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Hobbycraft 1/32nd scale Sopwith Camel


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Hello all,

Thanks for stopping by.

What better way to start the New Year than by starting a new build.

This is a first for me.

Inspired by the works within this forum I've decided to try my hand at a bi-plane.

Firstly, the apologies.........I apologise in advance in case this build upsets the purists :D

I openly admit that I don't know the first thing about these older aeroplanes so I'm afraid I'm likely to make more than a few mistakes (should give some of you a chuckle though ;) )

The finished model will be viewed only by myself and a couple of un-interested family members and friends. With that in mind, I intend to finish the aeroplane so that it looks like what I think a Sopwith Camel should look like.

This means that the colour of the linen/fuselage/metal areas may not necessarily be accurate. So long as it looks like a Camel I'll be happy :rolleyes:

That said, that does n't mean that I won't listen to any comments/criticism. Good or bad, I will take all of your suggestions on board. I need all the help I can get so please feel free to add any thoughts you may have.

On to the model.

I'm sure many of you have already experienced the Hobbycraft brand but they are new to me so I was n't sure what to expect. I've had the model for some time but only cracked the bags open today. I was itching to get started.

Like so many projects, this one has given me many ideas. The first one is the bare metal areas of the fuselage. Having watched a number of blokes use bare metal foil on their builds I was very impressed by the realism. I thought I'd like to give it a try so here we go............

tn_P0000003.jpg

The photo above shows my initial attempts. I thought that the internals would be a better place to start with, that way if I messed the job up, it'd be less visible. Thanks to Nick and Mike on my other thread I got a few pics to work from but any more would be very welcome.

I've used the foil that you'd find around the neck of a wine bottle rather than cooking foil. I feel that it is a little more forgiving.

Each component has had foil glued to it where it will be visible.

tn_P1010040.jpg

Once assembled it pulls together like this. I've used a length of aluminium tubing to recreate the pipe which seems to cross the fuselage. The kit part is sort of an extended "V" shape but pics of the full sized aeroplane suggest that this pipe is straight?

tn_P0000001.jpg

I'm fairly happy with the results although the top cowling may need looking at again.

The plan is to continue this bare metal effect on the outside of the fuselage and access panels but the engine cowling will more than likely be metalliser paint.

I hope you enjoy the pics. I'll post more when I get chance. Sadly, I don't get as much time at the model bench as I'd like.

See you next time.

:cheers:

Edited by geedubelyer
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HIya Guy,

Great start so far. The metal foil looks like it went down nice and smooth. Good idea about starting on the backside first.

The "pipe" you are refering to that goes across is actually the carburetor intakes for the rotary engine. It has a 90 degree elbow in the center that feeds down and into the rear of the rotary engine. I'll shoot a picture of the rear of the Hasegawa Camel and post it here for your reference.

Cheers

Mike

Edited by Skyking
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So far so good! :thumbsup:

Just remember that if it is like the old Academy kit (which was the old Hobbycraft kit) there were two detail errors in that kit you might want to watch out for:

1. They literally want you to install the twin Vickers guns upside down! to correct that you snip off the pegs on top of the barrel jackets, and install them correct side up.

2. The small prop driven fuel pump is loacted on the wrong cabane strut. They have it on a forward strut, when it belongs on a rear strut. Of course this means you snip it off the wrong strut and glue to to the correct one, which is the right-rear cabane strut.

If you want to super-detail, you also run a small fuel line to the pump as well.

Edited by Nieuport
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So far so good! :banana:

Just remember that if it is like the old Academy kit (which was the old Hobbycraft kit) there were two detail errors in that kit you might want to watch out for:

1. They literally want you to install the twin Vickers guns upside down! to correct that you snip off the pegs on top of the barrel jackets, and install them correct side up.

2. The small prop driven fuel pump is loacted on the wrong cabane strut. They have it on a forward strut, when it belongs on a rear strut. Of course this means you snip it off the wrong strut and glue to to the correct one, which is the right-rear cabane strut.

If you want to super-detail, you also run a small fuel line to the pump as well.

Thankyou Nieuport. I think this might be a different molding as the instructions depict the m/guns in the correct aspect and there is no pump on any strut..... :lol: That said, I'd be interested in any info you might have so that I can add one on my model.

