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1/32 BF 109K-4 In Progress: UPDATE 27FEB15 Oil Dot Weathing First Ever


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Waiting for a decal set to arrive...I grabbed this out of the bag for a quick OOB build. Spent the day on the cockpit. From plain RLM66 (actually Floquil Weathered Black) to what you see finished inserted into the fuselage. This will be a strictly OOB build, the seat belts aren't close to accurate. I put these in just to add some visual pop to the cockpit since unfortunately not many kit-makers put belts in their kits. These are actually made out of that thin foil that covers large yogurt containers. Pretty much just like wine bottle foil, but I found it easier to work with for some reason.

Cheers

Collin

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Edited by Collin
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Good job on the cockpit. I am particularly impressed with your weathering and seat belts, they look realistic to me. I'll have to pick up some yoghurt foil myself, much cheaper alternative than an expensive bottle of wine, but perhaps not as enjoyable.

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Gotta admit that I'm not use to seeing a 1/32 kit as a quick OOB build. So I'll be following along out of curiosity, plus I'm a prop man at heart. Nice job weathering the cockpit. Your seatbelts look more then just ok to me, really a nice job weathering them.

Joel

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  • 2 weeks later...

After a week or so of on and off construction, got down to getting some paint on my -109K-4

Started with some preshading.

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Then painted the RLM 85 (???) I think folks call it... used Duck Egg Green instead, looked like a close match for some online builds I saw.

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I have gotten into the habit of using the two very very fine pads you see here to give a quick sand to my coats of paint(after they cure for the night in the warm basement). Hope you can see that in the photos.

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Now the second color, RLM76. Basically the same process of painting, center of the panels

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Spraying in the normal way of hitting the center of the panel lines then misting over the entire area until the preshading just shows through. In the morning I will hit that color with the pads and smooth everything down. I use Mr. Leveling Thinner and the stuff is gold.

After a couple of passes...then I pull the airbrush back and spray the entire area (after this photo was taken, I sprayed the entire horizontal tail and blended it all together.

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Edited by Collin
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Interesting painting procedures. I really need to see about finding those pads.

Joel

Head to your local grocery store and they should be in the kitchen cleaning supply area, that's where I found mine (gotta be thinking about something while doing the shopping).

Cheers

Collin

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Head to your local grocery store and they should be in the kitchen cleaning supply area, that's where I found mine (gotta be thinking about something while doing the shopping).

Cheers

Collin

Colin,

thanks, and will do. I do the food shopping these days as my wife really can't handle those trips to the food store any more.

Joel

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Main colors on. Hard to airbrush in a cold-soaked 50 degree model room (that's what my heater can get it up to). RLM 81/83 with back and forth touch ups of the Duck Egg Green and RLM 76. For those of you that think this airbrush job is one pass and done....NOPE, a lot of touch ups after the colors are on. I have a PITA crack that keeps appearing on the port wing root, so on went the Tenex again and the Tamiya surfacer to try and smooth it out (and then touch up with RLM 81 again). Next job is the defense band (made up green color since I don't have that RLM color in the stash)....and masks/spray the RLM 02 in the wheel wells, slat trenches.

Cheers

Collin

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Persistent crack on the port wing root finally won me over. I had to break the entire seam and fill it with sheet plastic...then glue it all back together. Once dry, hit it with some Mr. Surfacer 1000 then repaint. Final results here. Went a little "off the reservation" and added the yellow band on the nose. I have one profile of Red 7 with this late war marking. I thought the entire aircraft looks a little "dull" without it...so I took the liberty to add it on. Brightens up the build a little.

Cheers

Collin

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A most impressive camo paint scheme. Usually I don't like the final effects of preshading, as it's too stark and geometric, but yours really looks quite natural. Well done, very well done. And a great save on that pesky wing root seam. Took a lot of fortitude to break open that joint line and start over from scratch. Certainly well worth the time and effort.

Joel

Edited by Joel_W
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  • 2 weeks later...

Looking really good. For the Dot method, you're going to be using a lot of mineral spirits to move the oils around. Are you using enamel paints or artist oils? The artist oils will be workable for a good day or so. The enamel paints will dry much sooner. Just make sure that you seal what you've weathered to date with a non-compatible clear gloss like Pledge or Glosscoat. Less is more when it comes to the Dot method. Looking forward to seeing your results.

Joel

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I was going to use Windsor-Newton oils with mineral spirits (then just let it dry in the furnace room), already have a dusting of semi-gloss over my initial weathering (photos were taken just after that coat).

I'm going through all my model books (mostly armor ones) to read up on the oil-dot method. Only a few of my model aircraft references cover that method.

My hope is the technique will sorta bring things together...kind of line a uniform weathered appearance.

Cheers

Collin

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I was going to use Windsor-Newton oils with mineral spirits (then just let it dry in the furnace room), already have a dusting of semi-gloss over my initial weathering (photos were taken just after that coat).

I'm going through all my model books (mostly armor ones) to read up on the oil-dot method. Only a few of my model aircraft references cover that method.

My hope is the technique will sorta bring things together...kind of line a uniform weathered appearance.

Cheers

Collin

Colin,

In my armor days, the Dot method was one of main weathering techniques.

Since you're going to be using artist oils, place a dollop of each color on a piece of cardboard, and leave it there for a while. The cardboard will draw out and soak up the excess Linseed oil. The more Linseed oil in the oils, the longer it will take for the paint to actually dry and cure, which could take days if not a week or so. Just use random colors of dots, then using a lot of Mineral Spirits start to work the oils in a directional pattern. On the sides use up and down not right or left. On flat surfaces try to create a more random effect with blotches rather then creating a overall brushed on wash. One nice thing about the Dot method is that you can easily add more or remove too much.

Joel

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Well here we are. First time I ever attempted this Oil Dot Filter technique. I don't know if I am fully sold on it yet. Luckily I am doing a late war 109K-4 with a lot of wear and tear...and dirt from being out in the open going from field to field as the Allies and Russians close in on both sides (that's my story).

Using Windsor & Newton oils with Turpenoid (over a base of semi-gloss acrylic) you can see the dots and my washing away of the oil paint. I was probably a little too lite on the Turp and didn't wash as much away as I needed. One other thing that happened....it shifted the lighter colors to a slightly yellow/brown tint. Not too bad for this weathered bird, but I might not use yellow oil dots next time. I used the smaller flat brush for the Turp washing off, and I let it dry for a few minutes and then started working the oil with the larger flat head brush. I started with the bottom of the aircraft, then the wings, followed by the fuselage streaking with the wind on the wings and up/down on the fuselage. Turp and oil paint had no reaction with the underlying acrylic semi-gloss coat.

Dots

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Washing it away

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Right wing down with the filter, left wing still untouched. Can you tell the difference?

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The two brushes

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Fuselage with dots being washed away (too much yellow on this side)

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Bottom after the oil dot filter work

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Top after the oil dot filter work

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Then I overcoated the aircraft with a light coat of semi-gloss again and used a combo of Tamiya Smoke and some other dark paints to dirty up the aircraft (exhaust, messy belly from oil and engine gunk, some gun powder residue). Here she is now as she dries in the basement.

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The difference between the right and left wing is like night and day. The Dot filter looks so much more realistic in scale. Unfiltered paint just has that museum type finish to it, which is fine if that's what you're looking for. The finished weathering is just perfect. Not overly done, so that one gets the sense of a "used but not abused" operational aircraft. Very nicely done.

Joel

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