[Oh no....not another 109 (1/32 Bf-109G-4 build)]

On 3/17/2024 at 12:48 PM, Cool Hand said:

Bummer. 

 

Will you be trying another G-4?

 

 

Not another G-4, but I am looking for a G-6. I picked up this sheet of captured G-6's at a hobby show for a nice price! It has several options that look awesome. 

[How to airbrush Tamiya paints guide (for newbies)]

On 3/17/2024 at 10:45 AM, Gwen Phoenix said:

 

Indeed!

You can imagine my surprise when I found out that "Anarchist" was my namesake.

I'm more like a rightist, but the character in the game is awesome, as is the nature of the plot.

I've still got a copy of the game in 3.5" diskettes. The problem is that the video card I had in a 80486DX2 I used just to run that game has gone Kaput, and the resolution of the new one I got is awful. 

I was completely astonished when Janet betrayed the Wildcats!

That game was very good.

Oh, I wish so badly someone would redo the game with current graphics. I would buy it immediately. It was such a well done game, great story line, plot, characters, etc. 

[How to airbrush Tamiya paints guide (for newbies)]

On 3/13/2024 at 6:07 PM, Gwen Phoenix said:

I spotted the word newbies, and I was summoned as Batman with the Bat Signal on the sky. 😁

haha, well hopefully it was helpful. And btw, your profile thumbnail is from Strike Commander. I use to play that game all the time!

[Oh no....not another 109 (1/32 Bf-109G-4 build)]

Final update: as you can see, the 109 build came to an end today. My clumsy a** dropped the model and why trying to scoop it up....ended up stepping on it instead. Sigh.....here lay it's final remains.

[Oh no....not another 109 (1/32 Bf-109G-4 build)]

On 3/11/2024 at 10:55 AM, Cool Hand said:

Nice build so far.

 

I have to ask, why are you going to use the RLM 81/82/83 colors introduced in late 1944 for a G-4 built in early 1943?

Thank you. Regarding your question....it's because I am an idiot haha. I am not a WWII guy, so I ended up ordering the wrong paints.

[Oh no....not another 109 (1/32 Bf-109G-4 build)]

Update 4: unfortunately, I was not able to finish the kit in 2-3 days as I had hoped. My mom was diagnosed with Breast Cancer this past week. Today was the first day I was able to do some modeling. In tough times, modeling is such a therapeutic release and helps keep me grounded.

So I was able to close up the cockpit, install the lower piece with the wing alignment part, and glue & fill the seams of the nose cowling piece. I also received the Ammo paint set. I am going to try it out on this kit.

[Oh no....not another 109 (1/32 Bf-109G-4 build)]

Update Part 3: so I got bogged down with the fuselage. For some reason....this time around the tail to fuselage joint was extremely problematic. Lot's of sanding and rescribing done and I am still not finished.

[How to airbrush Tamiya paints guide (for newbies)]

1 hour ago, Robert Garelli said:

I watched the video last night and it helped immensely. Thank you for creating it. I was never thinning the paint enough. I painted this 1/56 Gaming Tiger II last night to test out your suggestions and was light SOB!!! 

 

Robert, glad to hear the video was useful to you. Unfortunately, your linked picture is not accessible. Can you reload? 

[How to airbrush Tamiya paints guide (for newbies)]

1 hour ago, JackMan said:

Good stuff.  I like how you explained the thinning ratios and the different psi for the gloss vs flat paints. 

Thank you!

Thank you, glad you liked the video! 

[Oh no....not another 109 (1/32 Bf-109G-4 build)]

Ok, part 2: flat coat on, light dirt added in. Ready to bring the fuselage together.

[Oh no....not another 109 (1/32 Bf-109G-4 build)]

I picked this kit up for 10 dollars......and it is a pretty easy build. Gonna finish this up in 2 days. Got the cockpit done in 2 hours and gloss coat is on. Next step: filter will be applied and flat coat.

[1/48 and 1/72 items for sale. Need gone by end of the month! No reasonable offer refused.]

I am leaving for surgery and will be out for a month. Need to clean up and get rid of stuff before hand. Picture of each item below and I have included a description of the item. I have listed pictures but I will consider REASONABLE OFFERS (look up reasonable before you send a ridiculous offer).  I am located in Virginia. If interested message me on here to avoid scammers.