I'm working away steadily on the model when I get any time but progress is mediochre. Here is a pic of the work inside the fuselage.

tn_P1130006.jpg

I'm hoping that some of it will be visible once everything is closed up. Even if it is n't, I'm enjoying myself and getting in some much needed practice.

The top (stbd) fuselage half has an experimental colour applied but it is too dark. I'll prime the inside of the cockpit and do both sides a lighter base colour before I try to replicate the wood effect.

The large green blob is supposed to be the main fuel tank and will eventually be matt aluminium. I've added it only to block off the view into the rear fuselage behind the seat. A couple of straps and some framing will complete that job.

Next up is the engine. Thanks to everyone who put me straight on this one. The kit I bought has the two rectangular cut-outs in the cowl for the Le Rhone engine. I bought the NeOmega resin kit and boy, is it a beaut' :yahoo:

Her are several pics for anyone that is n't familiar with this aftermarket kit.

tn_P1130004.jpg

The colours are a little lighter in daylight.

tn_P1130001.jpg

The detail has to be seen to be believed, far in excess of what I'd be able to achieve if I tried to super-detail the kit part.

tn_P1130002.jpg

The cooling vanes are exquisitely rendered as is the valve gear on the cylinder heads.

The only things I can mention are the intake(?) manifolds which were a tad too long and one or two of the cylinders had the pushrod connector arms missing on this set. Other than that, well worth spending extra in my book.

:o

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Looking really good Guy. I think your fuel tank needs to go back a little further though. There was an auxillary tank mounted underneat the top fuselage decking right in front of it, and it looks like the amount of room you have there is a wee tight. Check the pictures I sent you and I think you'll see what I mean.

Your woodwork on the sides looks about right, and your aluminum panels look good. Those might be a little difficult to see once the dash is in place. The large black engine bearer you asked me about will be impossible to see, so I wouldn't loose too much sleep over it.

I'm hoping that some of it will be visible once everything is closed up.

You will see a fair bit between the seat and dash Guy, but you have to remember the top wing really blocks a lot of the view. At least you will have the satisfaction of knowing it's all in there. 80% of all the stuff I put inside my SA-2 is impossible to see, but at least I have pictures. :lol:

Keep up the steady progress. I bet you'll be hooked yet after this one.

Cheers

Mike

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Thanks fellas, I'm glad you like it. Your input is invaluable

Looking really good Guy. I think your fuel tank needs to go back a little further though. There was an auxillary tank mounted underneat the top fuselage decking right in front of it, and it looks like the amount of room you have there is a wee tight. Check the pictures I sent you and I think you'll see what I mean.

Roger that Mike. Luckily I've only mounted the fueltank on a blob of blu-tack so moving it should be a breeze. The photos that you sent me are my main source of reference for the interior.

Your woodwork on the sides looks about right, and your aluminum panels look good. Those might be a little difficult to see once the dash is in place. The large black engine bearer you asked me about will be impossible to see, so I wouldn't loose too much sleep over it.

O.k., I'll take your advice and leave the engine bearer out of this build, thanks.

You will see a fair bit between the seat and dash Guy, but you have to remember the top wing really blocks a lot of the view. At least you will have the satisfaction of knowing it's all in there. 80% of all the stuff I put inside my SA-2 is impossible to see, but at least I have pictures. :lol:

I know what you mean, most of my builds have stuff you can't see once it's all closed up. The joys of adding extra detail I suppose :yahoo:

Keep up the steady progress. I bet you'll be hooked yet after this one.

Cheers

Mike

Phil, buddy, we need to talk. That work in the Camel looks great :doh: That motor is the Clerget, right? It looks terrific. Is it by NeOmega or another brand?

I've been wanting to know where the fuel lines run and your pics show just what I need. Do the fuel lines differ from Le Rhone powered aeroplanes?

Are there any more pics you could post showing your Camel please? I could use all the help I can get as I'd like to add as much detail in the cockpit as sanity allows...(and then some :o )

Thanks for keeping an eye on me guys, I really appreciate all of the help and advice.

:cheers:

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Guy;

Yeah, its a Clerget. Its scratchbuilt from aluminum and acrylic. When I built it, Neomega had not yet come on the market. So, the ol miniature machine shop got dusted off and given a workout.

If you can find it, Ken Foran did an excellent 1/16 Camel scratchbuild and posted a ton of pics. His Camel was my main source of inspiration. Get a tall mug of your favorite beverage and Google (Images) Ken Foran and Sopwith Camel. Comfortable chair might not be a bad idea 'cuz you're gonna be there a while.

