Napalmakita
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Posts posted by Napalmakita
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I was flipping through these pics last night, looking for some ideas as I do my Hase Rhino build and I noticed the Echo birds are a lot more beat up than the Foxtrot. They aren't that far apart in age, correct?
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1 minute ago, gregax said:
Yep, those from Uschi are great. And also scuffed scrubbing pads are good choice too.
Here are one of my examples. I used black and white over Mr.Surfacer...
Uschi...that's it. That looks great..I'm actually getting close to laying down primer on my Hase Rhino
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9 minutes ago, gregax said:
Texture templates are the way to do it. Super easy to do with way better control compared to salt.
I have some of those...Eschi I think? Another guy, maybe here, used torn up scrubbing pads to make his own..pretty cool effect
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55 minutes ago, Andrew D. the Jolly Rogers guy said:
Fightertown Decals specializes in Adversary schemes, as Brian grew up on and around NAS Miramar. Can't think of his A-4 stuff specifically, but if anyone knows the stuff, it's him!
Cool, I used to live in old town and would drive to Miramar all the time. Great air shows. I've used his sheets before, I'll def check em out, thanks👍
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8 minutes ago, Seaknight said:
TwoBobs made a set including A-4M, 48-132 A-4F/M Good Guys Gone Bad.
Unfortunately, this Decals are sold out.
Fights On Decals made also 2 Decal Sets, FOD48001 & FOD 48002, Set #2 including also A-4M
👍
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Just now, GreyGhost said:
Sure, there were many units that flew A-4E/Fs in the Adversary role.
TOPGUN, VF-43, -45, -126, -127 to name a few. Lots of great schemes too!
-Gregg
I figured that must have been the case...tango Gregg! I'll be shopping for a decal sheet, so any recommendations will be mucho appreciated👍
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I started a topic earlier on scooters and as I went to get started on my A4 Mike, I came across the Hase E/F boxing I forgot I had. I was gonna do a 311 grey scooter but I've always wanted to try an adversary scheme. Not knowing much about them, would this be doable with the E/F? Thanks
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12 hours ago, dehowie said:
If you want to do one in flight go directly with the HB kit.
Far easier to no try to fit the slats back into the wing.
Likewise numerous users of scooters hard wired the slats closed ie Blue Angels for controllability in formation and low level.
Its nice having a scooter with a slat retracted wing its far far easier than fixing a Hasegawa wing to do that.
It also goes together way better than the Hasegawa kit..
Interesting thanks👍
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The posts have nice rubber bulbs that do a great job of holding the model and the posts are stable as long as the screws holding them to the base are secure. I would say go with the middle size..if your like me you'll be buying another one anyway😁
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2 minutes ago, Nate said:
What size would you recommend for mostly 1/72 decaling and assembly with the occasional 1/48 build? I can't decide between 2.5" and 4" - 2.5" looks too small for 1/48, but 4" looks too big for 1/72.....
Thanks!
The base and circumference of the posts are the same, the size difference is just the height/length of the posts
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Sounds like I'll stick with my hasegawa..thanks
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Snowball chance in hell territory here but I morted the glass on the Kinetic build and all I got from their parts replacement was an email saying they don't have that kit.. I don't know why anyone would have sprue F but id love to have it. If you would be interested in a kit swap, I have a Hase Foxtrot hornet in 48th I would let go
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2 minutes ago, Curt B said:
I just opened all 3 (the 3 different sizes) yesterday, and put completed airplanes on them. They are REALLY cool! I can see how the stands would be useful for holding a model during construction/painting, but I'd be afraid that I would end up making a mess of the stand. Maybe it's worth getting one large size one that would be a 'building/painting stand', and which would be devoted to that, and if it gets painted on or glue or whatever, no worries. I'm going to ponder that. I am impressed with how solidly the model is held in position with those rubber/latex/whatever ends upon which the model sits.
I don't do any in flight builds so keeping them pristine isn't an issue but when I'm doing painting I loosely place an old t-shirt or soft cloth over the stand and rest the plane on top. I suppose you could wrap them in cling wrap too
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I have one of all 3 sizes...they are great for holding planes in different positions during the build . I use them when painting, decaling and loading up gear n weapons. Very handy for keeping the model secured safely when your not at the bench too👍
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I grew up on El Toro when my old man was with 311 so I dig the Mike scooters. I've built a few hasegawa kits and recently thought about giving the HB kit a run. Thoughts, experiences and opinions welcomed...
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I gave up on the salt technique. Black basing/mottling combined with random oil pant splotching has given me much better results
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Gorilla glue
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Ammo paints n sets are my go-to. Ammo enamel odorless thinner, tamiya gloss coat, Testors lacquer flat, micro sol/set for decals, future for canopies. Tamiya laquer thinner, Windex n Iwata airbrush cleaner for brush cleaning.
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They started? Done with it
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Tamiya Tomcat is a fantastic build and the viper is a beauty too. The cat is a pricey kit so maybe that factors in. I'll throw in the hasegawa a4 scooter...no weapons in the box but it's a nice build and easy on the wallet
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Any time👍
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On 9/1/2020 at 11:20 AM, Collin said:
It's bad form to dump in the break and piss on the Boss's deck (and LSO's)...but if you have to make weight....you have to make weight. I've held that switch in dump until the ball call...which means we probably landed at max-trap...but still have fuel dribbling out the back in the wires (that's a six pack of soda for the Boss).
Wartime...you might be in a spot where you Toff with a load that isn't allowed to be brought back with a useful load on the ball (meaning a few passes at the least). In that case...you would head to the jett box and push off a weapon or two to make weight.
Peacetime....even in combat ops (ex: OSW)....you normally have a loadout that allows you to comeback onboard with a useful load. Even MINEX events, which involve a pretty hefty loads.....the aircraft can come back. It's going to be tight in the pattern because folks don't have a whole lot of gas for multiple looks at the ball. That's what makes the job fun.
If it's an emergency...all bets are off. If you need to get onboard fast...everything is on the table....jett ord/dump fuel (if you haven't "rung the doorbell" already). If you have time to work the problem...the emergency will dictate what you keep of both.
Cheers
Collin
Outstanding stuff Collin. Love hearing stories about traps and the jargon alone is always hilarious😁
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I've done several Harriers. If your asking specifically about the det cord, I highly recommend flying leathernecks aftermarket set. It just peels n sticks..looks great too. Otherwise, like on the inside of the f16 canopy, I just used plain water n it dries clean.
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I bought a pack after seeing them on YouTube as well. I got the 400-1500 n added the 2000 n 3000. They are great...you can cut them to size, they get into creases n conform to curves nicely and leave minimal sanding scratches. They are typical Tamiya quality and have added to the ease n quality of my builds.
Great Navy Hornet (and others) Weathering Ref Shot
in Jet Modeling
Posted
Thought so..👍