Yellowbelly

Interesting comment on whether missles on the fuselage would be cooked by the exhaust nozzels. I asked this question on the Harrier website and I was told that SHARs don't use the combination of Sidewinders and AIM 120s - that its either AIM 120 or AIM 9s, not combined. YB

I've got a F-35K Panda RN version - has all the V/STOL components except the swivle nozzel - I've no real rush to build it yet as I've got at least a Jaguar GR-3, Tonkas (2) and Lghtning to build before I even think about it. By then we might have alternatives or aftermarket kits to help me acurately build the F-35K. YB

Ah MM enamel paints - stir and keep on stiring each time you open the bottle. For stiring, I use the Badger paint stirer that takes 2 AA batteries. Used to use cocktail sticks but the Badger seems to mix the "gunky" stuff with the paint thinner in the bottle. Just be careful to replace lost paint thinner after each application. I lost 10+ bottles of MM enamel paints because I didn't stir and seal properly after use. I use clingfilm as is my preferred sealer under the cap + couple of drop of MM paint thinner after each application of paint. Keeps the paint thin and reduces extensive stirin

Saw tooth pick in half - superglu to the end of pick and missle. Easily snaps off once the rest of the missle is done. I clean and touch up end of missle without problems. I have little pine boards with holes drilled into them to place toothpick/kit pieces in for storage between painting sessions. Works fine and prevent loss of small resin pieces to the carpet gods who demand their sacrifices way too often. YB

I think you'll find that Tamiya masking tape is regarded as the best. Conforms well to complex shapes and comes off nice. If you're looking for tape from the hardware store, I've tried 3M Blue tape - it's a little too sticky for my liking and I wouldn't recommend with masking on MM Metalizers (not sure what works with those!!) but as long as you prepare the surfaces of your model that should work. I've also used white masking tape from the hardware store for flat surfaces and for covering large areas because it's real cheap. YB

It would be real nice if we could get a Sea Harrier and GR3 from big H. I've done a Tamiya FA1 with Eduard detail set and intend to do the Airfix FA-2 with the Flightpath conversion set. But after building a Hasegawa FGR-2 and doing a chalk wash that shows the fantastic details I hope Hasegawa meets our needs for a quality kit to play with. YB

Joe, Interesting observation. My experience with Pollyscale acrylics ( Gloss and Matt clear coats/Reefer White) & Tamiya (Smoke and Clear Blue) is relatively new but I was impressed with both Pollyscale and Tamiya airbrush thinners. So I now have a choice - anyone know what's in these 2 thinners? YB

Great Models has the kit plus all the accessories you could dream of. YB

Just finished a Hasegawa FGR-2 with BB FGR-2/F4-J set. First time doing a resin cockpit set and it wsa a bugger to get the fit right. Accuracy is excellent - everything appears to be in the right place when I access the walk-around pictures on the ARC forum. I will use the wonderful F4-J ejector seats and possibly the RIO components with a future F4J (UK) build rather than investing in another new BB set. BB detail is superb but once you've closed up the fuselage and put the canopies on, you really don't see much. With a Tornado or modern jets, you'll probably see more but I don't think th

Just completed a FGR-2 Rhino with a Black Box cockpit and flightpath Matra rocket pods (hopefully will be posted by Steve later this year). It sits perfectly without nose weights. I doubt if the Rhino needs them OOB as the rear wheels are far back and the center of gravity is nicely in the middle plus there's no instructions saying weight is needed. YB

Avoid Aztek if you don't want to have airbrush frustration. I've had 2x 470s and finally decided to go with a real metal quality tool with a Badger 360. It has great control and I've had great results with MM enamels/metalizers/acrylics and Tamiya acrylics. The only thing I plan to use my Aztek for now is primers and metalizers which their tan nozzel does quite nicely. YB

I mask the canopy with Badger clean mask trimmed with scapel blade, airbrush black and then attach it with thin blutac along the edges to the cockpit and front windshield. Trim the squeezed blutac for airbrushing and there you have it. This technique is real useful especially if you are spraying a camo pattern and the canopy is big or long. Once you've done your airbrushing you can remove for decaling or keep on till you clear coated your model. As long as you are careful with your airbrushing you should have any problem with paint getting inside. YB

Lots of techniques outlined in the Tool & Tips section on the ARC main page. I used airbrushed MM Burnt Iron as a base for the inside of engines and weather the outside of the engines nozzles with smoke and clear blue to give a heated metal appearance. I'll send you some pictures to your email. YB

Lots of techniques outlined in the Tool & Tips section on the ARC main page. I used Burnt Iron as a base for the inside of engines and weather the outside of the engines nozzles with smoke and clear blue to give a heated metal appearance. I've attached a couple of pictures for review YB

Interesting observations on Humbrol paints. My only experience was using Extra Dark Sea Grey mixed with MM White enamel airbrushed on Tamiya Sea Harrier & MM Airbrush Thinner. I noticed it did clump together after about 2 weeks but it may be an issue with my preservation technique (add cling film once I open a MM Jar). Anyone had a similar experience mixing Humbrol and MM enamels? YB