As for the plumbing, I would have to assume that Clerget and LeRhone would be similar. The main difference would be that Clerget used dual ignition and so lost the place for an air pump on the auxillary section of the engine. That necessitated the wind-driven air pump. I don't think the LeRhone version used the wind driven pump. There are also differences in the placement of the pulsemeter, but I'm not sure which one goes with which engine. I chose to mount mine on the sidewall rather than on the instrument board.

Here are a few more shots of mine. Its stalled until I can noodle out the paintjob (Ruston-Proctor Behudet scheme):

InstPanel02.jpg

EngineSupport01.jpg

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Thanks for the extra pics Phil, they give me even more of an insight into the belly of the beast.

I'm not sure what all of the dials represent on the instrument panel.

I've managed to get a Copper State etch/film set so I will use them if I can decide what goes where :wacko:

I'm also trying to fathom out how to represent the stick and rudder wires before I close the fuselage up. Your second pic shows how they run, now it's up to me to try to replicate them.

A quick question.....what are the wires running down the front of the stick please?

Your model should look a treat when you finally get her done Phil, thanks again for your help buddy. ;)

:blink:

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Thanks for the kudos, Guy;

Description of the "wires" attached to the stick:

The button at the top of the spade grip is a blip switch, used to cut the ignition to the engine for landing and such. There are also two levers attached to Bowden cables; effectively triggers for the Vickers guns. These are bundled together and lashed to the column.

Unlike most other aircraft where there are elevator control wires above and below the stick pivot, the Camel attaches both sets of wires above the pivot. One set goes aft directly to the elevator bottom control horns. The other set goes forward, around a set of pulleys, then aft to the upper control horns.

As for the instruments, here's my working sketch:

InstPanelSketch.jpg

Happy to Help

Phil

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Ah, most informative, thanks Phil. Are the instuments arranged in this scheme on all Camels or was the siting of instruments more arbritary?

The Copper State etch is tiny, as are all of the details. Magnifiers are definately the order of the day on those I can tell you! :rolleyes:

I'm eagerly anticipating the look of the finished panel although, since it sits quite a way toward the nose, I wonder how much will be visible once it's in place.......

Dabbled a bit with the prop today...I've gotta share these pics with you. ^_^

I'm really happy with how this turned out. I'd call it beginners luck and although it's not perfect, I'm leaving it as is...it's good enough for me ;)

(The centre boss has yet to be painted of course)

tn_P1160007.jpg

A little closer on each blade......

tn_P1160006.jpg

tn_P1160003.jpg

A little dust must have got caught in the brush but to the naked eye, these specks are tiny and actually look like wood grain so they can stay

tn_P1160004.jpg

Lastly, here's something I'm toying with....

tn_P1160008.jpg

When it's blown up to this scale it appears rather crude but at 1:1 scale, with some paint on it, it might look o.k.,......time will tell.

Back soon with more bits.

:whistle:

(I'm really enjoying this so far..but then, I've not tried any rigging yet!!)

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OK Guy.. fess up. That's not a painted prop. That's real wood and you are too humble to admit it.

That's one of the nicest painted props I've ever seen. One of the reasons I make my own or buy them from CSM is that I can't paint plastic to look like wood for beans. It always ends up looking like... well, painted plastic. How about sharing your technique Guy? I am really dreading painting my MF for that reason. I am leaning toward using my own mix of Mahogany then going over it with Tamiya clear Orange as a final coat. I've experimented on some scrap plastic and it looks OK, but I am still leery.

Your seat is awesome. I agree with OldMan also, that copper wire would be easier to wind. Please post pictures of the finished seat Guy.

If you can manage a woven wicker seat then the rigging should be a piece of cake.

Cheers

Mike

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That is quite a seat you are working on, Sir!

If you are still in experimental stage, you might find that copper wire handles the bending a little better.

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Your seat is awesome. I agree with OldMan also, that copper wire would be easier to wind. Please post pictures of the finished seat Guy.

I agree with you both, that is a very good idea. If I can find some copper wire this thin I'll give it a try. I'll start stripping all of the appliances and see if I can find some :lol:

How about sharing your technique Guy?

Thanks for the input fellas, much appreciated.

