Neo Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 Hi guys im a resin part virgin so i have a very simple question How do you remove parts from their casting blocks?? i tried with my x-acto but it got me forcing it hard .. for the cockpit tub its ok but i have some very delicate pieces including the seat tha i might end un breaking while fighting of the casting block I know there must be a technique Please help Cheers Neo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FlyingSnowmew Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 Pick up a razor saw, or saw tooth blades for your x-acto knife. I like to put a little wd-40 on the blade. It makes cutting easier. Just make sure to wash the parts well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wdw Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 I agree. Go with a razor saw of some kind. BUT my point is to always wear a good breathing mask when sanding or sawing resin. The powder dust is really bad for you. Warwick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
little-cars Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 JLC saw is the best thing for small resin blocks. It is a rasor saw, the blade is rasor blade sized and very very fine toothed blade. Small and very thin. I sell them in the UK and there is a US retailer as well. Washing detailed resin pieces, try and ultrasonic cleaner, works a treat and you don't have to handle delicate parts. Paul www.little-cars.co.uk/toolsacc.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bonehammer73 Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 How do you remove parts from their casting blocks?? X-Acto blades are fine especially on smaller parts: I use the back of the tip and scribe. Much more control and less brute force than a saw. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Huey Gunner Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 JLC saw is the best thing for small resin blocks.It is a rasor saw, the blade is rasor blade sized and very very fine toothed blade. Small and very thin. I sell them in the UK and there is a US retailer as well. Washing detailed resin pieces, try and ultrasonic cleaner, works a treat and you don't have to handle delicate parts. Paul www.little-cars.co.uk/toolsacc.htm Have to agree. The JLC saw is definitaly the "doggies dangglies" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
THX1138 Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Also, be carefull with the resin dust. It's toxic as hell. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Laurent Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 (edited) cut out the parts from the sprues, the best way to do so is using the heated (on the flame) knife. When heated resin gets very soft, but hardens back when cooling. Source: http://www.unicraft.biz/unilinks.htm Edited May 3, 2010 by Laurent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neo Posted May 6, 2010 Author Share Posted May 6, 2010 thanks for the link Laurent i like the hot blade technique But it brings me to another question Can you use normal liquid cement on resin ?? i normally use Tesor plastic model cement Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Laurent Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 Can you use normal liquid cement on resin ?? i normally use Tesor plastic model cement No. Liquid cement melts polystyrene (used in injected plasic kits), not polyurethane (resin). Use superglue or epoxy glue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundamhead Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 Use a razor saw and a few drops of water to help keep dust down. wet sand the resin parts. Clean the parts off in soapy water with a tooth brush. Use CA (Krazy Glue or epoxie to glue resin. Heated resin can burn and produce fumes which are also toxic and you have no protection except a real respirator instead of a dust mask. The heat may also warp the castings of tiny parts which you will then have to reheat to warp back into shape. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zactoman Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 I'd stay away from the hot blade thing. The fumes are noxious... As mentioned, a razor saw is usually best. You can also use a Dremel with a drum sander for larger projects, just be sure to wear a mask and vacuum the resulting dust. I also find a block sander useful. I have a chunk of plywood that I've double-face taped some 150 grit (3M gray fre-cut(? tru-cut?)) sandpaper on one side and 100 grit on the other. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aaronw Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 (edited) Also, be carefull with the resin dust. It's toxic as hell. That is a myth, cured resin is inert. The dust is an irritant so a mask is recommended but that is it. Heated resin is something else, but lots of materials release nasty fumes when heated. Here is an MSDS for one popular brand of polyurethane resin http://www.smooth-on.com/msds/files/Epoxy_Resin_EEW-190.pdf Edited May 8, 2010 by Aaronw Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tornado64 Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 dremmel with saw wheel ( not known for patience !! ) wear a mask !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Laurent Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 That is a myth, cured resin is inert. The dust is an irritant so a mask is recommended but that is it. Heated resin is something else, but lots of materials release nasty fumes when heated. If it was inert, it should be odorless right ? Dust can remain in the lungs while vapor cannot. The heated blade technique is good for removing the block but sanding is still required to adapt the resin part to the model. dremmel with saw wheel ( not known for patience !! ) wear a mask !! And glasses. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawkeye's Hobbies Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 If you don't have a saw, use a length of thread...use the thread as a cable saw. Be sure to secure the part so you can use both hand to pull the thread back and forth. Don't force it, let the thread do the cutting. I show how to use this method for cutting curves, but it can be used to remove parts from resin blocks and sprues. http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2008/07/19/h...cutting-curves/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundamhead Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 (edited) If it was inert, it should be odorless right ? Dust can remain in the lungs while vapor cannot.The heated blade technique is good for removing the block but sanding is still required to adapt the resin part to the model. And glasses. And vapor goes into the lungs and bloodstream. It's also not really vapor, but smoke. At least with dust, wet cutting and sanding along with a particulate mask can protect you. Smoke requires the appropriate cartridge respirator to protect you. Edited May 12, 2010 by Gundamhead Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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