jefferysl Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 Well, I just took delivery of a Combat Roberts Models Cant Z-1007 in 1/48 scale. I knew what I was in for in general, but couldn't see paying $250 for the resin kit. Anyway, there is a serious blemish to the wing where it looks as if the mold was damaged. I need to cover a 1 1/2 inch circular area with a material that is sandable, won't flake off under stress, and can be scribed. Right now I'm thinking miliput, but that stuff dries rock hard and is difficult to sand (especially if you leave it too long). Same-same for superglue. I used fiberglass impregnated Bondo on another kit, it just flaked off when I tried to scribe it. Anyway, appreciate any suggestions from vac gurus out there. In a related question, there are always air bubble "pimples" in vacuform kits...what is a good technique for filling those without having it turn into a hole when you sand it off? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
singeri Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 Jeff - I can't remember which back issue, but a few years ago, Pat Hawkey (master modeler) did a vac C-124, and in the article he does A LOT of filling.....I would go to Fine Scale Modeler, and get that back issue.....heck, there might even be an online version of it in their archives. HTH, Irv Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jefferysl Posted December 28, 2011 Author Share Posted December 28, 2011 I Google'd Pat Hawkey and got a number of books and articles that he's authored. One of which he uses epoxy putty to reinforce weak spots in vacuform kits could be very useful in backfilling the vacuform pimples. Still looking at how to fix the really big flaws I spoke about earlier...thanks for the tip Irv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Loggie Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 G'Day Jefferysl. Questions - Is the 1.5" dia area flat (eg - wing top or bottom) or is it a sharply-curved area (eg - fuselage). Does the 1.5"-dia area have raised details like wing ribs etc? To re[air the damaged area, may I suggest that you cut the area away, then back it FROM THE INSIDE, with a larger piece, and replace the cut-away area with plastic card of equal thickness. This is easier in a vac-form than an injection-mould. For a curved area, it may be necessary to glue the patch down in bands. Alternately, you could place-down strips of plastic in-lieu of a single large piece, fill & sand as per normal. As the patch is plastic, it should not flake away. It is a good idea to place bulkheads or supporting sticks behind the patch to provide support for any sanding sctivities. Vacforms need a lot of internal bulkheads and supports because their plastic is thinner (hence less structurally sound) than an injection-mould. Little pimples - these are the holes through-which the air was drawn to create the vacume to make your kit. They are rarely taller than the thickness of the plastic - so just lop them off. If you are worried about them, fill them from the inside first (use normal plastic filler (eg, Tamiya or milliput), (sand the inside smooth only if it is in a visible area) then lop-off the pimple. Good luck and have fun. George, out..................... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jefferysl Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 Thanks George. It appears that the male mold was chipped as the flaw is a concave, roughly surfaced dent in the top of the wing about 1.5 inches in diameter and it obliterates the aileron demarcation line. Plastic may very well be my best option....strong and can be scribed! Just kind of a drag to have to deal with it. Anyway....thanks again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AVGBob Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 What about bondo? Just fill the hole and rescribe the line. Seems pretty straight forward and simple to me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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