Jump to content

USMC Dragon UH-1N Build


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Just finishing up my Academy UH-1C build and wanted to start a blog of the next one, the Dragon UH-1N. I've been collecting bits to do this one for some time so now think I have all I need to begin. I will be using the Dragon UH-1N, the Cobra Company fleet upgrade and weapons sets, AMS FOD covers, Werners Wings fuel bladder, MAW November Huey decals and will probably be using a few bits from the Eduard UH-1C sets and a "donor" Academy UH-1C. - And probably a few more bits I've forgotten I bought !

I know this is a nasty kit, and there will probably be a new tool Huey on the horizon soon, but rather than sell all of this I have decided to get on with it.

First order of business is to get rid of all of those golf ball rivets and, because I want to show the interior without any soundproofing, I need to scratchbuild the interior. (more of that in a moment).

This is where I am up to so far:

Before.

20151110_121608_zpsfafhxbdx.jpg

Most of the rivets off and started on the interior.

20151110_121859_zpslug649dk.jpg

With a little help from Archer surface details: Not 100% accurate but will pretty much be hidden by the minigun ammo box anyway (which, judging by the photo below, should not be where I have put it.) I am also doing a little experimenting with floor tread plate to try and replicate the cabin floor.

20151115_145116_zpsdna4rabq.jpg

I found this great image on the internet which shows the weapons configuration I want to use, albeit mirrored. I want to use the fuel bladder and .50 cal on the Port side and the Minigun on the Starboard.

US_Navy_071212-M-4213L-014_zpsx6t9vbbs.jpg

So hopefully some of you Huey experts can help me out a little here ? I have Ray's excellent walkaround CD's so have a few pictures of the fuel bladder (which it looks like one of the gunners is sitting on?). I also have a few good pictures of the DAS mount but does anyone have any other images that may be helpful with regard to the weapons mounts and the minigun ammo box ? Looks like the other gunner is sat on an ammo box too, would that be usual ?

Rest assured I will have lots of questions along the way so thanks in advance for any info you can provide.

Thanks

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Lupus ? It will be something a little like this, although this bird has a different sensor arrangement to the one I am doing. Really looking forward to trying to replicate that grimy grey look:

US_Navy_081017-N-2183K-014_A_UH-1N_Twin_Huey_helicopter_gunship_approaches_the_flight_deck_of_the_amphibious_assault_ship_US_zpskw7fpiyu.jpg

Gino, Rod - Thanks guys, hope to post some more updates soon. :D/>

Andy

Edited by andy evans
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a shot of mine that I completed a couple of years ago, with Fireball's decals.

IMG_3918.jpg

Once you get rid of the outside rivets, it's not a horrid kit, not good, but not horrid either.

Looking forward to seing yours progress!

Cheers

H.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The general shape of the nose is wrong, its too flat on the upper side and too roundy, there was a guy who cutted the nose and flip it over. You should try to buy the cobra company nose, it is not perfect but way better than the kit one.

Rod.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Rod. I have the cobra nose and after spending some time with a contour gauge comparing them I can't really see much difference. Certainly doesn't look different enough to cut off the kit one and replace it.

Andy,

Check my response to this question regarding Gino's Inafa build. The biggest issue is the slope of the windscreen, which is way too steep on the Dragon kit.

Ray

Inafa build

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ray,

Thanks for the link, much appreciated.

I already caught that the Cobra B-pillar was a copy of the Eduard set from a C version (relatively easy scratchbuild fix) and the upper glazing was incorrectly positioned (not so easy but doable)

I see exactly what you mean on the windshield angle, and not an easy fix either I think. I just overlaid the Dragon/Panda doors over a spare set of Academy UH-1C doors and the difference in the angle is very noticeable. I assume that the Dragon UH-1D/H is incorrect in profile too then ?

The more I look at this kit the more I am thinking I may just abandon it and move on - or I may just do a quick build and use it for painting practice. Either way, I appreciate the help Ray, thanks.

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

The B pillar in the Cobra Company sets has been revised. Any set purchased after July 2015 has the new one.

Chris M

Hey Chris,

do you have a pic at all of the new B-pillars?

Cheers

Chris B

Edited by UH-1Mad
Link to post
Share on other sites

Ray,

Thanks for the link, much appreciated.

