taneal1

From Previous Post: "The Adapter RCS jets and explosive bolt covers are complete and may be ordered as well." Radar antennae are a WiP.

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To me, this is such an amazing improvement over the original kit even with the RealSpace stuff added, that I'm *really* surprised there hasn't been a much stronger reaction, whatever the price. Nothing has been decided on price, as of yet. Of course the number of expected purchases will greatly affect the selling price, so this must first be determined at least approximately. Yes, it's another case of the chicken or the egg... This Cone eliminates the trouble of filling and sanding the three wide gaps without removing any shingle detail, which is the major complaint about the kit. Additio

What do you all think of the quality and detail of the Print? Price is TBD. Any suggestions as to what should be charged are always welcome... A FULL Kit, 1/24th Mercury spacecraft companion piece is well underway.

Highly detailed 1-piece replacement Reentry Module 'Cone' for Revell 1/24th Gemini kit! No wide gaps between the 3-piece RM to fill and sand. All shingles are the proper size per McDonell blueprints. Fully accurate two-position crew hatches (fully open or fully closed) depict the "Flipper Doors" (hatch hinge covers with thermal pads) that are completely missing from the Revell kit. Due to this exclusion Revell widened the three adjacent rows of shingles to compensate. The hatch cove matches the real spacecraft, without the beaded shingles present on the kit. Hatch interior includes ratchet han

No, I am not referring to Mike Makowski -- but a donation to him for his excellent work over many years is a good idea!

A friend who has the McDonnell Blueprints for the Gemini spacecraft has determined the precise size of the Ejection Seats, and has concluded that the included astronaut figures are "a full head too high." This of course explains why everyone who has used the photo-etch ejection seat upgrades had to make significant cuts in the sides of the pressure vessel, and in the bottom of the footwells. Tom

Thanks Collin, Tom

Micro Mark has a Micro Punch set ranging from 1 to 5mm at 0.5mm increments for $60: Punch Set Can anyone comment on this, or provide a better tool? Thanks, Tom

My only experience is using Medium CA. I suspect Thin CA might spread too easily into unwanted areas. Are Gap-Filling and Gel the same? Does everyone use all three for different type of jobs, or have a favorite that they use exclusively, or almost exclusively? Can anyone recommend a long needle-type applicator for difficult to reach areas? Thanks in advance for any responses, Tom

Thanks. I was afraid that was the case, but it's always better to ask.

Holding parts, I do use tape (typically away from where I'm applying heat). Try to be quick and not heat the part up too much. Adhesive residue usually wipes off easily with a q-tip dipped in isopropanol or acetone. You can also use Blu-Tack (or any other similar sticky-poster-mounting-putty-type-stuff). Again, I wouldn't solder *directly* over it, but it holds up to the heat. I probably wouldn't go for a soldering helper; in my experience, they're okay for getting in the ballpark, but frustrating to get *exact* positioning. I prefer to work on a ceramic tile, either taping or blue-tacki

Thanks Pete. I've studied your build at great length. Exceptionally helpful.

Thanks for the info. I've looked at resistance soldering but it's expensive for something I wouldn't use very often. What size are the are the larger ones that you switch to Resistance soldering? Or maybe I should ask, what is the size limit for a standard soldering gun?

Which is "better"? Solder or Glue or CA or Cement... I'm assembling two LVM PE Ejection Seats that need to be held together in a few areas. I've soldered a lot of electrical stuff but never PE seams. They don't have to be very strong joins, but I like the idea of soldering and I want to develop the skill. I'm finding it difficult to keep the oddly shaped parts aligned well enough to solder. When I use some kind of glue, I usually tape the parts together on one side and glue the other side. Then I remove the tape and glue the other side of the joint. When soldering the tape doesn't survive