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Dog1

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Posts posted by Dog1

  1. Quote

    If you want to get ultra-glossy finish from your airbrush, after getting down your color coats, try a few finish coats with very high amount of thinner, and wet sand with very smooth grit sanding pads between. 

    how many coats of thinned clear and which grade sanding paper , by very fine you mean 4000 to 10000 ?

  2. So its decant , wait 1 day for the prop to evaporate ,  airbrush , clear . i find cans to be ruthless even at a distance and in movement , for large areas it can overspray and run creating large deposits at corners . I find myself wasting a lot of spray as well . What i like about cans is that strong uniform gloss finish to the major surface .

  3. Hello

    My objective is to find out if you can get exactly the same result using a can spray for color X example yellow by airbrushing the same color gloss bottle by adding clear to make it as gloss as the TS spray " i tried Tamiya TS yellow and   Tamiya LP8 yellow lacquer and it was not the same yet at the store i was told the lacquer color equivalent to TS range should be the same .  . Another question is by decaning a color and using the color through the airbrush will it give exactly the same color result and is this action the objective for small touch ups  ?

  4. the reason for decanting is to use the same Tamiya yellow color source for the  touch up to remove the white spots  .Will this give a 100% match ? If instead i use a Mr Color lacquer yellow from a bottle for the touch up will there be a difference ? at the local Tamiya shop they told me the Tamiya spray is the same as lacquer .

  5. hello

    If i decant a spray with the intention of airbrushing a small surface area  slightly smeared ,  "small white blemishes over can sprayed yellow " , i still havent applied anything on top such as clear , will this blend 100% without leaving any border ?

  6. flat base is something i have never understood and was never in the past able to use it to flaten . I cannot remember 15 years ago what i used to add to flaten a gloss or to flaten further parts or small areas  without using the spray can .  I used to use acrylic and enamel then . I will ask the Tamiya store what they recommend .

  7. Not happy with the airbrush experiment i diluted heavily and this time dry brushed from the opposite side of the clear acrylic and the result was excellent . On none chrome styrene parts usually i paint a silver background before painting on the clears with brush always . I am seeing this happen often where  after a while a paint will kind of begin expiring and lose consistency . Solution is to order a fresh batch . 

  8. i tried for the first time to airbrush clear on a chrome plated part and the result is a bright red and not clear , Does clear work with airbrush ?another question is i see my red clear is not  as good as it was when i first bought the bottle it seems to have been compromised with time , its thicker , sticks and not really clear and oily looking . can it be saved  or is it time for a fresh batch ?

  9. i did use a light color primer on the resin part Mr Surfacer and then Tamiya can yellow but its still not equal to the styrene sprayed part . The sprayed styrene part was with Tamiya can yellow as well . When sprayed on to the resin part it dulls completely .The lighter the color the bigger the difference .

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