I think (no, I'm sure) it was probably luck and I'm not positive I could replicate it but this is what I did.

The prop was given a white base coat/primer (Games Workshop Skull white primer from a spray can). I use alot of the Citadel Miniatures acrylic paint range so I can tell you their colours. What these translate to in more mainstream model colours is difficult to say.

I added a drop of Valejo acrylic paint thinner to a drop of "Vermin brown", (a tan brown colour) and then loaded up a broad, soft, water colour brush. I wiped a little paint off so I had somewhere halfway between a fully wet brush and a dry brush state. Then, starting at one tip, I gently dragged the brush along the length of the prop.

I was aimimg for a streaked appearance rather than an all over colour so I applied very little pressure, just enough to colour parts of the blade. By using light pressure I got some very happy accidents which resulted in quite convincing and subtle lighter and darker streaks. The added thinner gives more working time and I was able to work the paint until I was happy with the look. I think I gave the blade two coats of this colour at first so I had an allover yet lightly streaked coverage and then moved onto a "grain" colour of "Dark Flesh" (This is more of a mahogany colour)

This was a repeat of the above procedure with the intent of imparting the actual grain. I had thought I wanted actual visible streaks of the darker colour but as I worked the paint the finish just kind of materiallised. It honestly did n't take much thought and I was very pleasantly surprised by the outcome.

The final stage was to darken the whole and give the blades a soft sheen. This was achieved by coating the prop in thinned (with water this time) Brown Ink, from the Citadel Miniatures range again. I'm sure I gave each side only two coats before I got what I was looking for but if I'd wanted a higher gloss I could have used more coats. I thinned the ink because I wanted a lighter finish and I seemed to get better results that way.

Sorry for the long explanation folks. It took longer to write this than it did to actually paint the prop.

I'm so happy with the finished look but I fear I have reached my zenith on this build with the prop...it's all down hill from here! Maybe I should quit while I'm ahead.....:lol:

See you soon.

:)

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I agree with you both, that is a very good idea. If I can find some copper wire this thin I'll give it a try. I'll start stripping all of the appliances and see if I can find some :woot.gif:

Very impressive so far.

Very thin copper wire can be had by ripping into a solenoid or relay. I have a relay coil from a photo copy machine. The wire is about .008 inches which cyphers out to 0.2mm.

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Hi Guy,

Thanks for the explanation. I am going to attempt it on the MF, but I will practice on some scrap first. I have always had crappy luck with acrylics, so I will use enamels and oils instead. I'm sure it's me and not the acrylics, as everyone else in the known world seems to be able to use them, but I'll stick with what I know and give it a shot. Thanks again Guy.

Cheers

Mike

PS you know Guy I got to thinking, you are in the UK right? You have a wonderful resource there in the UK called The Shuttleworth Collection of flying WW1 aircraft. I know for a fact they have a Camel (maybe several?). I am not sure where you are in Bonnie England, but it might be a worthwhile day trip.

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Hi Guy,

Thanks for the explanation. I am going to attempt it on the MF, I have always had crappy luck with acrylics, so I will use enamels and oils instead.

Cheers

Mike

PS you know Guy I got to thinking, you are in the UK right? You have a wonderful resource there in the UK called The Shuttleworth Collection of flying WW1 aircraft. I know for a fact they have a Camel (maybe several?). I am not sure where you are in Bonnie England, but it might be a worthwhile day trip.

I'm sure that it will be spot-on Mike and I'm really looking forward to seeing it. The recent IPMS Nationals in the U.K. had a beautifully scratch built seaplane with a wooden hull. If I can find any pics I'll post them here.

As for the Shuttleworth collection, I'm lucky to live about 100 miles north of Old Warden where the museum is sited.

The family and I visited last autumn but I suspect that they were restoring the Camel as there was n't one on display at that time.

I did take a few pics of the Pup in the hopes that rigging attachment points, undercart, etc., were similar.

Apparently, if you are prepared to pay extra you can organise a guided tour behind the ropes which allows you to get up close and personal with the exhibits.

(If ever you need any pics of a particular aeroplane from the collection, let me know.)

:cheers:

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Hey Guy,

Nice work on the Camel to date. Love that prop.

Just wondering if you could help me on a colour question, and this goes out to everyone else too.

