Dog1

hi , i bought a glue spray can to fix the various soft materials placed on a scenario such as grass , earth etc and applied the spray . the result was a disaster . the glue came out in bubbles and went all over my hand and down the can as well as spraying and droping blotches onto the scenario and even the floor !!!! what other civilized manner is there for fixing soft materials such as sand and synthetic materials for diorama ?

hello , which are the free photo hosting sites now available and easy to use ? dont mention dropbox because i have that and i cant place a photo in other sites , only link to the photo.

hello , i put the new set together , tested with water and all works well , however the airbrush is not working as a 2 stage , its releasing the air when i push down the trigger and not when i pull back . what is the problem ?

i bought a Tamiya Leichter scout car that comes with this barrel . instruction says you have to prime with a metal primer first but i find that expensive since i dont have one and i'm not going to spend up to a third of the kits cost just for a one time spray . what solutons are there and what is the best paint for this surface for it to stand out ?

how many coats of thinned clear and which grade sanding paper , by very fine you mean 4000 to 10000 ?

So its decant , wait 1 day for the prop to evaporate , airbrush , clear . i find cans to be ruthless even at a distance and in movement , for large areas it can overspray and run creating large deposits at corners . I find myself wasting a lot of spray as well . What i like about cans is that strong uniform gloss finish to the major surface .

Hello My objective is to find out if you can get exactly the same result using a can spray for color X example yellow by airbrushing the same color gloss bottle by adding clear to make it as gloss as the TS spray " i tried Tamiya TS yellow and Tamiya LP8 yellow lacquer and it was not the same yet at the store i was told the lacquer color equivalent to TS range should be the same . . Another question is by decaning a color and using the color through the airbrush will it give exactly the same color result and is this action the objective for small touch ups ?

In order to get the same shine as can sprayed , can one add clear to the paint and diluent and airbrush to get the same result ?

will order a tamiya bottle and conduct a test on a styrene sheet and match to damaged surface . thanks tip.

the reason for decanting is to use the same Tamiya yellow color source for the touch up to remove the white spots .Will this give a 100% match ? If instead i use a Mr Color lacquer yellow from a bottle for the touch up will there be a difference ? at the local Tamiya shop they told me the Tamiya spray is the same as lacquer .

Hello How do i know the propellant is gone ? i must leave the glass bottle lid open 2 days ? i will post image today .

hello If i decant a spray with the intention of airbrushing a small surface area slightly smeared , "small white blemishes over can sprayed yellow " , i still havent applied anything on top such as clear , will this blend 100% without leaving any border ?

they are recommending that one too . thank you all for assistance .

this no good right ?

flat base is something i have never understood and was never in the past able to use it to flaten . I cannot remember 15 years ago what i used to add to flaten a gloss or to flaten further parts or small areas without using the spray can . I used to use acrylic and enamel then . I will ask the Tamiya store what they recommend .