Decal Silvering

[plasticWerks_JL]

Hey fellow ARCer's,

While applying decals on my A-4E, I ran into a problem with silvering on the squadron name and insignia (which sit over a larger decal on the fuselage):

Discounting my terrible decal application of the blue stripe (it was a huge pain; with more time I would've preferred painting it), I need to try and correct this before moving forward. I'm hoping more experienced builders can provide some tips to minimize this silvering.

The solutions I can think of are:

- apply another coat of Solvaset (will enough coats eventually allow the air under the decals to escape as the decal melts? How many coats are too many?)

- poke small holes into the decal and apply more Solvaset (that's a lot of poking)

- Will a layer of Future brushed over the decal be more useful than the Solvaset?

For informational purposes, my application process was as follows:

- Soak decal in lukewarm water ~30 sec., remove and let sit for about a minute on a piece of glass

- Apply a few drops of water to the model where the decal will sit, and "push" the decal off the carrier over the model with a soft brush

- Position decal, and use a new cotton swab to wick excess water away, then gently roll it from the center of the decal outward to push excess water out from under the decal

- After drying about 1-2 hrs, I applied a coat of Solvaset, and let it sit overnight. I did not have any (silvering) issues with the other decals.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can offer some advice!

[jinmmydel]

First, your finish doesn't appear to be glossy enough. It looks more satin than anything. A real good gloss coat is the first step to prevent this.

Second, when you lay the decal down you need to forcefully push as much air from under it as you can. I position it, dry the water off with a couple q-tips and then use a soft cloth and forcefully push it down. After it's sat a few minutes the Solvaset goes down.

Once the first application of solvaset dries if I get silvering I poke tiny holes around the decal with an airbrush needle and keep applying solvaset one application at a time. Eventually it will erase the silvering.

[Fly-n-hi]

I'd recommend the poking holes/solvaset method.

What I do is brush some solvaset over the silvering. In your case I'd work small areas instead of trying to fix the entire decal at once. While the solvaset is on the decal gently poke some holes with a fresh #11 blade. You should see the solvaset work its way under the decal. I also use a soft brush and gently brush over the decal after I poke the holes to help force any air out.

Take your time and don't melt the decal.

Edited October 4, 2015 by Fly-n-hi

[Triarius]

I agree that your surface looks too rough. That, I think, is most of your problem.

My former technique:

1. Soak decal until it starts to release from the backing.
2. Apply setting solution or water to surface.
3. Remove decal from water, wick away excess water by touching to a paper towel.
4. Apply and position decal.
5. Blot excess water from surface. Apply decal solvent.
6. If there are air bubbles, I prefer to use a blade, rather than a pin, especially if setting in water. See also my current technique. Water's surface tension makes it hard for it to escape from a small, circular pin hole. The slight cut made by the point of a No. 11 or similar blade makes for a surface tension differential at the edges of the hole, allowing air to migrate through liquid, whether solvent or water, more easily.
7. Apply more solvent as needed.

My present technique:

1. Soak decal until it starts to release from the backing.
2. Apply a puddle of Future to the surface.
3. Remove decal from water, wick away excess water by touching to a paper towel.
4. Apply and position decal.
5. Brush on more Future. ALLOW FUTURE TO DRY TO TOUCH—ZERO TACKINESS. This is critical. You can test by applying a drop of Future to a disposable plastic surface. When it isn't tacky, the model will be safe to handle.
6. If there are bubbles, use the knife and apply more Future.

The beauty of this technique is that there are rarely bubbles. It works because of three characteristics of Future:

1. It has a very high drying shrinkage.
2. It has a very high surface tension which increases as it dries.
3. It has strong adhesion to a clean surface.

What this means is that it will stick to the surface, shrinkage will pull the decal down on the surface and tend to force any air from under the decal. The high surface tension will also work against decal curling at the edges.

[plasticWerks_JL]

Thanks a lot for the advice, everyone.

