Alcohol based lacquer, I believe. Once I found out they airbrush better with Mr. Color Leveling thinner or Tamiya lacquer thinner too, it opened a whole new door for me. I've airbrushed water based acrylics with limited success, but prefer lacquers and enamels. I have yet to try something like Mission Models acrylics. I hear they are very good, but I'm hooked on lacquers like Mr Color, MRP and AKAN solvent based lacquer (they make a water based acrylic one too). I use Vallejo for brush painting details. One nice thing about AKAN paints is that you can get the same color in lacquer and water based paint. I spray with the lacquer based and touch up or paint small parts using a brush with the water based paint of the same color.
Update on the Hasegawa OV-10A: I added some lead wire to the cockpit to replicate the amole wiring harness that is visible in typical Bronco cockpits and repainted everything.
I also removed the stub wings and weapons stations since this is a civil fire spotter.
I dry-fit the main fuselage to the tail and wing assembly, but will paint these two assemblies separately. Getting there...
Scratch built! Wow!
I'm about to take my first journey into Sci Fi modelling trying to replicate this Frank Frazetta pic in a diorama in 1/48 scale. It will be all scratch built, using spare bits where I can.
if you can find the decals, I think these look pretty cool too:
Just to confuse things a bit more, Tamiya acrylics are actually lacquer based, and I find they spray better with the Tamiya lacquer (yellow cap) thinner than with the Tamiya acrylic (blue cap) thinner - less tip drying with the lacquer thinner.
As for enamels, in general I think they spray better than any acrylic, but they are way more smelly. Following my last post above about problems spraying Model Master enamels mixed with Tamiya enamel thinner, I tried them with the Testors enamel thinner recently and hey presto, problem solved, they spray beautifully.
I need to sharpen the edges in a few small spots, but aside from that, the topside camo is finished.
Next up are the canards and stabilizers, and then on to the engines. I guess I should fix that nose cone at some point too...
Am I safe in assuming that the overall gray for the black ID markings scheme on the USN C-130Ts:
is the same gray (FS 25237) that is specified for the earlier light gray ID markings scheme:
In these pics, the earlier scheme's gray looks a bit more blue, but in most photos, the two grays look the same.
Another question - what changes were made when some -Ts received 8-blade props?
Lol. I think you might be right. I turned that entire area upside down multiple times. It’s impossible for that part to go missing. Somewhere up in the rafters of my house, that gremlin is laughing his / her / it’s butt off
F/S 2 hot European twins
Complete and unstarted.
1.Zvezda Russian Pe-2
2.ICM Do-215 Nightfighter
50.00 plus shipping takes em both
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The Hound Dog pylons were repurposed with adapter beams & MERs for conventional weapons and were retired in the late 90s/early 2000s. Based on photos, I believe the conventional Hound Dog pylon was limited to unguided bombs that were 750 lb class or less. An advantage of the current stub pylon configured with 9 ejector racks is that it can carry up to 5000 lb class weapons such as GBU-28, as well as guided weapons requiring umbilicals for the data bus.
I found this one of her at Fairford on Flickr.
Boeing KC-135Q Stratofortress by Nigel Musgrove, on Flickr
I do believe it's quite rare for a J 57 engined one. There may have been more Q's like this, not too sure about A's.