TheRealMrEd

A little late, but here it is! Not so many this year as last, but some that I really wanted in the collection, For those interested, the build threads offer detailed instruction about how the models were built, so that others could, if desired, build these often rare models themselves. When needed, artwork is provided for your use. The artwork part also applies to some RFI's, which are only photos of the completed model, due to reasons of simplicity, sameness, or just that documenting their build would probably not add to the general pool of knowledge. First up, the

G-S Hypo Cement (watch cement). Dries quick, smooths with alcohol, and can be sanded when hardened, or worn down with 93% alcohol, Ed

May I remind all, that Parafilm "M" is your friend when BMF are in the works... Ed

Hello again. Back this time with some finished pictures of a project I've been dragging along on for some time. Years ago, I bought this Anigrand XP-49 kit on-line, as a used kit. It had some problems. The boom halves were badly warped, the landing gear doors and nose gear leg were missing, as were the mass balancers for the elevator. So, I started slowly sawing, slicing, bending and scrounging replacements parts,in this case from the same old MPC P-38F kit that I scrounged other parts from for my XP-38 prototype build. Only the nose gear door had to be fashioned from an

Thanks! If you haven't visited the build thread, all of the various differences (that I could find) between the XP and other variants are listed. Ed

Well, after much chopping, filling sanding and other general mayhem, this combination of the RS Models P-322 1 and the MPC P-38F models have been beaten into a semblance of the very first Lightning, the XP-38. For those who might be interested in the hows and whys, the build thread is HERE. The pics: Thanks for looking in. Ed Quote

All very nice, and certainly an eclectic assortment! Ed

Thanks for the kind replies, folks! Sorry to have taken so long to respond, but it's been a busy January. Hope you've all had a happy so far... Ed

Either Weld-ON #3 works fine on plastics. Reminds me of the old Amroid thin cement that I was using until they went away and I found this. Use it on all my plastic models for over 10 years now. I'd be leary of using it on clear parts, as it will eat into them as fast as the other plastic. You can use one of the tiny tube dispensers like a "toucn 'n flow". I would recommend G _ S watch cement for sticking on clear parts. It sets up pretty quickly and can be smoothed with rubbing 90% alcohol when dry. Ed

I have dipped canopies in Pledge/Future for years. Also, if you hold the CA seam up, most of the fumes will rise, sparing the canopy fog mention. However, I had a times after the model was completed had grunge appear out of the depths and stick to the inside of the canopy. I sometimes drill tiny holes through the nose ear well through the floor of the cockpit, and using a hypodermic or eyedropper to inject Windex w/ammonia into the hole. The hole model can be swished around, and usually the crud will wash free ans sink to the bottom of the cockpit floor where it can't be seen. The Window

Well, time for the usual year-end roundup. 2021 has been an odd year, but I got some more done: First up, the 1/72 F4H-1 Phantom Prototype conversion, using no aftermarket parts: A few challenges, but worth it. For those interested, more pics HERE which will then link to the build thread proper. Same process will be repeated for all the models... Next up, the Curtiss A-18 Shrike resin build: More pics HERE Next, the F3H-1N DEMON conversion:

YW Gene. Sorry not to have responded sooner, but the end-of-year has been a bit hectic! ED

While it's a 1/72 scale model versus the subject 1/48 scale, this model was built from a Hasegawa F4 kit only -- no aftermarket parts, resin, or vacuform. All out of the Hasegawa box, plus some home-made decals: Exacting, detailed instructions and needed artwork (in 1/72 scale!) can be found HERE, in the build thread. I don't know why you couldn't do the same thing in 1/48th! Ed

Testor's ELO (easy lift off) paint remover is your friend for enamels... Ed

Parafilm "M" is your friend! After a slight coating of Alclad II Aqua Gloss, I even use it to mask over applied decals: Before After Ed