 

Aztek Airbrush, used 3 or 4 times only. Comes with everything you see in the picture and also a quick disconnect. $50

 

1/48 Hasegawa Hellcat with True Details resin cockpit $35

1/48 Kinetic F-104G (box missing, bags sealed) comes with after market decals $55

1/48 Hasegawa F-104G with resin seats with aftermarket decals (box open, some of the inside bags busted) $40

1/48 AMT Tigetcat with 2 sets of resin wheels $30

1/48 Encore F-84F (missing resin seat) $25

1/48 Eduard Pro-pack Mirage III . (box open, kit mostly boxed, some part test fitted the resin cockpit in the photo is sold) $30

1/48 Tamiya Zero Fighter A6M5/5a $30

 

1/72 Airfix Canberra (box open, bags sealed) $30

1/72 Eduard pro-pack L-39 (kit includes 2 kits one is sealed and one is not) $35

1/72 Italeri Su-25 with resin cockput (kit complete in box, not bagged, un-started) $35

1/72 Special Hobby Viggen $30

1/72 Revell Hawker Hunter (box open, bags sealed) $25

1/72 Hobbycraft Banshee with vac-form canopy $ 25

1/72 tamiya spitfire with canopy mask $25

 

 

[How to airbrush Tamiya paints guide (for newbies)]

I keep seeing this question come up from new modelers joining the community. Hopefully, this can help you if you're new to airbrush Tamiya acrylic paints.

 

[Drying time for Vallejo Clear Gloss?]

On 10/5/2018 at 12:36 PM, Lucas C. said:

I've used Vallejo's clear gloss for a few models and have noticed that I can still leave fingerprints in the finish even after a week of letting it dry.  It's not particularly cold, warm, dry, or humid where I airbrush (70 degrees 50% humidity on average), and I've only thinned it with Vallejo's own airbrush thinner when spraying it.  I remember having a similar problem years ago with a different brand of clear coat (Maybe MM Acryl?  Maybe Tamiya X-22?).  Another thing I've noticed when applying weathering and decals is that the gloss coat doesn't feel tacky when I first begin handling the model, but after half an hour or so of constant handling, it begins to feel slightly tacky, and then I start leaving prints.  Any ideas how I can avoid this/fix the issue?  Thanks!

Couple of question:

Did you use the vallejo premium gloss or the resin gloss?

How did you thin it and the ratio you use?

What PSI did you use?

[How to paint cockpits with Zenith highlights and contrast techniques.]

Chuck,

I used to work for print companies doing airbrush work and I can tell you.....paint chemistry has significantly changed over the years. What you are seeing now is acrylic paints with additives that make the paint stronger than ever before. It is common practice in the professional artist community to add additives to strengthen the paint. Now this is now being used for the hobby world. The thinner mixture in my video acts as an additive along with thinning the paint. Second for acrylics you have to shift your thinking a bit. Most of us grew up on lacquers/enamel paints. And with those paints you blast them on....cant do that with acrylics or your get orange peel. So it is a bit of a mind shift. But I promise once you get over that hump and understand how to use acrylics....you will get the exact results as lacquers and enamels.

 

Feel free to reach out if you have any questions on how to work with acrylics.

[How to paint cockpits with Zenith highlights and contrast techniques.]

1 hour ago, Chuck1945 said:

I’m one of those acrylic lacquer users, but… I find these links quite interesting and am now using water based acrylics more for interiors. Will Tamiya X-20A (the water/alcohol thinner) work with AMMO by MiG?

Hey Chuck,

X-20a is not recommended for Ammo acrylics. To get the best out of water based acrylics and I do mean any water based acrylic (Vallejo, Ammo, AK, Army painter, etc). I recommend you check out the video below. The thinner mixture within will permanently change your water based acrylic airbrushing game. 

 

 

[How to paint cockpits with Zenith highlights and contrast techniques.]

Hey everyone,
Finished the Video on how to do zenith highlights for cockpits and create contrast. I realize it is not realistic but it creates an amazing look. The techniques are from the Spanish Style of modeling but I have modified things a bit. I hope you enjoy!

https://youtu.be/Z4ZgQnu2Wd8?si=eCrp6L7iQERDoNeK

 

[Just posted new how to guide on how to paint WWII Cockpits]

Let me know what you think:

 

[1/72 Banshee RCN]

4 hours ago, phantom said:

Looks good, very convincing weathering, built that a couple times myself. But the RCAF never flew them, RCN.

You are correct! Just updated the title to be RCN.

