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Chris

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About Chris

  • Rank
    Canopy Polisher
  • Birthday 10/04/1978

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  • Location
    Somewhere On The East Coast Of The UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
  1. Fine Scale Modeler had an article on this in the past, I'll post the issue later when I have a chance to search through my stacks. Basically the author chuched a piece of dowel into his dremel at low speed and used a fine paint brush to paint the lines on the bombs. HTH -Chris
  2. I find its easier to clean them and paint them after assembly, I find that no mater how careful I am somehow I get glue on the paint and lift it off. Though I will shoot a coat of primer on the apparently clean parts while they are attached to the spruce to highlight any areas that need attention. -Chris
  3. I wouldn't use it to stick a landing gear strut to the model, but for photo etch and foil it should be fine provided that the etched piece is not in a position to be knocked off everytime you move the model (like pilot tubes) I should say that I have used this only to foil small areas of car models, and not for any really large pieces of photo etch. As will all adhesives the larger the surface area of the bond, the better the hold will be. HTH -Chris
  4. Usually use them straigh from the bottle, but every once and a while, depending on the bottle I may need to add a few drops of laqure thinner to get it to flow smoothly. It maybe the paint, or it be a little paint has dried on my needle. -Chris
  5. I usually use Denatured Alchohol, the kind you would find for cleaning/stripping paint at Home Depot. I usally thin my mix down to the consistency of skim milk, about 50/50, depending on the results I may add a few more drops of the alcohol to the cup. After a few minutes of painting I usally wipe the tip down with a cuetip soaked in alchohol and then shoot a paint cup or two of alchohol though the airbrush to clean it. In exreme cases where the paint has dried inside the airbrush, I disasemble it and soak it over night in denatured alchohol and then rinse it very well at the sink. HTH -C
  6. Erwin, Drop me a line, I have the seats you need in my spares box. -Chris
  7. It's like real fine putty that you paint on. It sands and polishes out glassy smooth. If you use enamel to check to see if you have filled your seams enough now you can use Mr. Surfacer the same way and it works way nicer. It will fill any rough sanding marks too. Try it, you'll like it. Thanks. Can this be applied with a brush as well as an airbrush? The bottle I saw at my hobby shop said yes. I use Dupli Colors filler primer, in a spray can, I pick up at my automotive supply store, I think its that same stuff only a little cheaper. HTH -Chris
  8. dreammh, Try scaning them into a photo editing program, like photoshop, and tuning down the colors before reprinting them. -Chris
  9. I have never use the Tamiya pin vise, but that seems a little over the top, price wise. I use this one from micro mark. What bits the can't fit, I chuck into my drill press. -Chris
  10. Chris

    Spray booth

    Most people use a Range Hood that you can get from any home improvement store for the exhust fan. HTH -Chis
  11. I usually paint the area I am going to put the decal on with the microscale solution, then apply the decal and carefully blot it down with a papertowel. If the decal is going over raised details, I do the above, but then apply some more solution right over the decal, several applications maybe needed, until it settles down. When you apply the solution to the decals, don't touch the decals, they become very soft and prone to ripping until the solution is dry. HTH -Chris
  12. afyeats, I would not waste money on it, there is no maker, and the seller thinks it works okay. Spend a few more bucks, and go to your local Home Depot/Lowes and get a pancake compressor. I think I bought my 4 Gallon compressor, by CH power, with hose and brad nailer for $110.00. HTH -Chris
  13. Batman, Try this. I use my telephoto lens, I think its 80-300mm, and zoom in on the details I want, it does a good job, even if I have to stand back some. I'll post some pics as soon as I get the roll developed. I have done the same thing with the lens that came with the camera. I'll post more hints as I take a photography course in late October. HTH -Chris
  14. Castrol Super Clean (the one in the purple bottle) you can get it at auto parts stores. Just drop your chomed part in and walk away for a few minutes, then fish it out and scrub off the chrome and wash the part well with soap and water. CSC will not harm plastic, I have left a model soaking for a month, (I sorta forgot about it) the paint was gone and the plastic was fine. And wear gloves, CSC is a degreaser and will disolve the top layer of skin (trust me I learned the hard way :P ). HTH -Chris
  15. Depends on the type of weights I am using. If I am using bb's or lead shot pellets I mix up a small amount of shot into my epoxy mixture and put that in the nose. If I am using the old wheel/tire weights I get from my gas station, I just run a bead of thick CA donw the weight and glue it in place. HTH -Chris
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