Dog1

hello I wish to start making my own masking roundels and i have never bought the tamiya or any vinyl sheets before . Can anyone here tell me wether when placing above an existing image sheet of paper or scale decal will they be transparent enough to see the lower sheet to demark all the bounderies before cutting with an exacto or compass and which is better and safer from bleeding ?

hi , scanned material can be photocopies of markings insignias roundels numbers etc from sites like google which displays a variety of decal sheets for sale ? then input all the data using the mouse from scanned image and adjust size . so in practicle terms you make one set to paint the white base of a USAAF insignia , then you add another one to blot the white parts and add the blue then remove all ? can you add say cut here cut there so you can blot or add the borders of the bars ? what materials do i need besides a copy of the tamiya tape "china" and vinyl sheets ? like for example a base s

hello , i have been looking into masks lately with the intention of painting on the roundels insignias and serial numbers etc for the first time . I came across this piece of equipment and have been following the youtube tutorials . The price of ready masks is extremely expensive vis a vis kit cost in my opinion . you can use them one time . This equipment is not expensive and i would like to know if anyone is using it , what other equipment is need for example i think you need a photocopy machine and what are the various printing sheets needed suh as vinyl , tamiya or equivalent tape etc .

Hello , for the first time ever i am thinking seriously of painting USAAF insignias onto the model instead of placing decals for realism . I recently finished a P47 D Tamiya with DDay markings and i reluctantly placed the DDay decals instead of painting them on which is what i have done in the past and i was dismayed by the result . Its like a carpet , you cant see any protruding or sunk details , hinges , etc . never again . The mask sets are expensive and you have to pinpoint the spot with accuracy obviously . What is your experience and do you recommend them .

ok so its step by step one layer after another starting from the first bare application . the antiglare surface to be left to the very end . interesting that you go free hand over the decals without any overspray . thank you for the tips .

hello , so from what i understand you applied the clear gloss first before applying the decals and other painted sections such as the antiglare area then later all the decals and sealed the decals surfaces again ? you later applied an alklad flat clear to what is supposed to be flat areas such as over the cowling ? I applied TS 70 OD lacquer spray paint for antiglare areas and it goes very well .though it is Flat i flattened further with mr color flat clear which is lacquer . At this point i feel it is pointless in applying the Alklad aqua gloss . too late .

hi , i already built and painted the model with alclad NMF paint but also added the flat OD top fuselage surface front and back as well as all the decals . So my question is to Alclad experts is was i supposed to do that when only the NMF paint was done and before adding anything else wether flat painted parts and decals ?

Bingo !!

i have just found out that you can mix alclad aluminium with alclad dark aluminium which i have , they are compatible . this should do the trick and darken area . I'll blot the dark alu panel above and go over .

hello . i painted an aircraft with alclad aluminium 101 and a weeck later i wanted to correct a section of a wing i was not happy with . i had not applied the alclad top coat yet . after spraying that section " see photo " the result was a lighter shade . From your experiences do i wait days for it to blend and darken or is there a correction to be made and how?

here is where i stand now and i am not satisfied at all with the result , your opinions would be greatly appreciated to avoid this mistake the next time i do a NMF aircraft , my question is why did i succeed in my first atempt spraying only one layer of tamiya aluminium and buff with kitchen paper a couple of hrs later i get the NMF effect " polished aluminium " and then applying the 2 extra coats and rest for 24 hrs before buffing with a cotton t shirt i never got back to the first layer NMF effect now it looks "aluminium " , i then buffed and sprayed tamiya clear , i get something very di

From my research on youtube the way forward in my case is to apply clear to seal of the basic paint job and again for each addition layer or sections . this is my first natural metal and i see i will have to seal anyway or i wont be able to apply the decals and residue will keep coming of on my fingers each time i handle the object .

in my case i've already airbrushed the parts with alu , i want to continue with the same method on a couple of panels . i just want to know wether it will stick on top after say 24 hrs followed by a buff .

hello , i finished applying mr metallic aluminium on my styrene wings and fuselage and left it to rest 24 hrs then buffed and all is well . Now i want to apply stainless mr color for the first time to a couple of panels for contrast . Since its the first time , is there anything i must know before proceeding , any risks , issues ?

hi , i bought a glue spray can to fix the various soft materials placed on a scenario such as grass , earth etc and applied the spray . the result was a disaster . the glue came out in bubbles and went all over my hand and down the can as well as spraying and droping blotches onto the scenario and even the floor !!!! what other civilized manner is there for fixing soft materials such as sand and synthetic materials for diorama ?