Lupusprimus

That's (almost) what it looks like. On the right side the horizontal holder is missing. I also had to cut a stencil to draw the part. The kit-buyer has it all ready in the package. At the hydraulic table I had indicated the many lines and valves with decals. But at the fronts I couldn't do that, so something was drawn and printed smoothed.

The pipe has already been painted and is now aligned and glued at the front. The large triangular surface is glued to the right of the pump. There is still something missing, but I have to find out its exact size with templates first.

The water absorption pipe consists of three parts (in terms of printing technology). They are inserted into each other, aligned and glued. After the small pump the fastening is glued at the back.

The crane hook for the water hose is attached (it has nothing to hold). A "smoothed" printed part. Drill three holes, fit in, paint on it, glue on, done. The steps on the outriggers are glued on.

Here you can see that it fits 100%. The treads are on it. At the front of the angle you have to adjust the decals a bit.

In order to get the long lettering on the underside straight, I drew a "help line" with masking tape. I also used this "aid" for the treads on the rear tail. The masking tape is just as wide as the rear wave. So I glued a strip in the middle and aligned it straight.

That's right. I build models for flying, not for the world championship in plastic model making. But you can easily add such details with suitable means (decals etc.).

Then the green stripes on the outriggers. I thought it would be easier with decals. That turned out to be a mistake. It would be better to spray them with green as well. The stripes on the top and bottom of the tail should also be sprayed better.

Now the mass of decals is on it. Pair were already to be seen. In front at the bow of the Indians and the white stripes. You can do the upper strip with a straight decal. For the lower one I had to draw a rounded strip afterwards. Then it looked good.

Here we continue with small parts. The steps at the outriggers and the tail fin are very filigree and printed "smoothed". You can hardly touch them. First all parts are primed with white. A 10 mm wide strip is cut from 0.2 mm foil and primed as well. The steps on the outriggers are glued on.

After a few more additions sample sitting of the engines. Final colouring with silver. I decided to do so, because on some pictures the parts next to it are reflected.

Partitions are located between the engines and the central gearbox. According to templates (in the kit then) these walls are cut from 1 mm sheet and glued Y-shaped. This is partly covered by a plate. Then I decided to imitate the slats on the metal sheets. No. 102 from StripStyrene. It takes some time until they are all glued and cut.

The smoothed printed pads and clutches are very filigree. There are a few more than needed, because so small parts are quickly gone. The long shaft behind the rear is made of 3 mm carbon tube. Degrease before painting. The small parts are put on according to the drawing in the necessary distances and aligned. Check on the fuselage that all supports touch the ground. If not, build small foil plates underneath. Prime the jerked parts beforehand, then paint them with the appropriate paints.

Here is the picture.

Back right. The cables at the front right are under a fairing. It was also thermoformed in foil. It was primed and paint green. The three parts of the cladding are cut from the foil. Small foil angles are glued on the inside for fastening.

The pipes, tubes and valves are all drawn from pictures and printed in smoothed 3D.

The first lines are glued on. Here on the left. Back left.

During the breaks, the add-on parts are also completed and painted one after the other. The engine consists of three larger parts. The middle one is printed "polished", the other two "smoothed". You could also print the middle part "smoothed", but that costs almost three times as much. The parts are glued with superglue. Then colour comes along, as it looks in nature. The (3D printed) editions are glued to the engine. They secure the correct position on the fuselage. The exhaust pipe must be slightly inclined.

I also wanted to build 1:35 first. But the fuselage was too small for the adapted mechanics of the Blade 230S. My fuselage is now 64 mm wide, the used main gear has 60 mm! The original 230S has 70 mm. Only later did I notice that the transition of the colours above and below is not straight, but angular. So mask again and inject the corners again. Also the green angle is sprayed again and then the defects are removed.

After several injections the green covers. The masks are removed. Only small imperfections are visible. In front the rounding must be reworked with the brush and thinner color a little bit.

Now they're spraying green. This must be pasted several times in thin layers until the paint covers everything. Here you can still see how differently the colour covers.

The large white areas on the rear tail are masked. At the edge with masking tape from Tamiya, in the area with painter's masking tape. Only Tamiya masking tape is used on the outriggers. Here you have to pay attention to the vertical surfaces. The underside of the pulpit also remains white. Here you have to look carefully from several sides when masking.

The entire fuselage is now sprayed with white. Everywhere, not only the later white sections. The later white sections are sprayed several times with the white until a good coverage is available.

The hull is not a big hurdle for a scratch builder. And all the attachments are available (except the rotor head). But it is not a cheap task because of the many 3D printed parts. http://www.heli-scale-quality.com/sikorsky-s-64f-skycrane-ch-54-1778.html?startcustomization=1&___store=uk&___from_store=uk Wafu (Ian) builds a Skycrane in 1:35. The printed parts can all be zoomed to this size.

The last small places are repaired. And finely ground. Finally the whole fuselage is sprayed again with the light grey. It now weighs 110 g.