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1/48 Hasegawa F-4EJ Phantom


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Next build is a 1/48 Phantom. I'm going for a colourful JASDF F-4EJ

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Might chuck some aftermarket at this, but then again much of this may go back in the box.

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First problem - True Details details intakes. These aren't the full length but the idea to simulate the internal depth and make it a drop fit was good. Pity they are too short by 10mm.. I have 2 sets and they are unusable IMHO. Stay away from them is my advice.

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Edited by a4s4eva
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Ok, it's going to be intake blanks again for the intakes... C'Mon Academy do the F-4E/F/G/EJ/and RF-4 series.....

This is the kit pit with Wolfpack IP. Old school drybrushing with a Vallejo light grey. Details are picked out with Vallejo paints and a fine brush. Nothing flash but good enough for this build.

(sorry Zach these are the best shots I've got)

F-4EJ-005.jpg

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Would you consider full length intakes?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-48-F-4E-F-G-EJ-PHANTOM-SEAMLESS-INTAKE-SET-for-Hasegawa-/272042177574?hash=item3f56fa3426:g:f1EAAOSwMmBV59nq

There are others that do these too, I believe. D-Mold?

I've used the Rhino set, and they work well.

M

I do not want to steer away from the build thread at all, but I have a question regarding this: Isn't Rhino Modelworks on ebay the guy that was selling knockoff intakes from like DMold, Cutting Edge, etc.?

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Would you consider full length intakes?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-48-F-4E-F-G-EJ-PHANTOM-SEAMLESS-INTAKE-SET-for-Hasegawa-/272042177574?hash=item3f56fa3426:g:f1EAAOSwMmBV59nq

There are others that do these too, I believe. D-Mold?

I've used the Rhino set, and they work well.

M

I would, but these landed to me in Australia, would cost more close to $50 AUD. Not worth it for this build IMHO.

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Couldn't be bothered with a resin cockpit so figured I'd use the PE and add some detail. Is it accurate Nope, but it busy's the area up enough

F-4EJ-007.jpg

Looks good enough under paint. And you won't see much with the seats in and the fuselage together anyway

F-4EJ-008.jpg

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Next was the Aires auxiliary air intakes The kit has nothing here so these add some nice detail that you''ll never see. I can't rememberer what they cost but I'm not sure I'd bother again

These were pretty simple to fit but you do have to trim some bits from the underside of the Fuselage. Much of these bits were going to have to go anyway to fit the Aires Exhausts

F-4EJ-009.jpg

F-4EJ-013.jpg

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Nice job installing those Aires air intakes. On my Academy F4-B I ended up making them myself. I tend to prefer to add external details over internal/cockpit details just because they can easily be seen on the model even in my display cabinet.

Joel

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those sidewalls are really impressive70.gif(your enhancements really makes the difference)

i remember having experienced trouble with wolfpack rear instrument panel when have come the time to close fuselage (or was it when i try to fit that middle canopy frame on place...)

Edited by mingwin
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The fuselage went together without to much trouble. I re-scribed most of the fuselage as lots of the detail is pretty soft. Not surprising considering the kits age.

After cleaning up the seams I fitted the Wolfpack nose. Fit of this was pretty good. The nose does need a some re-scribing and a couple coats of primer. I've also added some of the Eduard PE

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next job was to cut out the area for the upper red light, and replace it with some red resin which was then sanded and polished to shape. The upper pitot probe was replaced with brass tube.

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I then added some styrene strip to the sides of the fuselage to give the wings something to glue too.

F-4EJ-014.jpg

Edited by a4s4eva
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  • 2 weeks later...

Very nice attention to all those little details. The tail light was an afterthought on my Academy build, that I ended up regretting not dealing with during the building stage. A lesson that I'll never forget. And all that Eduard PE really adds just that little extra that will help to make the model Pop as a display piece.

Joel

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This is my 2nd Hasegawa F-4 and again I’ve used the SAC undercarriage. Not because the detail is better than the kit legs, because it’s not, it’s worse in fact but for strength. The kit is quite heavy when finished and I've seen a few that have bowed over the years. The wheels are from Royale Resin, IMHO still the best aftermarket F-4 wheels. I've added the bits from the Eduard PE set.

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I've also had to scratch build the wing tips. I really should have used the proper F-4EJ Kai kit as a base for this build as it has different wing and fuselage sprues (Although they are the same letter) . This isn't my best effort but it'll be good enough

F-4EJ-023.jpg

Edited by a4s4eva
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I started with the NATO black for the thin black line and then masked it out with thin tape. Next was the lime green, Tamiya X 15. I masked it all out then pondered the grey’s.

The instructions have FS:36320 for the dark grey (upper surfaces) and FS:36375 (lower lighter surfaces).

But a lot of the images have appear to show much lighter greys than those two, that said there are images that show darker colours.

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After making some paper masks for the tops of the wings, I tried FS 26440, a light grey used on the JASDF F-1, but it looked to light. So after much thought, and looking through images I used Mr Color FS 36375 (308) as the base coat and mixed up lighter and darker shades of this. It’s still not quite right but it will do. This build wasn’t supposed to be anything more than a bit of fun with a colourful subject so I’ve decided to go with this and move on.

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I sprayed the light grey first, then the dark grey mixtures. I used my 0.2mm Sparmax airbrush to freehand all the light patches on the fuselage using photos as references. I did go back and forth multiple times until I was happy. In the end I loaded my usual 0.3mm Sparmax with the one colour and the 0.2mm with the other and chopped and changed until I was happy.

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Pulling of the masking I realised that the Light green is not a colour that dries quickly (or it remains soft for ages, something I’ve seen from time to time with other Tamiya gloss colours) as the masking tape had marked the finish. I’m going to have to sand of the marks and repaint it last.

F-4EJ-030.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Paints done/ Mr Color for the greys Tamiya for the green and black and Alclad over AS 11 for the metal.

The green was awful to paint, didn't cover well and took ages to dry. Many touch ups were required

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