I'm just putting together a 1/72nd Sopwith Pup, and based on looking at a few models on the net, most cockpit interiors look as if they were wooden, so painted wood. I used this technique on the Revell Camel I finished over New Year.

However, digging deeper into how these planes actually looked, I've seen a couple of Pup models where they were painted doped linen, so I'm confused.

Here's a link to one such subject. http://www.wwi-models.org/app/sbj/srch/Mac...&subjId=315

Were the cockpit walls of all the Sopwith's just fabric with a wooden interior frame (my assumption), or did they vary from model to model, i.e. the Camel's were wooden, the Pup linen? Salamander and Snipe anyone?

Sorry if this now throws off your colour selection!

Cheers,

Nick

Edited by dylan the rabbit
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Hey Guy,

Just wondering if you could help me on a colour question, and this goes out to everyone else too.

I'm just putting together a 1/72nd Sopwith Pup, and based on looking at a few models on the net, most cockpit interiors look as if they were wooden, so painted wood. I used this technique on the Revell Camel I finished over New Year.

However, digging deeper into how these planes actually looked, I've seen a couple of Pup models where they were painted doped linen, so I'm confused.

Were the cockpit walls of all the Sopwith's just fabric with a wooden interior frame (my assumption), or did they vary from model to model, i.e. the Camel's were wooden, the Pup linen? Salamander and Snipe anyone?

Sorry if this now throws off your colour selection!

Cheers,

Nick

Hi Nick, no problem.

I'm a complete novice on this stuff but here are my thoughts. The Pup has wooden framework with linen all the way up to the metal parts. The Camel has plywood over the framework around the cockpit and on top of the fuselage aft of the cockpit opening. HTH.

:)

*EDIT*

Here are a couple of photos of my progress this week.

I had intended this build to be an enjoyable interlude before I plunged back into a big modern jet but.....not everything has been going to plan.

The model is not very well engineered. I really should n't expect it to be because it was very cheap but it is making me scratch my head a bit.

Lack of reference material does n't help and although I am enormously grateful for all of the help so far, there is only so much you guys can do for me.

Alot of this is guesswork and it's a new discipline for me. I guess I've got to lighten up some and just build the thing. I've already confessed that ultimate accuracy is n't my goal but it's a hard habit to break.

Here are the pics.....

tn_P1210002.jpg

You can see the metal foil applied over the cowling. I removed the molded on detail and then re-applied it using more foil pieces.

The fuel tank has been clad in foil even though very little of it will be seen. (It does look pretty though...)

Bracing wires are added to the internal cockpit framing to give more depth.

The seat is finished, as best as I can do. It's not perfect by any means but it does look better than the stock kit item and once painted and buried in the fuselage, with a couple of straps added, it ought to look reasonable.

Lastly, the instrument panel with Copper State etch and acetate dials. Crikey, were they ever fiddly! Look good though.

Here's a slightly closer look:

tn_P1210003.jpg

Your suggestion of copper wire was excellent Old Man, thank you. It did indeed bend better than the other wire. Next time I'll use copper all the way.......(next time?........ yeah, right!)

The seat base had me very frustrated for hours. I tried numerous materials to weave to form the complex pattern of the wicker, all to no avail. In the end I've scratched the pattern onto foil in the hope that some dry-brushing might lift the detail and give some idea of wicker. My thought is to curl the straps up on the seat base a little which should hide most of it anyway.

This leads me to a question. What should I be looking for in the way of straps? Do any aftermarket companies that you know of sell accurate looking straps? Also, I would love to know how and where the straps were attached.

Many thanks fellas, I hope you enjoy the pics.

'Til next time :unsure:

:cheers:

Edited by geedubelyer
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Guy;

I posted this a few days back, but I think it got lost in the server crash. So...

http://www.wwi-models.org/app/album/Acn.ph...1&picInx=68

http://www.wwi-models.org/app/album/Acn.ph...1&picInx=49

These comes from this site:

http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Foran/Camel/index.html

Now this is some scratchbuilding. ;)

Phil

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That is some great work, Mr. G. W.! I am glad my suggestion helped a little. If you are not satisfied with the look of the seat bottom, you could always hide it with a cushion, which many pilots slipped in under the bottom. Most of the pictures I have seen show a leather item, with some buttons and creasings in a diamond pattern. In 1/72 I can just scrape these in to a bit of sheet; in your scale, making some diamond shapes, rounding tops and edges, and fitting them onto a thin carrier sheet, with a final touch of little nubs of rod at the junctions, might work acceptably.

