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plastic-stasher

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About plastic-stasher

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  1. Is it just me or is anyone else beginning to see the possibilities for a carrier deck diorama without the need for model aircraft? Derek
  2. Time was when you took a little kid on a road trip, after a while, he or she would keep asking "Are we nearly there, yet?" Not that this has anything to do with this thread really.....just saying! Derek
  3. Hi Chris, A tip I came across lately about white paint is to use a black primer. You then airbrush on a coat of undiluted matte white, and finally a normally diluted coat of gloss white. I have tried it a couple of times and it worked for me. Hope this helps, Derek
  4. If you feel the need to buy some Eduard photo-etch to enhance the cockpit, keep the instrument panel, consoles and seatbelts and throw the rest away. No one is going to see all the tiny little bits, and you will save yourself hours trying to get them to stick in place or (more likely) crawling about on your hands and knees trying to find them in the carpet monster. Derek
  5. A fine-line black pen is a very useful tool as stated above. Use acrylic paint rather than enamel. Speed up drying times using a hair-dryer. Don't spend hours or even days researching the precise shade of gray (or whatever) paint used on the original. Use something that looks close enough to you eye as it's your model anyway. After applying a wash or filters, who's going to know. NEVER buy an Aires resin cockpit. This should save hours of sanding/filling. Lastly.......slow down and enjoy the hobby! Derek
  6. Hi, You might like to try getting hold of a Holly Line Engraver from Alec (name of the company). They come in 0.1, 0.15 and 0.2mm sizes. They look a little flimsy, but they are very strong and also very sharp. They are made in Japan, and I have no idea where you might be able to get them in the USA. Derek
  7. I can heartily recommend Badger's Stynylrex primer. It goes down really well, and you can sand it after 30 minutes or so. A coat of Tamiya X1 Glass Black over the top and you are all ready to go with metal finishes. I should add that the primer comes in various colors including black, white and grey.
  8. Don't try to sand the primer, and add about 20% Tamiya X20A thinner to the Duraluminium. The Floramodels website has recently tested these products.
  9. Off topic I know, but thanks for the fast service on my order for T-45 intakes Mike. If you ever make any other bits for this aircraft, I would be interested. Derek in Spain
  10. Good news Mike. Nice to see you back. Glad to hear that you will be re-issuing the T45 bits and pieces. I hve one of the Two Bobs Centennial specials in the stash just waiting. Derek
  11. You might add some of Tamiya's X-21, Flat Base to your Future coat before spraying. This will reduce the gloss effect to either a satin or a matt effect depending on how much you add. A bit of experimenting first will help you judge how much to add to get the result you want.
  12. Lovely work as always Chuck with your signature fastidious attention to detail. I notice from the photographs that Marge has aluminium wheel wells whereas you had painted yours in green before deciding to replicate this particular airframe. I would assume that at this stage you intend to leave them that way now and claim a little artistic licence. Keep up the good work. It is inspirational. Derek
  13. Just a thought, but is it my imagination that from time to time that some of these so-called "crap" kits appear in the display case and are subject to a great deal of praise? Perhaps the original criticism was exaggerated, and any faults could be corrected by a competent modeller......or maybe folks are just naturally polite when someone puts up their effort for comment.
  14. I suspect these aircraft had got broken and the Typhoon ground crew had to fix theirs with Band-Aids cos their American hosts had used up all the Duct Tape on their F-35
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