Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Bah good luck! it looked really good the paintwork was great too bad you had a change in mind in the scheme...but with your exceptional modelling skills i am sure you will salvage this one..

cheers!

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can try to remove the primer using denatured alcohol--it eats up Gunze lacquer quite nicely. I hope your first attempt isn't heading for the trash can...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Gutsy move there!

I just hope you remember to have fun while building. I know that the quest for perfection can get in the way of the fun and make the build a choire. Don´t make the same mistakes I´ve done and walk into that trap and end up with a kit without a sense of acomplishment and soul!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...

Hello, after a break I am back to this project. I have spent some time preparing the surface including rescribing the lines and the rivets (to deepen them). I went simple with the cockpit this time and everything is OOB. The model is almost ready for priming. Hope is goes all well.

IMG_3990.JPG

IMG_3991.JPG

IMG_3992.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

I cant belive you scraped it i loved out it looked and those decals and weathering was awesome :whistle:

you should salvage it !! Or send it over ill try to save it!!

Cheers

Neo

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been upset also that I could not salvage it. Well, I have learned a lot, and I hope I can put that experience to good use.

I have been experimenting with canopy tinting and I wanted to document the steps I followed. This is my first time attempting this. I have found the following reference to be very useful:

http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/lofive...hp?t163220.html

In the following images, the completed windshield is for visual calibration since the white balance is not the same in all pictures.

- I start with a future dipped canopy that has dried thoroughly [note: I have later found that it is actually 'better to start with cleaned up but bare (no Future) canopy. I will explain later]

IMG_3995.JPG

- Then, I prepare a mix of Tamiya smoke (5 parts) and Tamiya clear yellow (1 part), and add a little bit of Tamiya acrylic thinner. I carefully airbrush this. However, I over did it.

IMG_3998.JPG

- I cleaned the canopy with windex/alcohol and started from scratch. This time, I did not pre-dip the canopy in Future. I airbrush the color mix directly to the bare canopy. With more care (light coats, frequent inspection), the result looks better to me. Note the blurry/cloudy finish. That is ok.

IMG_4000.JPG

- Finally, I dip the canopy in Future and let it dry. The sheen comes back.

IMG_4002.JPG

IMG_4004.JPG

I think similar results could be achieved with Tamiya smoke only, or by adding a little bit of Tamiya clear orange. I liked to results I saw in the link I gave above, so I used that recipe. My finding is that you have to add very little yellow (otherwise will be too prominent).

Also, in my second attempt, why I did not dip the canopy in Future originally. I have found that when the color mix is airbrushed onto cured Future, it reacts slightly with Future and creates some unsightly micro-lumps. Starting with bare plastic proved to be better, and saves you the wait.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice going with the canopy and windscreen, looks really good! :)

Couldn't you just add some Tamiya Smoke and Clear Yellow in the Future, and then dip the clear parts?

This would save some time, and hopefully be just as good..? :thumbsup:

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have read some bad things about Tamiya paints not mixing well with Future and also the colored Future dip drying non-uniformly (some places too thin in color, others too thick). I think one get a more uniform color with the airbrush. That said, I have not tried your suggestion so I may very well be mistaken.

Link to post
Share on other sites

For grinding you can use something like this: sandpeper 800 + prism of wood 8x8mm.

Better is, when is the sendpaper wet.

sendpaper.jpg

this tip from Honza is a good one, but you should put some foamy between the wood stick and the sandpaper, foamy is a foam material about a 1/16" thick, came in sheets, it's use is in 2D figures for childrens and cards. look for it in crafts stores. just my two cents.

Byron

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the suggestion. I agree that a little bit of compliance in the back might help the process.