I already caught that the Cobra B-pillar was a copy of the Eduard set from a C version (relatively easy scratchbuild fix) and the upper glazing was incorrectly positioned (not so easy but doable)

I see exactly what you mean on the windshield angle, and not an easy fix either I think. I just overlaid the Dragon/Panda doors over a spare set of Academy UH-1C doors and the difference in the angle is very noticeable. I assume that the Dragon UH-1D/H is incorrect in profile too then ?

The more I look at this kit the more I am thinking I may just abandon it and move on - or I may just do a quick build and use it for painting practice. Either way, I appreciate the help Ray, thanks.

Andy

Andy,

Sorry if i was a killjoy. Yep, all Italeri 1/48 and Panda/Dragon 1/35 UH-1D/H kits have the same issue with the windscreen angle. It's not as noticeable in 1/48 though. As you say, no easy fix for this.

Ray

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not at all Ray, I easily get bogged down trying to get things right but sometimes there is no choice. Just looks like an awful lot of work - time I could be using doing building else.

As I said, I may just finish this quickly and try out some grimy grey paint techniques. I will post progress whichever route.

Cheers,

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not at all Ray, I easily get bogged down trying to get things right but sometimes there is no choice. Just looks like an awful lot of work - time I could be using doing building else.

As I said, I may just finish this quickly and try out some grimy grey paint techniques. I will post progress whichever route.

Cheers,

Andy

I wouldn't give up on it so quickly. It can still be made into a very nice model that looks like a UH-1N. The profile may not be perfect, but, in my opinion, it isn't enough to not build it. I say keep at it, you are off to a great start.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well after a couple of days thinking about this, I have decided that I could get hit by a bus waiting for a new tool kit so I am going to press on and do this. Don't consider myself a quitter but my desire to achieve the impossible sometimes gets the better of me.

Anyway, enough waffle. The floor template here has been overlaid onto the floor, got the dims from the -10 manual and it flags up that there is also something dimensionally wrong with the width of the cabin too, if the tech manual is right the cabin is too narrow. Fear not, I shall do a few tweaks to the non-essential tie downs and make it fit as best I can (not like I am trying to line up any seating).

20151126_212308_zpsasshlm0b.jpg

What it also highlighted is that I have made the transmission housing approximately 5mm too wide and too long, so this is going to be rebuilt and cast in resin for any future projects I may be daft enough to attempt. This may seem extreme but there is a silver lining here, I was looking at the -D/H model for the details, this is slightly different from the -N model so this gives me the opportunity to rectify that too.

UH-1D/H

DSCF2879_zpsqfzjja9g.jpg

UH-1N (note the curved housings in the upper corners and the slightly different panel layout)

P6170150_zpsllbx8bvn.jpg

Whilst on a plasticard frenzy, I have made a start on remaking the B-Pillars, taking the whole structure over the top to incorporate the overhead framing. This is just the front half here and I have left a cross-piece at the bottom just to give it stability whilst I make the rear half.

20151126_212242_zpsq034xaok.jpg

More soon hopefully !!

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Gino, looking forward to continuing with this, there is a lot to do to make this the way I want it though.

As I mentioned earlier, I messed up by copying the dimensions of an aftermarket interior part instead of relying on real data, hence my transmission is too big. As a consequence I have re-built the basic structure with a view to casting the pieces in resin to make life easier for another long-body UH-1. When this is done if anyone wants a copy let me know and we can sort something out.

Anyway, here is the re-built rear cabin ;

20151130_202539_zps5qlwoirt.jpg

Now this is the bit where I ask a big favour from you guys :-) If anyone has access to a long body Huey, I would really, REALLY appreciate you checking a few dimensions for me. What I need is outlined in the pictures below (thanks to Ray's awesome walkaround CD's again). These are from a UH-1N but the measurements should be the same on a -D/H.

1 - The overall width and depth of the transmission housing (red lines)

2 - The distance from the rear cabin wall to the centerline of the stretcher support plates (yellow lines)

3 - Height to the center of each support plate on the pole from the floor (orange lines)

4 - But most importantly, the height of both the seat rear support pole and the upper seat back pole from the floor (blue lines)

01_zpsznflarnk.jpg

02_zpsjpy8tt3i.jpg

I can pretty much place everything else based upon these dimensions so any help I can get would be more than appreciated. As some of you may or may not know, I live in the UK where Hueys are pretty scarce, hence my request.

Thanks !

Andy

Edited by andy evans
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...