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  2. Seems right. Also known as "Boeing gray" and used on the E-3 Sentry (AWACS) and E-8 Joint Stars. I still have a couple of bottles of MM saved up!
  3. My research indicated P-8As are painted Gloss Canadian Voodoo Grey FS16515. Can anyone confirm that?
  4. Here is a video of Little Bird and 160th Blackhawk activity during Op Urgent Fury. The Little Birds appear at about 48:34. The start of the video also has footage of the crash of a Night Stalkers Blackhawk early in the video. Cpt Keith Lucas would loose his life in that crash, sadly. I wonder was GT one of the AH-6C pilots in this footage? LD.
  5. I'm gonna have to go with the "it depends" answer. True, a good number of parts on the market now are being produced by liquid resin 3d printers, but that's still not always the case. Shapeways does offer parts that are still supported with wax and while yes they do say they "clean" the parts before shipping, as many can attests, their cleaning process isn't always so complete and the dreaded "wax ghost frost" still can pop up. I'd recommend getting in contact with who ever sold you the parts and finding out for sure what processes were used to print them. Also, even some FDM prints of certain
  6. Today
  7. Jon, Better pack it all up, Ian is coming! I'm battening down the hatches and getting everything up 3 ft. in the house. I'll deal with any flooding when I get back. Hope that you fare well brother! K/r, Dutch
  8. Thanks crackerjazz, yes the booth works really well. Steve
  9. Very good, thanks for the clarification Dave. Steve
  10. oortiz10, Thanks for posting your pictures of the show. Very nicely done. Take care & keep building, Mr. Happy
  11. Glad you got it sorted out. Xtreme Metal is a really nice paint....Now if new Eduard decals would cooperate I could great finish on their P-51. I saw some post on youtube to deal with the clear film. You let is sit for 24hrs. Then with a white/mineral spirits soaked Q-tip you rub off the film. It's supposed to ball up and lift off with no damage to the decal or surface. Not sure how AK-EM will react so I plan to test this before I start rubbing it all over the painted surface... I have a feeling it may not be compatible but we shall see.
  12. Here are a couple of screenshots taken from a video of the FineMolds president talking about new models to be shown the forthcoming Tokyo model extravaganza at the end of the month. Most certainly not Shigeo Koike quality, but the F-4J art is passable ... the distorted F-4C, however, not so much! Gene K
  13. Ah yes, I forgot to mention that MRP is airbrush-only. It's far too thin to paint, and the high solvent content will attack the plastic if you try brush-painting. Rob
  14. I switched over to lacquers this year when I got back to building after taking a hiatus for the move. Could not be happier! And don’t limit yourself to MRP. I use MRP and Mr. Color. MRP you can only airbrush while Mr. Color you have to thin to spray, which gives you the option of some brush touch ups and small details. Im a former paint and bodyman from back in the lacquer days and I use the same tricks on my paint work as we did on cars. Painted this one Friday
  15. Cool large scale! Great to see your paint booth is working beautifully.
  16. Hi Tony PM is 'Personal Message' - sort of internal (ARC) email. Click on the envelope icon at the top of this thread. Or use my 'real' email :- kenduffey@flankers-site.co.uk Regards Ken
  17. The Air-Graphics ad was a 'heads up' of what the "competition" this side of the pond is doing, Kursad - but judging by the results of searching their products and yours at Hannants, their sheet will likely be about 50% more expensive... ....assuming that the Pound's current downward slide against the Dollar doesn't go much further, of course!
  18. I've ordered numerous sheets from them in the past, they have always delivered, despite the lack of shipping confirmations.
  19. There are a couple problems with all of what you posted. First, and what should have been the most obvious by simply reading it all, is all of those links discussed the cleaning of the parts after they were produced. A couple of them quite literally mentioned cleaning the parts to make them usable. Once that process is completed, the end user does not have to clean anything as it's already been done. I also mentioned this in my first response. Second, most of the 3D printing technologies discussed in your links are completely different than what most of us are using to
  20. By Federal law Boeing doesn't own the blue prints for the F18 or whatever! You are notified right away in a bottom corner of the blue print as soon as you lay your hands on it. They own the part and also the processes used. When somebody says they had access to the OEM blue prints I know instantly it's a lie! An engineer taking a roll of drawings home will get stopped at the gate while they check him out (it's allowed with a special pass). I have seen at least one guy leave the building in hand cuffs that was scanning a blue print that he didn't have permission to view. Also know of seve
  21. CF104 & Spook498 pretty much nailed it with their posts. I don't work on RAAF -35's but I do work on one of our Army helo types, of which the body is coated in a IR paint. Most of our panels are secured by either cadmium-plated tech screws (aka as torque screws) or turn-loks. Almost always when these fasteners are swapped out with new BDS, we don't putty over them but they do get coated with the airframe paint. I ack not the same a/c but the concept of maintaining the integrity of the IR function of the airframe remains. Hope there's something in my post that helps
  22. I know they are an aluminum COLOR, but I don't remember what kind of metal they are that withstands high heat. Tim
  23. Or could it even be titanium? I know the engine firewalls of the military helo I work on are made from this material. And then when we have to participate in a maritime environment, we coat the surface with a product called Bonderite which is similar in colour to Dk Dull Green or Bronze Green
  24. These pics aren't exactly plastic shots, so no need to worry about formation lights just yet 😉
  25. Found a few pages which look to do a good job of covering what I was thinking earlier. They do lean a bit toward doing the original cleaning on parts you have printed yourself. https://www.fictiv.com/articles/methods-for-cleaning-3d-parts and https://printingit3d.com/how-to-clean-up-your-3d-printed-miniatures/ and https://all3dp.com/2/cleaning-3d-prints-post-processing/
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