Small progress but I finally attacked the part that I dread the most: Masking and attaching the canopy/windshield. For the windshield, I used some tamiya tape + parafilm. I tried many ideas but I still cannot figure out the best way to mask the front of the windshield. After masking, I attached the windshield using tamiya liquid cement. Once it dried, I used super glue to fill the seams and applied accelerator. I am hoping superglue did not leak through the tamiya tape. Finally, I rolled up a small piece of sandpaper and carefully wet-sanded the seam while holding the sandpaper with a pair of tweezers.

IMG_4008.JPG

Next, I sprayed tamiya flat black to the exposed clear parts.

IMG_4010.JPG

The next step is the primer. Once done, I marked the places that need more sanding/leveling with a blue marker. I now have to fix them.

IMG_4011.JPG

IMG_4012.JPG

Edited by Janissary
Link to post
Share on other sites
The next step is the primer. Once done, I marked the places that need more sanding/leveling with a blue marker. I now have to fix them.

IMG_4011.JPG

IMG_4012.JPG

Be careful using magic marker/Sharpies to mark places to fix, they'll bleed through your paint if you don't completely get rid of them during the fixing. I use pencil to circle things that need fixing.

Looking good. IMO, you shoulda kept going on the first one, I thought it was looking real good! Well at least you gained experience to use on the second one!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you Blunce, you were right about the see through. I sanded all the places that needed attention and had to re-prime it. I also decided to add some more panel lines around the windshield that was originally missing. I then cleaned the surface with a hard-bristled brush and an old cotton t-shirt. Finally I applied the base colors of GSI 307 and 308:

IMG_4026.JPG

IMG_4027.JPG

IMG_4028.JPG

IMG_4029.JPG

I decided to go without any preshading. The next step will be to apply some postshading. To me, it is the most exciting part of the project. However, I have a tendency to screw it up, so I hope to take my time with it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you all! I did the first shade using Gunze 308 + some white and thinning it more than usual. I will next apply the second shade with a darker color (horizontal stabs have both shades). The current shading is not very visible as it is rather homogeneously applied, but I hope all will become more discernible as I build the layers with different shades.

IMG_4048.JPG

IMG_4051.JPG

IMG_4054.JPG

IMG_4055.JPG

IMG_4062.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Dispatcher. Sorry all for all the incremental updates but I am at the stage where I want to be more careful. I applied the darker shade:

IMG_4063.JPG

IMG_4064.JPG

IMG_4065.JPG

IMG_4067.JPG

IMG_4069.JPG

Does this look about right or shall I work on the shades a little more? As it stands, it looks a little to regular to me but I am not sure how to add more interest. Once the shades are done, I will do the decals, oil wash, and maybe very minimal pastel weathering. Also, for the first time, I will try to apply the decals with no gloss coat (or maybe a very light one) as I think the gloss coat diminishes the shades.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Sharkey. I hope to be able to see the end of this one.

After some detail painting and more shading, I finally got the decals on! Following the tips from Honza, for the first time, I did not use any gloss coat under the decals. The paint already has some sheen that also helps. I was able to use Microset and Microsol without any issues. I have found the decals to conform quite well.

IMG_4072.JPG

IMG_4073.JPG

IMG_4074.JPG

IMG_4077.JPG

I then painted the lights with MM chrome silver as a base, followed by a clear red+smoke mix color. Same for the blue lights.

IMG_4082.jpg

IMG_4083.jpg

The red edges of the gear doors are also painted by masking the white with parafilm.

IMG_4095.JPG

Edited by Janissary
Link to post
Share on other sites

The next step will be the oil wash. I have experimented with the wash on the bare paint (using a small part) and it seemed to work ok. With that, I decided to apply a coat of future only on the decals to protect them during the wash. The rest of the model will have no gloss coat. I am trying to minimize the use of gloss coats as I think they really suppress the effect of shading. I can already see this happening on the clear coated parts of the model. If all goes well, I will do the wash soon. I am also contemplating some salt weathering on the walkways but I could not decide yet.

IMG_4090.JPG

IMG_4091.JPG

IMG_4093.JPG

IMG_4094.JPG

Edited by Janissary
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...