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jenshb

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About jenshb

  • Rank
    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 02/04/1965

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  • Location
    Essex, UK
  • Interests
    Planes, cars, ships and military vehicles in the approximate order (planes always first) from WW2 to the present.

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  1. Thank you for confirming that Wilde Weasel V. And also for the paint spec on the undercarriage. I understand Canadian Voodoo Grey is basically identical to Boeing Gray, so that would be my basis for comparing to my FS 595 guide for mixing.
  2. I created the CAD models for these so I can help. On the kit, remove the part of the intake shown on the KH side and thin the outer wall. Also, remove the square pad on the main wheel well. You may also need to chamfer or remove material from the forward part of the main wheel well (not shown hatched). You may also need to chamfer or thin the remaining part of the intake wall. https://imgur.com/mr9Klqf Parts in place. I recommend dryfitting the entire intake and then gluing the forward part of the intake duct to the kit intake and fuselage, then remove the rear intak
  3. How do these two colours compare? Lighter? Darker? Pretty much the same? Referring the the basic grey paint used by the manufacturers for the wings, undercarriage, wheel wells, engine pylons....
  4. I find the cockpit a bit lacking although the resin ejection seat will help. Wish there was a resin cockpit for that kit (there is one for the old Esci/Italeri/Airfix kit, but that is too wide) or a 3D printed cockpit set. I would also recommend the wheels and the Ram Air Turbine as that is always extended when the aircraft is on the ground. REsKit also makes a beautiful exhaust, although that will be partially hidden as the upper segment of the thrust reverser hangs down with loss of hydraulic pressure.
  5. Some versions of the Hasegawa kits have also been released by Hobby 2000 and should be available.
  6. This is some of the crispest and cleanest modelling I've ever seen...
  7. For an in flight propeller aircraft I think it looks better with the spinner sanded smooth than seeing stationary blades. The camera on a short shutter speed may freeze the blades, but what your eyes will see is just a slightly darker than ambient circle.
  8. In this period, the RNoAF aircraft would with a very high level of certainty have the strengthening plates on top of the wing roots (just ahead of the flaperons) and a small plate just below the canopy hinge. The former were added in the mid-late 80s, the latter would be added in the mid-80s. None of these are included in the kit, although the latter is easy to make from a bit of Evergreen plastic strip. The short answer to your question is therefore "no".
  9. A lot of people have the Academy/Minicraft kit that also could need an intake like this....
  10. I just looked at pics, not the instructions....😁
  11. The nose is too blunt - compare with the photo of the real thing - it starts to taper behind the front wings - the 3D print tapers in front of the front wings. And I believe the Penguin has only one aperture for the rocket motor.
  12. The Tamiya F-14 kit instructions tell you to paint them Sky Grey - as well as the radomes for the Phoenix missiles. Presumably someone at Tamiya have interpreted the dirt on old and well weathered Sparrow radomes as a medium grey and set the paint code XF-19 when I'd say Deck Tan would be more appropriate for a slightly dirty white finish...
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