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  2. The RLM 76 bottom color is done.
  3. Today
  4. I did that method for the Italeri kit and had good results.
  5. +1 for the inevitable 1/72 Invader sheet.
  6. This... I wonder if you could somehow design someway for the extra window in the fuselage?
  7. That's all interesting stuff about the manuals and having to stick to a standard. Technical writing is not easy. As a modeling resource, they're a gold mine, and the diagrams are the biggest nuggets. Finally got to work more on the weapons and mounts. In addition to Gunny's pictures in this thread, here's a picture of an Alpha or Delta I found helpful of the crew door mount showing its position relative to the bottom half of the door in the closed position. Note it's centered. Here's the port gun mount from the Eagle Claw film, and it's offset to give clea
  8. Doh! Thanks, Scooby for the hint. I almost considered building this one without the engine, and just glueing the prop in place. I would have used the panels and the frames, but not the engine at all. I am not a builder who likes to show off an engine - I prefer my aircraft in a ready-to-jump-in and fly state. 🙂 Yup, we've settled into our new home in St Hyacinthe, on the South Shore of Montreal. Close to the kids (who both live on the Island). Life is good - now I just need more time to build! ALF
  9. Does anyone do a 32nd scale deck section with the catapult and blast deflector? Or at least a pdf of plans to be able to make one? I can imagine it would probably be pretty big. Thanks, Chris
  10. Great! I was hoping you were going to, since you made one for the Italeri kit.
  11. The only annoying thing about AirCrap’s MiG-17F kit is that if you have the chance, have the technology, then why NOT MAKE IT PROPERLY??? Doing your work, do it right! Some one is getting payed for this "work". I am sure sometime they do make kits which are better, but this is not one of them! For this particular example they did not even do minimal research for the decal. Very sad!!! It is understandable when a kit manufacturer is making the decals / marking options for a WW2 Spitfire, Me-109 or Mustang . . . from just one single bad quality, miniature Black/White photo. It
  12. I can't say as I am not an engineer or student thereof. I know a lot of planes have this type of set up where the 2 doors open and when the wheel is down one shuts more or less to keep FOD or critters out. I have no idea where I read this but it is too late as the door is glued shut. As far as I am concerned it is a "one of" test bird for that very function. I cannot prove this one way or the other. I continue to surf the web and try to find where and who wrote this. Gotta love a great web mystery!
  13. Legend makes pilots and gunners, not exactly for this kit but probably would work I also think PJ Productions make some too
  14. The 1/72 P-3C kit could use a lot of help. First it needs corrected wheel wells. Second it needs all the modern antennas upgrades and the nose IR turret. P-3C Orion Antennas.. Scott CNJC-IPMS
  15. Thanks for the tutorial…I meant to write dihedral. I am not sure how I used the wrong term. I have changed the topic title to the correct one, and also updated the text of all my posts, and identified what I did and why in the ‘reason for edit’ boxes so I don’t make those who replied sound incorrect. I appreciate the help!!!! I meant to say that this kit seems to have its wings at a MORE exaggerated upward angle than the real plane, or at least compared to line drawings of the aircraft or compared to the Tamiya kit. I know comparing kit to kit is not a good way to verify anything, but it w
  16. The frameless windshield will be released by BAM Models in August 😉
  17. The correct term is dihedral. Anhedral is more the jet age. The only thing really wrong on the Mini Art kit is the prop, 8 inches too large in diameter with a too small hub. The gear sit looks a little tall, even on the compressed option. The wheels are a tad skinny. The real Mg were not perfectly parallel to the ground, but they were closer than the kit. They missed being dead flat by about 5 inches per side, or 2.5 mm. The kit is more like 4-5 mm. Mini Art having far more accurate clear parts than the Tamiya bears repeating.
  18. For the sake of us all, do it! LOL Just kidding. I used the Monogram kit on mine as Tamiya had yet to release their gorgeous kit. And Cobra had also yet to release their resin cockpit. It turned out OK. I'm in the process of reshening it up (tail markings, weapons and wheels) and will post some pics when I'm done.
  19. Correct engines for a 1/48 C-21 Learjet (to fit the Hasegawa/Revell kit) would be a wonderful accompaniment to CD48096. Jon
  20. For ten years I've had a Tamiya kit, the Matchbox kit, Cobra plus a bunch of other detail parts, and the Caracal decal sheet. I continue to hold off on a Bernie Fisher project in the hope of a new, quality A-1E kit coming out. I suppose I should just go ahead and start cutting up both kits which would probably result in the immediate release of the new Pilot-Replicas kit.
  21. Eagle Cals have a 1/32 Buzz Beurling Spit Mk IX decals sheet, missing on the above decal sheet is the kill markings on the nose. Nice build!
  22. Are you talking actual anhedral (wings angled downwards) or lack of sufficient dihedral (wings angled upwards)? I've never seen the kit or a build in the flesh, and it's really hard to tell from photos, but I think perhaps the photos at the end of Cat Barf's links might show less dihedral than needed; certainly not angled downward however.
  23. Hey Alf, great to see you building. You must be settled in your new home in Montreal. I know why your panels didn’t line up perfectly, the firewall needs to be pushed fully back on the tabs, any slight misalignment of the firewall will result in panels that don’t fit, I almost didn’t have my firewall properly seated.
  24. Hello, Dai I'm following your progress on this issue; I plan to use the X-treme metallics on a future project, so I'm taking some considerations beforehand that might be useful to you. These are enamel paints and might take days to fully cure, depending on application and ambient factors. I consider enamel paints somewhat "hot," so any underlying coat should be fully cured to prevent it from reacting with it. Enamels could adhere well to bare plastic, eliminating, in some cases, the need for a primer and taking advantage of a well-polished surface to mini
  25. Thanks for the info. I hadn’t recalled seeing any discussion about the wing dihedral either, which I find truly amazing with all the rivet counters on the ‘net. I am absolutely NOT one of those, hence my surprise at finding what appears to me to be a significant divergence from accuracy for this airplane. Other than that, the build and detail has been pretty much fine, though I must say that construction of the engine cowl was far more fiddly than I think a new mold plane should have.
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