The usual English seat belt was a broad strip of heavy canvas, about as wide as the length of a hand, that went across the mid-section, rather than the lap, with a belt end and buckle for fastening it. They were anchored high in back to the structure of the machine.

I would never discourage foiling, but I think the most typical Camel finish was a battleship grey paint on the metal parts of the cowling, rather than bare metal, though I am certain there were exceptions.

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Hi Guy,

Thanks for that, and the build is looking great.

Funny thing about scratchbuilding eh? The more you start to do, the more you find for yourself to do just to add that bit more realism, and then you begin to think you're going mad! That seat looks great!

As far as seatbelts are concerned, I've made some for my 1/24th Hurricane (a build that is now dormant because of the seatbelt issue!) out of Mepore medical tape. The brand I bought was called Leukopor, but I guess in the UK it'll be different. It's textured looking, and looks almost fabric like when painted. I had looked into making buckles from parcel tape (you know the papery looking one) and painting them, but then I recently saw a modeller who made some from silver automotive tape. There are a bunch of resources on ARC to look at for making tape.

As far as I'm aware, the belts were attached onto a bar running behind the pilots seat, but then I could be wrong.

Keep up the good work!

Cheers,

Nick

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Hi Guy

Your progress so far is ecxellent. The seat looks like the real deal, not much more you can ask than that. If the seat pan really gets on your nerves Guy, some Camels had a cusioned seat cover you could always lay on top. There's a nice shot of one in the Datafile. When I get home tonight I will take a look at the instructions for my Hasagawa Camel. I believe they give a good inllustration of the belts. If so I'll scan them and email them to you.

Looking great Guy. Getting bit by the bug yet? Seeing as you have ventured over to this side of the fence, if I can convince Pete "Pig" to do the same, I might give a jet a try. I'd need help from you both though; with no propellor and a single wing I'm not sure I'd know where to begin B)

Cheers

Mike

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Thanks all for your continuing encouragement. I'm glad you like it so far. There's still seems an enormous amount left to do so we'll have to see what happens next....

Guy;

I posted this a few days back, but I think it got lost in the server crash. So...

http://www.wwi-models.org/app/album/Acn.ph...1&picInx=68

http://www.wwi-models.org/app/album/Acn.ph...1&picInx=49

These comes from this site:

http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Foran/Camel/index.html

Now this is some scratchbuilding. :)

Phil

Yeah, that Camel is the benchmark, eh Phil? Absolutely jaw dropping stuff. Thanks for the links. I think I'll pore over his pics some more to see if I can add extra detail to my cockpit. The busier I can make it, the better I'll like it.

If you are not satisfied with the look of the seat bottom, you could always hide it with a cushion, which many pilots slipped in under the bottom.
If the seat pan really gets on your nerves Guy, some Camels had a cusioned seat cover you could always lay on top

Another good idea. Thank you Old Man and Skyking. Your input is much appreciated. I'll certainly consider this if I'm not happy enough with the seat base

As far as I'm aware, the belts were attached onto a bar running behind the pilots seat, but then I could be wrong.
Ah, thanks Nick.
There's a nice shot of one in the Datafile. When I get home tonight I will take a look at the instructions for my Hasagawa Camel. I believe they give a good inllustration of the belts. If so I'll scan them and email them to you.
Now that would be splendid Mike. Your help is very much appreciated. If ever you try a jet for a change I'll try and return the favour but I suspect Pig is the man to ask on most things "jetlike".

If you can get him to chance his arm on a biplane I'd love to see what he can do. Fingers crossed.....

:blink:

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Hi Guy.

There's a nice shot of one in the Datafile. When I get home tonight I will take a look at the instructions for my Hasagawa Camel. I believe they give a good inllustration of the belts. If so I'll scan them and email them to you.

Tonight I dug the instructions out to the Hasegawa Camel, and lo and behold, not even a mention or drawing of the lap or shoulder belts. I couldn't believe it. I am going out to Buffalo NY Saturday to do a Hobby SHop Crawl. If I can find an Eduard Camel in 1/48th I'll pick it up, as I know they have some nice PE belts in the kit. I'll shoot a picture and send it off to you. Sorry about that. I would have sworn the Hasegawa kit would have included them.

Cheers

Mike

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