[Opinions on Mission Models paints]

19 hours ago, goondman said:

To be specific, I mean water based acrylics. I assume, I was never able to clean the nozzles throughly enough. That includes shooting lacqure thinner thru them. Shrugs shoulders 

So that tells me there are other issues going on with your airbrush nozzle. Might I recommend the following tool, no matter what type of paint you use eventually it clogs the nozzle and your  nozzle needs to be cleaned. This tool is designed to help clean the inside of the nozzle tip.

[1/72 Banshee RCN]

It was supposed to be a fun easy build.....but the best laid plans.
First Tamiya tape left residue all over the paint. I have never had that happen! Not sure if my tamiya tape went bad? Then Ak gauzy failed me...first time this happened, I complain about how horrible Tamiya decals are....well hobbycraft makes tamiya decals seem like they aftermarket ones. The setting solution eat through the gauzy agent and ruined the paint. Once I was done sanding, priming, and re-applying paint. I put on a satin coat.....which went all foggy on me. So again I had to re-sand, re-prime, re-paint. I was not going to get this kit beat me. Finally finished it after 4 hours of fixing problems. Not my best work by any means but here it is:

 

https://youtu.be/K3X_I0JmrdE?si=TCHPkArrJKAWzCBO

 

[Opinions on Mission Models paints]

2 hours ago, goondman said:

Due to constant airbrush issues; like needing to replace nozzles much more than what should be necessary, i went to only using  paint i can thin with Gunze or Tamiya lacquer thinner. Since doing this, the mileage in my nozzles has increased A LOT. Anyway, mission models paint:

 

Colors looked correct

 

Some colors sprayed perfectly fine straight out of the bottle others needed to be thinned

 

It wasn't a problem but I used more thinner that what they recommended 

 

All in all i liked them

 

Sorry goondman, why would you need to replace nozzles with acrylic use? That makes no sense to me at all. Acrylics have no harsh solvents in them (assuming we are talking about pure water based). Even if they are plugged, throw them in some lacquer thinner and that should remove everything. 

[Opinions on Mission Models paints]

On 12/20/2023 at 11:05 AM, JackMan said:

 

Really useful tips there, FalconFan.  I like the way you explained everything in detail.  Also, your color-basing technique ( as an alternative to black-basing) on your 1/72 Banshee was very interesting.  Again, I really like the way you explained the step-by-step. Thanks!

 

Thank you for the kind words! I am glad to hear you enjoyed my videos. If you have any suggestions on things you would like me to do a video on, feel free to let me know. 

[Updated: 1/32, 1/48, 1/72, 1/35 stuff for sale.. make me an offer]

bump

[Opinions on Mission Models paints]

I think I can contribute something useful in this discussion. I started working as an airbrush artist in 1991 for a print company, used harsh solvent based paints all my life until about 10 or so years ago. Working with lacquers for majority of my life has really impacted my health....my doctor said he had only seen this level of smell loss on heavy smokers. I had to switch over to acrylics or potentially give up airbrushing my models. Tried acrylics the first time and hated them, i sold off my entire batch (close to 300 dollars worth). Tried to find a middle ground and go the brush painting route.....that i hated more. So decided I would understand acrylics first and that might change my experience. Once I understood how acrylics work....that changed my acrylic experience forever!

 

I think this the big problem, when you switch lacquers or enamels to acrylics, there is a learning curve people don't tell you about. I worked with my professional artist  friends to come up with a thinner mixture (understanding now what is needed to airbrush acrylics). It has changed everything. NO MORE tip drying! You get consistent paint spraying, you get a good sold finish that is durable.

 

You have to change how you airbrush with acrylics. YOU CANNOT blast the paint on. Primer is not mandatory but very helpful. Low air pressure is better, than high air pressure, you can build up the effect you want. And acrylics offer benefits that lacquers do not. First the lack of smell, I cannot stress how important this is. We modelers have become nose blind to the smells of our hobby. I promise others have not! In the video below, see how my cat reacts to Tamiya (acylic lacquer) when compared to a pure water based acrylic. Acrylics are easier for building up effects. They are also a better foundation for weathering (especially if you build armor).

 

If you are looking at pure water based acrylic paints, I really recommend you watch my video. It will PERMANENTLY change your acrylic airbrushing experience. I get the same airbrushing results as I did when I used lacquers. You can see in my Bf-109 video, Banshee video, I am airbrushing for 30-40 minutes straight no issues what to so ever. Notice I am able to hold the model without gloves and with no problems.

 

Give this formula a try....you will change your mind about acrylics after: