights my fires :) I'll be printing out your tips Joel - I just used some "zapagap" CA glue to try to fill the horrible seam on my Monogram T-28. I used CA accelerator immediately after applying it and then sanded it off. I think perhaps that I should skip the accelerator although the wanna-be chemist in my was amazed at the instantaneous crystalization of the CA when sprayed... I have Squadron white and Tamiya white putties. I just was disappointed with how fast the squadron stuff set up and was chalky. Thinning it with thinner seems a good idea

Thanks again for the additional feedback. I think my technique for applying the Extra Thin needs some improvement. Joel - thanks for listing clear steps. I think I've been trying to "paint" on too much of the glue at once and it is drying before the parts are mated together. That or drenching the closed seam/join line. I guess I'll use the CA for trying to fill seams - I've been playing with that lately after doing a mediocre job with Squadron white putty...I resolve myself to learn, be patient and improve with each build but it can be frustrating journeying into the modeling wilderness

thanks for this tip - I recently aquired a number of very vintage kits (60-70s) and the decals look pretty bad. I'll pick up a bottle of Liquid decal film and give it a shot! Todd

Ok, thanks for the tip. I seem to have read a number of times about people using CA on some parts and not on others (all plastic). I haven't used any photo etch yet, though I have some kits with it now, so I'll definitely be sure to use the CA on the etch and on the resin bits. Todd

Hi All, I'm a newbie diligently working not to glue my fingers to my new kits as you may have seen in my recent posts :) I've read a ton of stuff recently and I'm not sure WHEN I'm supposed to use which type of adhesive. Specifically - I've left behind the testors tube of glue that leaves long strings in its wake and moved on to Tamiya extra thin. This seems to work great for attaching small pieces but less well at doing things like merging upper and lower wings together etc. I read of people using Super Glue/ CA but I'm not at all clear as to when one should use one or the other. I've al

wow that's really nice -- I'll keep my eye out for silly putty now!

Thanks, The sad thing is a have two packs of "blue-tac" or its associates and just reached for the clay...oh well lesson learned. Free handing the pattern seems the way to go regardless. So what DO people use Sculpy for other than stuffing inside of wheel well doors to keep them from falling in while gluing??? Todd

Hey Guys, I'm inching forward on my first build, experiencing various disasters and hopefully learning a lot. I wanted to try to create a "soft edge" camo pattern on my Revell 1/48 MiG 29 and had seen a pic of a modeler using clay "ropes" laid across the model to create a pattern that an airbrush would presumably flow over causing the soft edge without having to explicitly free hand the whole thing. Sooo I opened up a square pack of sculpy clay, just happened to be black, and rolled out a few ropes and laid them atop my nicely primed and base coated a/c. Immediately I knew I had made a mist

Wow. That does sound like something out of the original Indiana Jones! Thanks for the recipe w/x21 I now recall that's why I bought it! Just forgot and applied it "neat". I didn't realize that the future/x21 mix itself had to be thinned with the alcohol. Thanks for that. I'll mix some up and spray the inside of some wings!

Wow. Thanks so much. I guess I just missed it by 65! Too much late night reading I guess and I got that scrambled. Since I have to buy something new (and prefer acrylic due to fumes) what would you recommend as the best/easiest to use dull coat option? Is it still xf-86 or something else?

Hi guys, Newbie returning to modeling 30 yrs after the last one...anyhow, very diligently working on a Revell 1:48 MiG-29 as my starter model practicing all these new techniques -- cutting sprue instead of twisting with fingers, sanding, using washes :) Anyhow - I was very pleased with my newbie cockpit after using a pastel chalk dust/water/future wash...it was just a bit shiny so I decided to apply a dull coat. Having read about Tamiya X-21 I opened up a well shaken bottle of it and applied it with a brush to the cockpit ready to sigh a sigh of contentment...when within 2-3 minutes the e