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Removing Resin casting block


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Hi guys

im a resin part virgin so i have a very simple question

How do you remove parts from their casting blocks??

i tried with my x-acto but it got me forcing it hard .. for the cockpit tub its ok but i have some very delicate pieces including the seat tha i might end un breaking while fighting of the casting block

I know there must be a technique

Please help

Cheers

Neo

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I agree. Go with a razor saw of some kind.

BUT my point is to always wear a good breathing mask when sanding or sawing resin. The powder dust is really bad for you.

Warwick

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JLC saw is the best thing for small resin blocks.

It is a rasor saw, the blade is rasor blade sized and very very fine toothed blade. Small and very thin.

I sell them in the UK and there is a US retailer as well.

Washing detailed resin pieces, try and ultrasonic cleaner, works a treat and you don't have to handle delicate parts.

Paul

www.little-cars.co.uk/toolsacc.htm

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  • 2 weeks later...
JLC saw is the best thing for small resin blocks.

It is a rasor saw, the blade is rasor blade sized and very very fine toothed blade. Small and very thin.

I sell them in the UK and there is a US retailer as well.

Washing detailed resin pieces, try and ultrasonic cleaner, works a treat and you don't have to handle delicate parts.

Paul

www.little-cars.co.uk/toolsacc.htm

Have to agree. The JLC saw is definitaly the "doggies dangglies"
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thanks for the link Laurent

i like the hot blade technique

But it brings me to another question

Can you use normal liquid cement on resin ?? i normally use Tesor plastic model cement

Cheers

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Can you use normal liquid cement on resin ?? i normally use Tesor plastic model cement

No. Liquid cement melts polystyrene (used in injected plasic kits), not polyurethane (resin). Use superglue or epoxy glue.

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Use a razor saw and a few drops of water to help keep dust down. wet sand the resin parts. Clean the parts off in soapy water with a tooth brush. Use CA (Krazy Glue or epoxie to glue resin.

Heated resin can burn and produce fumes which are also toxic and you have no protection except a real respirator instead of a dust mask. The heat may also warp the castings of tiny parts which you will then have to reheat to warp back into shape.

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I'd stay away from the hot blade thing. The fumes are noxious...

As mentioned, a razor saw is usually best.

You can also use a Dremel with a drum sander for larger projects, just be sure to wear a mask and vacuum the resulting dust.

I also find a block sander useful. I have a chunk of plywood that I've double-face taped some 150 grit (3M gray fre-cut(? tru-cut?)) sandpaper on one side and 100 grit on the other.

:rofl:

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Also, be carefull with the resin dust. It's toxic as hell.

That is a myth, cured resin is inert. The dust is an irritant so a mask is recommended but that is it. Heated resin is something else, but lots of materials release nasty fumes when heated.

Here is an MSDS for one popular brand of polyurethane resin

http://www.smooth-on.com/msds/files/Epoxy_Resin_EEW-190.pdf

Edited by Aaronw
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That is a myth, cured resin is inert. The dust is an irritant so a mask is recommended but that is it. Heated resin is something else, but lots of materials release nasty fumes when heated.

If it was inert, it should be odorless right ? Dust can remain in the lungs while vapor cannot.

The heated blade technique is good for removing the block but sanding is still required to adapt the resin part to the model.

dremmel with saw wheel ( not known for patience !! ) wear a mask !!

And glasses.

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If you don't have a saw, use a length of thread...use the thread as a cable saw. Be sure to secure the part so you can use both hand to pull the thread back and forth. Don't force it, let the thread do the cutting. I show how to use this method for cutting curves, but it can be used to remove parts from resin blocks and sprues.

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2008/07/19/h...cutting-curves/

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If it was inert, it should be odorless right ? Dust can remain in the lungs while vapor cannot.

The heated blade technique is good for removing the block but sanding is still required to adapt the resin part to the model.

And glasses.

And vapor goes into the lungs and bloodstream. It's also not really vapor, but smoke. At least with dust, wet cutting and sanding along with a particulate mask can protect you. Smoke requires the appropriate cartridge respirator to protect you.

Edited by Gundamhead
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