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Filling seams with White glue


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Hi,

After 45 years of scale modeling, I can tell you I have struggled with filling seams like anybody else. I've used many different materials to get this basic model building task done. Anybody that has sanded super-glue (cyanoacrylate)filled seams knows that too much sanding is not a good thing. Softer plastic can be eroded away before the fill material, leaving an undesirable depression next to the seam. Delicate panel lines can also be entirely destroyed by this method.

I have found that in some instances a bead of white glue in the seam can solve the problem without any sanding at all. This will preserve the delicate details we want to preserve. I just finished a Tamiya 32nd scale F4 Phantom II and as most modelers who have built this kit know, the angle (about 25 degrees) that Tamiya would have us glue the wing section in place is too much. It should have a dihedral of about half as much (12.5 degrees) which then leaves a small crack along the parts. I applied the white glue and the wing-fold hinge detail was preserved using this material. Any other filler would have destroyed the fine details.

After application, an immediate wipe with a damp cotton bud (Q-tip) will remove any excess glue. This type of glue has a tendency to shrink so it may require repeated applications. You can paint over this material with any sort of paint. It won't work for every situation but having this technique in your bag of tricks is certainly going to save you time.

Ed Okun

Edited by frogman13
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Hi,

After 45 years of scale modeling, I can tell you I have struggled with filling seams like anybody else. I've used many different materials to get this basic model building task done. Anybody that has sanded super-glue (cyanoacrylate)filled seams knows that too much sanding is not a good thing. Softer plastic can be eroded away before the fill material, leaving an undesirable depression next to the seam. Delicate panel lines can also be entirely destroyed by this method.

I have found that in some instances a bead of white glue in the seam can solve the problem without any sanding at all. This will preserve the delicate details we want to preserve. I just finished a Tamiya 32nd scale F4 Phantom II and as most modelers who have built this kit know, the angle (about 25 degrees) that Tamiya would have us glue the wing section in place is too much. It should have a dihedral of about half as much (12.5 degrees) which then leaves a small crack along the parts. I applied the white glue and the wing-fold hinge detail was preserved using this material. Any other filler would have destroyed the fine details.

After application, an immediate wipe with a damp cotton bud (Q-tip) will remove any excess glue. This type of glue has a tendency to shrink so it may require repeated applications. You can paint over this material with any sort of paint. It won't work for every situation but having this technique in your bag of tricks is certainly going to save you time.

Ed Okun

I do white glue+swipe method on every canopy line, I am afraid that while airbrushing paint will find its way into cockpit....just irational fear, but I do that just in case :-)

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This Vallejo Plastic Putty will make your life much easier than using white glue. It is slightly thicker than white glue, easy to apply, doesn't shrink as much, and can be wiped with a damp cotton bud:

val_plastic_putty.jpg

Cleans up with plain water.

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Hi,

After 45 years of scale modeling, I can tell you I have struggled with filling seams like anybody else. I've used many different materials to get this basic model building task done. Anybody that has sanded super-glue (cyanoacrylate)filled seams knows that too much sanding is not a good thing. Softer plastic can be eroded away before the fill material, leaving an undesirable depression next to the seam. Delicate panel lines can also be entirely destroyed by this method.

Ed Okun

Here's a valuable tip if you're having trouble sanding CA glue: Sand it within 2 hours of application- the sooner, the better. I use CA glue most of the time to fill seams because it's strong, won't crack, won't shrink and it dries instantly with accelerator. Sanded within minutes of application, it's almost as soft as the plastic. Another advantage of CA glue when used as a filler is that you can re-scribe seams destroyed by sanding, while putties tend to crack with a scriber, leaving a ragged edge. It's also clear, so it can be used in other applications where you don't want to see the join.

White glue works in certain situations like the one you describe, but it does shrink quite a bit and is quite soft, so sanding is tough because it tears rather than cuts. Bottom line is that CA glue, putty and white glue all have their strengths and weaknesses, depending on the application. I use them all.

Cheers,

Chuck

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After application, an immediate wipe with a damp cotton bud (Q-tip) will remove any excess glue

I use an old damp paint brush with a fine tip. It gives me more control than a Q-tip, and instead of wiping any excess glue away, the excess glue gets "painted" into the seam which helps with the shrinkage.

David.

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Normally I use tamiya epoxi putty for seams. But recently I've discovered Perfect plastic putty. And I must say, It is great.

Dries fast, sands really easily, and when set, it can be also removed with normal tap water. Give it a try, you won't regret it.

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I do white glue+swipe method on every canopy line, I am afraid that while airbrushing paint will find its way into cockpit....just irational fear, but I do that just in case :-)

Nothing irrational about that fear at all. I built an Me109 once that ended up with a tan splotch on the inside of the canopy from that very thing, grrr

Chris

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For small seams I prefer to use Vallejo Acrylic putty. Just great stuff. I apply it along the seam, give it a min to set up, then wipe it down lightly with a damp Qtip. Usually a 2nd application is necessary. When I need to use CA glue, I use Chuck's method. It does work. I use an accelerator, give it an hour to cure, then carefully sand. I'm still old school, and end up using Green stuff for most applications that need shaping as well as filling.

Joel

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I mostly use CA, spray it with accelerator, and sand immediately (as in, I clean off the remaining accelerator, put down the paper towel, and pick up the files/sandpaper). When you sand right away after using CA with accelerator, the CA is slightly softer than the plastic, so you can take the excess off easily. Scribing it is also very easy at this stage. A day later, not so much, so I don't procrastinate. I have Vallejo putty and use it on occasion. Same goes fro Squadron green and Tamiya Epoxy putty.

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I have some of the "Perfect Plastic Putty" - but it's not perfect in one regard. It doesn't like being wet. Soooo, if you like to wet-sand, be aware that PPP won't react well.

I like PPP, too -- it's just easy to lightly sand/wipe of with water with no risk of lost to surface detail. I think it's far better than white glue but just as vulnerable to water.

I'm thinking of sealing with Future or some clear enamel to reduce it from disintegrating while washing the model for final paint.

While CA is great for seam filling -- it's relatively difficult to sand this stuff even if I start sanding 5-10 minutes after application. Of course in some situations, CA is superior; especially, if you need to re-scribe surface detail.

Some putties like Tamiya's White Putty seems too harsh for soft plastics. So, I stopped using it on Airfix kits.

It's nice to have so many options nowadays!

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