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How to spray future


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This should probably be a sticky thread since I know it's been asked dozens of times. However, I can't find much specific info using the search function.

For the record, what is the best way to airbrush this stuff? I typically thin it 50% with water but I thought I read somewhere that it helps to add a very small amount of dish soap? Can't remember the specifics and I might be completely mistaken. So before I gloss coat my model, I just wanted to consult with the experts.

John

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John,

I air brush Pledge/Future 1:1 with Windex-D applying 1st a few mist coats, then a few heavier coats. I let it dry for a few hours, then a final coat cut 1:2. I'm using a Paasche -H air brush @ 16 psi flow pressure (that's the PSI when the air button is depressed). I do lightly polish out the surface the following day with a soft cloth.

Joel

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John,

I air brush Pledge/Future 1:1 with Windex-D applying 1st a few mist coats, then a few heavier coats. I let it dry for a few hours, then a final wet coat cut 1:2. I'm using a Paasche -H air brush @ 16 psi flow pressure (that's the PSI when the air button is depressed). I do lightly polish out the surface the following day with a soft cloth.

Joel

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John,

I air brush Pledge/Future 1:1 with Windex-D applying 1st a few mist coats, then a few heavier coats. I let it dry for a few hours, then a final wet coat cut 1:2. I'm using a Paasche -H air brush @ 16 psi flow pressure (that's the PSI when the air button is depressed). I do lightly polish out the surface the following day with a soft cloth.

Joel

Don't have "Windex-D" in the house but I do have a generic, blue tinted glass cleaner. Is that what you are referring to?

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I spray it straight, without thinning. Do not use any kind of a retarder or flow aid. Like all gloss coats, it's tricky to get the right coverage, though Future is more forgiving than some. I find I prefer to apply it in a fairly heavy coat, others find building up mist coats works best for them. I suspect it has a LOT to do with the ambient conditions. Unless you work in a climate controlled environment, these can vary enough to cause problems at different times of the year. If in doubt, spray a paint hulk with it before spraying your model to get the hang of it.

Probably the most important thing with any clear, gloss or flat, is to use strong raking (at a steep angle from the side) illumination to create a glare on the wet surface. When you see the light glaring from the surface, stop. The glare means you have applied enough, and any more will cause runs. If you see a run, wick it away immediately with a lint-free paper towel. This often saves the situation. If not, you can sometimes fix it by judicious (light, at low pressure) spray application of 90% isopropyl alcohol. This has to be done as soon as the Future has become tacky, but not before.

Hope this helps.

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Here is an already pinned topic of this:

http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=63929

Personally, I thin it with windex 50/50 when I need a very glossy finish (I don't always need that). Generally, I use about 30% windex just to eliminate the pebbly finish of future. I always put windex first in the airbrush, then add future on top of it and mix. Sometimes a flush coat of pure windex also helps level out future.

Edited by Janissary
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Don't have "Windex-D" in the house but I do have a generic, blue tinted glass cleaner. Is that what you are referring to?

John,

Generally speaking yes. It's whatever the wife buys that I use. The cleaning agent is Ammonia heavily diluted in water. The blue color is just a tint for effect. Some have a Lemon scent, I have no idea of what they add for the smell, so I don't use that stuff.

Joel

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I recommend brushing Future.

The problem I have with hand brushing on Future is that you end up applying a rather thick coat that will just about fill all the fine recessed panel lines, making is rather hard to get a nice covering pin wash.

Joel

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I've started brushing on future and it works well for me. What really helped was when i drastically reduced the amount I brushed on. It's almost the equivalent of dry brushing with future. I don't have to worry about runs and I don't have issues with panels filling with future. The only downside is it takes longer because I need to apply a few coats to get a glossy enough finish.

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I've started brushing on future and it works well for me. What really helped was when i drastically reduced the amount I brushed on. It's almost the equivalent of dry brushing with future. I don't have to worry about runs and I don't have issues with panels filling with future. The only downside is it takes longer because I need to apply a few coats to get a glossy enough finish.

Falcon20driver,

If it works for you, then stick with it.

Joel

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