MiG Hunter Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 I almost solely use testors liquid cement or tamiya thin cement for modelling and the problem is that the moment it touches a painted part, like air brakes panels or landing gear shafts, it immediately dissolves the paint and fogs the contact point. How do you avoid this issue? How do you fix the fogging? Should I use testors modelling glue(tube form) instead of liquid cement? I have hard time cleaning up glue residue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
viper730 Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 I think You are using too much glue. The beauty of liquid cement is that not much is needed. the best way is a small amount(the smaller the part the less glue) on each part to be cemented. join the parts. next add just a tiny amount of cement to reactivate the glue. set it aside to dry. if the paint is disturbed letting it alone usually it will return to normal if not a fine point bush may be needed to touch up the color. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spejic Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 I usually use Testors non-toxic cement (blue colored container) in these cases. Put a drop on a plastic card and then use a pin to place it exactly where you need it. It's slow, but it makes a good bond and shouldn't bother paint that much. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phantom Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 I almost always pre paint my parts. Also ALWAYS use Testors tube glue for everything except photo etch. Never had a problem with sticking or fogging. That new stuff might work for dem dar yongins but I like the tried and true old school stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 One of the advantages of liquid glue such a Extra Thin is that it dissolves paint so that you can glue pre-painted parts. As others have already said, less is better, but offers you more control. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 I almost always pre paint my parts. Also ALWAYS use Testors tube glue for everything except photo etch. Never had a problem with sticking or fogging. That new stuff might work for dem dar yongins but I like the tried and true old school stuff. Phantom, I didn't realize that Testors still made the old style tube glue that worked. Not the non sniffing type that was next to useless. How is it labeled so you can tell which one you're buying? Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Triarius Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 I scrape off the paint on the bonding surface and use medium viscosity CA, as only a tiny amount is necessary for a very strong bond. A useful technique: put a the CA on the model surface where the part will go, then put a small amount of accelerator on the part itself. Apply part in its final position. Instant, strong bond. For clear parts, I use Sobo Craft Glue, essentially a high quality white glue with the same properties as Micro Krystal Clear. It also sets faster than ordinary white glues. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MiG Hunter Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 What is CA? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Triarius Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 What is CA? CyanoAcrylate glue, a.k.a. "Superglue." There are a number of brands available. Zap is the most common for modeling purposes. I'm fond of the Mercury Adhesives brand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
billw Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 What is CA? AKA super glue. BW Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phantom726 Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 How about trying an acrylic glue such as Gator glue or similar. Just a thought - haven't tried it myself. Bjarne Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fellow Hobbyist Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Since it is a polyurethane-based the glue will expand as it sets. You would have to be very careful on how much you would apply to the parts to be bonded. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MiG Hunter Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 In theory, parts being glued or cemented together should not be painted, to maximize the plastic to plastic bond, but it reality we always paint parts, either on or off sprue, before assembly. So I still have this dilemma with Testor's plastic cement(liquid). The moment it touches the part which is painted with acrylic, it dissolves the acrylic and the bond is poor. I found that Testor's plastic cement(small red tube) is strongest and safe on paint but cleaning up the excess is messy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AnthonyWan Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 I use Gator Glue or Microscale Krystal Klear (white glue) - I usually dilute it a tiny tiny bit with water on a bottle lid, and tip the part into it before placing it. Hold it in place for a few seconds and it should hold. If needed, u can thin the glue some more until it's basically water and then use a fine brush to run a bead around your part. Wait for it to cure up a bit and then use a wet Q-tip to clean up any excess for a perfect join Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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