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Historybuff

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  1. Awesome! Thank you guys for all the great feedback!
  2. Thank you guys for the advice. It’s been real helpful. This will be the first vise I have bought for model making. So it’s been crazy going through all the different brands and reviews. This narrowed down my list considerably.
  3. Whoops, posted in correct forum this time. Thank you for both advice and information about posting in the wrong forum.
  4. Hi! I know this is a bit subjective, but I need some help with determining what brand and pin vise to get for my plastic model. I’ve looked at Tamiya’s pin viseS and bits. They seem great, but seem quite pricey. Do you have any suggestions for a good quality pin vice and drill bits for my plastic models that won’t cost too much? I’ll pay for Tamiya ones if that’s the only route I have to go for good quality ones but I would prefer not to pay about $40 for a vise and bits.
  5. Hi! I know this is a bit subscribe, but I need some help with determining what brand and pin vise to get for my plastic model. I’ve looked at Tamiya’s pin viseS and bits. They seem great, but seem quite pricey. Do you have any suggestions for a good quality pin vice and drill bits for my plastic models that won’t cost too much? I’ll pay for Tamiya ones if that’s the only route I have to go for good quality ones but I would prefer not to pay about $40 for a vise and bits.
  6. @dnl42, I got ya. I guess I’ll just have to get it as close to the consistency as possible, and then experiment with PSI and needle size to try to achieve the desired result you’re describing when spraying. I appreciate the info. This will serve me well when I do get what need to get into airbrushing clear coats.
  7. @Napalmakita, I haven’t been able to come across many other types of paints other than, Testors, MM and some Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics at my local hobby stores. I’m planning on looking some more at other places and online. I’ll keep my eye out for Ammo paints. I’ll definitely keep my eyes peeled for that Ammo acrylic primer as well. It may just take some trial and error to figure out what works best for me, so Ammo primer will definitely be a primer I keep in mind. Thank you for your input.
  8. I’ve definitely learned this lesson. I’ve gotten better at applying thinner coats with paints as time has progressed. Although I will say that I have gotten away wit a few heavy coats earlier on with other colors. White just definitely seems like to leaves you with really no room for error. Otherwise, it looks horrible and drives you nuts. I definitely appreciate the advice.
  9. @Camus272, I happen to have Testors gloss clear coat. I’m wondering if you use that. If you, do, do you apply it with an airbrush or paintbrush? How much do you thin with water for either airbrush or paintbrush? PSI level if you do airbrush it? Sorry for all the questions. I’ve just been liking some airbrushing I’ve been watching. So I may end up airbrushing outside my home for things like clear coats. I hear a lot of conflicting opinions on how to do what I asked you. So I would prefer to ask you on this forum if you have already done it successfully rather than wade through all these conflicting opinions on the internet.
  10. @dnl42, I have a question about airbrushing the Microscale Industry’s Micro Flat with an air brush. In case I ever decided to airbrush outside the house in the case of me not liking how it looks brushed on, how much do you dilute it with water? Also, at what psi do you spray it with personally? I’m asking about this because I have been looking into outdoor spray booths. I may eventually go that route.
  11. The results are in. I got some good wet/dry sanding paper containing 320, 400, 600, 800, 1,200 and some higher grit together in a pack. I’m still planning on getting the recommended materials posted above by others, btw. I wouldn’t say that it has solved all the problems. It has, however, given me a workable surface to paint on with only needing a few light coats. It was taking as many as FIVE coats to fully paint the area. a bit of a side note: white acrylic seems to be much harder adhering than something like gray acrylic paint. Not sure if this is common or if I just got a bad batch of white paint. Nevertheless, white WILL adhere. It just takes one or two more coats.
  12. Thank you all for the suggestions. I appreciate all the recommendations. I have more options to fall back on than I thought would.
  13. awesome! Thank you guys for the advice on the Tamiya XF-86. I’ll give that a go if the Microscale Flat I ordered is not to my liking. i also hear you on the vague term of “non-toxic”. I found that out after a lot of research before getting my bird. Basically, I just need something as least toxic as possible and will give off little to no fumes. Unfortunately, I know that can limit my options quite a bit. I appreciate the help on trying to come up with an answer with something with a very limited amount of solutions.
  14. Oh, nice! I love the LCM3, btw. Awesome models you built there. I’m going to go with your advice and try the Microscale Flat. Thank you for the time and advice!
  15. Yeah, I don’t plan on putting any masking tape near decals. Just to try and cover the painted spots that are supposed to be glossy. Worried about accidentally raising the paint with my masking tape. I may just try to be extra careful if I apply it by brush. I do use Microscale Set/Sol. Never thought about their coats. one last question, if you don’t mind. Did it dry flat or no? I heard some reviews saying it was great, some saying too glossy. If it’s actually flat from your experience, I’ll probably buy it. I just want to make sure it does its job as my primary reason for getting it is to make it flat, then protect.
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