First, your finish doesn't appear to be glossy enough.

I agree that your surface looks too rough.

I will work on getting a better gloss coat, for sure; it's still a technique I'm figuring out as I haven't gotten to this stage on too many kits. Just curious, but how long after applying the decals do you all let them dry before applying the solvent?

I do have some Micro Set that I didn't use under these decals, but after some research, I think I'll try it on another build. The Future techniques are interesting too, and I'll experiment with those as well. Maybe I'll do a side-by-side for these techniques on my next double Skyhawk build and compare the results.

[Joel_W]

I've never used the Pledge/Future method, instead I use now use Paul Budzick's method of MicroSet under the decal, then Set/sol/Solvaset, but you need to follow how he applies and works the decals as well. Here's a link to his video:

I've read about the Pledge method a few times, but never have tried it. Since you're using Pledge as a wetting agent on the model, I'm assuming that should help to eliminate any rough texturing of the prepared surface as it should act as a final surface gloss coat as well. After you position the decal and apply a coating of Pledge, I gather that you don't touch it until the Pledge has dried. I can see this working for flat or large curved surfaces, but what if you're applying the decal to a compound curve, or in tight areas that the decal needs to be worked into position? Will the Pledge correctly suck it down into its proper position?

Joel

[Triarius]

<snip>After you position the decal and apply a coating of Pledge, I gather that you don't touch it until the Pledge has dried. I can see this working for flat or large curved surfaces, but what if you're applying the decal to a compound curve, or in tight areas that the decal needs to be worked into position? Will the Pledge correctly suck it down into its proper position?

Joel

It works well in tight areas and compound curves because of the high surface tension. The only time it may not is over very deep, sharp corners in the middle of a large decal, such as overlapping an aileron, rudder, or elevator line. In those cases, regardless of method, cutting the decal along the line is usually necessary as well as usually authentic.

[Joel_W]

It works well in tight areas and compound curves because of the high surface tension. The only time it may not is over very deep, sharp corners in the middle of a large decal, such as overlapping an aileron, rudder, or elevator line. In those cases, regardless of method, cutting the decal along the line is usually necessary as well as usually authentic.

Triarius,

Thanks for the information.

When all that Pledge dries in 30 min or so, do you end up with shiny high spots that you can actually see? I'm also assuming that the usual sealing coat of gloss, in this case Pledge is still needed more for blending then sealing?

Joel

[Netz]

Try this to correct the silvering.

Get a tube of blue oil paint, thin with turpentine (oid) then poke many holes into the decal, apply the heavily tinned paint onto the decal, it should flow under the decal through the holes and fill the silvering gaps.

This is usually done with burnt umber, but since your blue on blue then blue it is.

Curt

[SERNAK]

You could also use Humbrol's Clear before applying decals. I think it has a similar formula to that of Future.

[lesthegringo]

I have both Humbrol Clear and Future and can confirm that they are not the same. Future is better, not that Clear is bad.

As for the silvering, recently I have found that the ones most prone to it are ones from Tamiya kits. A couple of 1/48 mossies I recently built, then painted with Gunze lacquers (a fine satin finish), and even flooding with future before and after has not prevented the silvering from occurring especially on the smaller stencils.

Trumpeter get a bad name for the kits, but even on a poor matt finish I was able to get the decals to snuggle down nice and tight.

I am sure that a good technique will help, but some decals just don't want to play along as much as others. I certainly try and go for at least a good satin finish, and if possible gloss as it does increase my chances, but even then I still have bad days, particularly with those with lots of carrier film.

[plasticWerks_JL]

Thanks for the tips, everyone. I was able to remedy the silvering somewhat, and I'm not going to worry about it too much more.

Honestly, I fizzled out a bit and stepped away from the bench for the last week or so. I won't get to do any building for another week or so more, but when the mojo comes back, I'll hit it with some future and see what the end result is.