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neu

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Posts posted by neu

    Rescribing panel lines, and Tamiya's ExThin Cement

    in Tools 'n' Tips

    Posted

    And here comes the magic. I used Tamiya's Extra Thin Cement to blend the very small, dustlike excess material to the line.

    Neu,

    I'm sorry, but I don't understand why you would want to do that..?

    What's the advantage here..?

    Are you saying you are filling the lines again???

    /Jorgen

    as it's an extra thin cement, it wont fill the line (if you're taking care about the amount of glue on the small bush). It melts the plastica bit, and make smoother edges. I applied a coat of Gunze Surfacer, and it's perfect!

    Greetings, neu

    Rescribing panel lines, and Tamiya's ExThin Cement

    in Tools 'n' Tips

    Posted

    Few months before I've started a topic about rescribing full planes that is not an easy task. There were lot of comments, and ideas (thanks for them!)

    Today I've tried one of them, as I had to test my new verlinden scribing template. I tested it on an EA-6B wing (as I'll use the wingfold set from CE). I used the original panel lines as guides for the linear panel lines, and the template for some small hatches. After I hade the base, I've sanded the original ones, and made the new panel lines a bit deeper, with Bare Metal's Scriber. It's a very good tool. And here comes the magic. I used Tamiya's Extra Thin Cement to blend the very small, dustlike excess material to the line. It's working perfectly, and if you take care about the amount of cement, it wont show up after basecoating.

    I hope it helps you folks :)

    Happy Modeling

    Greetings, neu

    Good Trader List

    in Good Trader Alert

    Posted

    This is my updated good trader list. Only the guys that I already closed succesful deal's with. There are some of them with pending deals, theye're not here now. I'll update again if they're closed our businnes. You can trust all these guys. Maybe here are some missing of the locations, I'm writing it out of my head now, so sorry if anybody missing from the list this time!

    Patrcik Spitaels / Belgium

    Lyle Katchur / Canda (I hope

    Ken Middleton / USA

    Rick Geisler / USA

    Bob Binder / USA

    John Bibay / USA

    Fabio D'Angelo / Brazil

    Andrew Renshaw / USA

    Fred Krause / USA

    Dan Jackson / USA

    Dawid Howard / USA (e-bay)

    John Tooley / USA

    Gabor Barna / Hungary

    Istvan Zsoldos / Hungary

    Jim Worley / USA

    Greetings, neu

    What is the best resin for casting difficult parts

    in Tools 'n' Tips

    Posted

    Thank you guys for the advices!

    William G.

    Do you have a vacuum chamber? I've casted some stuffs, but I have problems with bubbles. Next time I'll try my friend's tip for a home vacuum chamber, that is based on a simply hoover :huh: The only problem with my resin is that is hardens too fast. What is about Alumalite? What is the hardening time? And how liquid is it?

    Dani

    I'm from hungary, my name "neu" is just a short name of my nick, neutron B) I've checked the site you gave me, but I cannot understand even not a single word :o The resin I use is the 1:1 too, but it hardens too fast. I need a resin with slower hardening, and more liquid.

    Greetings, neu

    What is the best resin for casting difficult parts

    in Tools 'n' Tips

    Posted

    I'm wondering what is the best resin for casting difficult parts? I have tried Sika's BiResin G26 (Europe), amd it's not that bad. The only problem that I need more liquid, it's not thin enough, and hardens too fast. It would be great to know where to get the best resin for that purpose (I think they know that at Black Box and Cutting Egde B) Of Course I know that it doesn't depends on the resin only.

    Happy Modeling!

    Greetings, neu

    Scratch building 1/48 AIM-120's

    in Tools 'n' Tips

    Posted

    Yes you're right. But I didn't told it's a fault, I just told that it has 10% difference, and it's visible. Maybe you wont find out what is not correct, but you may feel it when you look at it. BTW it's a much cheaper way than the beutiul SOL sets.

    Happy Modeling B)

    neu

    How to mask curved shapes?

    in Tools 'n' Tips

    Posted

    Neu,

    I was dragged to my wife's scrapbooking store and there I found a semi transparent film called MASKING MAGIC.  It is similar to frisket paper.  It bends to about any surface.  I just did an F-15 with it and just put it on a Prowler.

    Comes off easy with no residue or bleed under.

    Just a thought.

    Rod

    Rod

    Could you describe me what is that exactly? Maybe it's becouse of my bad english, but I cannot figure out what material is it :thumbsup: I never found a material that bends in ALL direction and suitable for masking curved shapes on curved surfaces, like a curved antiglare panel on an F-14 for example (or the darker gray area on today's F-14 above the 200 Here)

    Greetings, neu

    what is the best color for tires

    in Tools 'n' Tips

    Posted

    I would prefer this: Mix some black + gunship gray + raw umber. Make a dark mixture, almost black. Use it with flat+some semigloss finish for the base (it should be 10-15% gloss). After that you can mix that colors again, but with more brown, and lighter. It would go to the "rolling surface" (sorry I don't tknow the exact term for that in english). This time you should make a flat finish to this area. Hope this helps!

    Greetings, neu

    Need your input about the Future

    in Tools 'n' Tips

    Posted

    We have TESCO here, we have Johnson & Johnson, but I'm pretty sure that J&J is not thinkin on the modelers here in hungary...I've checked all the names you guys told, and I have found nothing :thumbsup: I'm wondering if I can find some similar floor polish stuffs, as tere are lot of them. What is the speciality of this Future? Has anybody tried similar but not exaclty the same products? I have checked In Slovakia, and in Austria too near the borders, but nothing ;)

    Greetings, neu

    Rescribing a full plane

    in Tools 'n' Tips

    Posted

    Last night I've finished preparing my Viking to preshading. I rescribed some panel lines at some critical places. It looks very nice, there are new lines connected to existing original ones, but I cannot recognize the border! First I have used a simply metal scriber with Vidia pin (I'm not sure it's clear in english) guided by Dymo tape. I pre-scribed softly with this one. After that I used the Bare Metal scriber. If you can handle it correcty, it would be beutiful. The secret is to hold a bit it in angle (to side direction), and use it carefully and softly. I'm really satisfied with the result. Of course it's still not a full plane, and there was orignal panel lines (mainly streigh ones), but it's working. I think I'll try to rescribe a scrap model with the same method.

    Greetings, neu

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