Remy130

I see the website still has this as "coming" Is it close? Thanks

I may pick up one to cannibalize for a Laughlin T-37

I did AFROTC and taught Naval pilot training as an AF pilot. I would go directly to the school Navy ROTC unit, only THEY can tell you what they can do for you. AVOID recruiters like a used car salesman. In the end, you can fly longer as a pilot in the USAF during your career. But Navy/USMC has more flight slots and a better chance of getting in. The Naval pilot training is also considered "big boy" as in you just know your stuff, show up, fly and go home. Whereas the USAF keeps you in the classroom all day 12hrs a day, forever grinding down your morale. Of course how well you do in prima

Keith i will try to match some colors this week. Each set is almost different at my work. Some bluish others grayish. In the end be sure to realize they are fore of a faded camo than woodland so go lighter on the colors.

Some hardcore ipms guys i know scrub off raised lines and pencil in new ones. I personally like recesed for the ability to fill em in with a wash. Gotta comprimise time to build with actually finishing a model. I wonder where molds will be in 20 years.

My father had a mold engraving and mold making business. I got to see some models made, sprues etc, lots of mattell toys and parts growing up. As others said, the pantograph went off a pattern, in the odd chance it jumped or you cut something wrong, you had to reweld, and then recut the mold. painstaking and time consuming. To manually cut a mold with recessed lines would consume so much time and effort the producer would never see a profit from the kit. If I were to make a mold Id surely go for raised panel line out of ease. But given digital automated methods of mold cutting today, r

ahhh the Damien, I see the buno now. I am thinking of the same setup but for years have been using ROUND metal rods, and as such the models never stay put. The square rod idea NEVER entered my thick head! You painted the base blue and just glued or taped the patch down? The most Ive done is take the die cast postage stamp model power Dyess 39th 130s and decal over the tail flash making it blue for retiring coworkers. One day I will finish this 130! . . . .Edit, I seem to have damaged and lost my top HF antenna masts. Anybody with a partial kit out there?

here is the PURPLE 39th + 40th tail flash on the wing king bird. New J model w me and my kid in it. look at all that glass!

Thats great work Steve. I flew Hs in the 40th from 02-05. I have been working on my 1/72 Italeri kit since 2002. Its STILL not done but will get there. I have the decals made but still need to make the external H AC packs that the Italeri kit lacks. I am gonna model mine extremely dirty, as the Herks tend to get in OEF OIF. I am unsure when the tail flash changed but here's a few shots of mine at the time. Rem Bagram at night Dirt at Dyess

what seam filler are you using? What is the different colored one by the cockpit? I am building the zvezda 1/72 Mi-35 and its tough lining up the mulitple fuselage cockpit parts. I have my share of filling to do. I cant wait to see your finished job.

Any chance at all in 1/72? I like to keep my Austin scales weird.

Afghanistan? Should be MultiCam. at a 1/72 scale, mostly green with some tiny white dots and dark washes/shading.

I saw the Reaper decals you made and they look great. Seeing as how most predator decals are already 90% done for all aircraft, how hard would it be to just add OH and CA tail numbers and flashes for 48/72 scales? I can help with the details. Thanks, Remy