Jump to content

compressorman

Members
  • Content Count

    237
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by compressorman

  1. On 11/12/2019 at 9:57 PM, Mstor said:

    I use Tamiya X-22 thinned 50/50 with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Light coat first, then a wet coat followed by a flash coat of just thinner to smooth everything out. Gives a perfect smooth high gloss finish. For flat coat I use Testors Flat Coat lacquer. Been using it for years and it has never failed me.

     

    I have read that this gives some really good results. I am guessing that Mr Leveling Thinner must be a slower drying lacquer type thinner?? So you cannot get as good of a result by spraying a coat of straight Tamiya lacquer thinner over a finished coat of gloss? 

     

    Chris

  2. I have typically use future as a pre-decal gloss coat but always wonder if there is something better whenever I apply it. I have also always used Testors Dullcote in the little spray can for my final flat but would like to use an airbrush applied finish. I recently tried mission models gloss but it tried to goop up in the AB which caused a panic moment, so I am wondering about it. I have considered trying tamiya flat but have read a lot of stuff about people saying that it can be bad about frosting on you and sometimes it wants to stay sticky. Can anyone tell me what has worked for them in a consistent way so that they are not afraid to use it on a model that you have worked on for months?

  3. 1 minute ago, Curt B said:

    I just looked up the Badger Sotar airbrush, and it's really cool looking, and gets good reviews.  One thing that I don't understand is the pricing.  I noted that Spraygunners sells it for $90, while Coast Airbrush, where I've purchased most of my airbrushes, sells what appears to be the same airbrush, for $306, over 3 times the price!  What's up with that?

    I don’t know, another reason to buy it!! Lol. Thank you for the compliment on that tank btw. It only lasted a few months before he wrecked the bike. I had to paint another just like the first one.

  4. 2 hours ago, Curt B said:

     So, do you NEED another airbrush for fine work?  I would tell you no, but might it make life easier?  I'm guessing the answer is yes.

     

    You are so right, perhaps I phrased my initial question badly. It should have been 'I want another ab, would this work?' 🙂  My Eclipse is pretty sweet and certainly capable of more than I am. I painted this for a customer long ago with a Passche VL with a gigantic medium tip (not sure of the actual size) and I find my Eclipse much more capable than the VL, al least for detail.

     

    tank2.jpg

  5. 13 hours ago, Kurt H. said:

    First of all, what kind of paint do you prefer to use?

     

    The badger Sotar 20/20 really changed the way I paint models, and opened up a lot of possibilities for me. I use Lacquers, and with very thin lacquers you can spray very fine lines, which makes freehand camo much easier.  If you want to try black basing and marble coating,  it is much easier with a super fine airbrush.  

     

    I love the sotar and recommend it.  Badger also has the Rengade Krome, which has the same needle geometry, but a longer body.  You can also consider the Mr. Hobby PS-770, and the Iwata Custom Micron. 

     

    I prefer the short nose of the Sotar, but your preferences may vary.   I hope it helps.

     

     

    I pretty much use Mission Models paint, and sometimes Vallejo. That is my worry, will this thick acrylic go through that teensy nozzle without continuous trouble. I know what you are talking about with thin paint. I used to paint motorcycle tanks and helmets with House of Kolor and it was probably thinner than water. A dream to spray!

     

  6. I have a Badger 155 (siphon) that I use for primers and my beloved Iwata HP-CS that I use for everything else. I was wondering if I am really missing out by not having an ultra-fine ab to use occasionally ?  Ihave thought about the H and S infinity but it is in the 'holy cow!' price range.I have also looked at the Badger Sotar fine (only $90} which seems super affordable and gets great reviews.  I do freehand camo and enjoy painting minis and my eclipse has done everything I need it to do. But I have never used a finer brush than the eclipse and wonder what kind of difference it would make?

     

    Edit:

    I should say that i pretty much just use acrylics, mostly mission models paint. I certainly would not want to buy an ab that would not spray my preferred paint

     

    Chris

  7. Hooker,

    I used a technique on a ww1 plane I built that might work for you. Do not use a wash, use an entirely different color for the stain, airbrush it on in a really thin mix and use the AB to blow it around. Look at the castor stains on the wings and fuselage of my Fokker and DH2

    image.jpg

    IMG_1486.jpg

     

    There are a lot of pics on a forum devoted to ww1 planes,      Fokker

    Chris

     

     

×
×
  • Create New...