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1/72 Hasegawa T-4 BLUE IMPULSE,( now with pics)


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In order to give my eyes a rest from all the 1.144 kit bashing, I've been working on a Hasegawa T4 from the Blue Impulse Japanese display team. It was kindly given to me by a fellow ARC'er (cheers Tony :salute: ). It is a pretty basic kit but, when finished in the Blue Impulse colours, Wow, it looks great (not due to my ham fisted buiding, I mean the real ones must look stunning). I sprayed it in Appliance white and painted the Blue on rather than using the decals supplied. I did this as Hasegawa dont actually give you all the decals in blue, so you have to colour match. Im not that good at that sort of malarky so I just masked and painted. The only other thing I did was add some seat belts and a small bar to the top of the front ejector seat as, this is quite prominant on the real aircraft, yet missing on the kit. I stretched some sprue and made it up out of 5 small pieces(I was supposed to be giving my eyes a rest!). The canopy is crystal clear and you can see a lot in the flying desk space, so super detailers could fill their boots!

I enjoyed building this, and I forgot how much I like building things I can actually see!

I hope you like it, I would love to see this team in real life as the planes look stunning!

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Edited by mildenhall rules
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Did you hand paint that? If you did, then it looks awsome! Any tips to how you paint with a brush? I keep

getting brush marks and uneveness. Thanks and keep up the awsome work on your T-4!

RYAN.

Hi Ryan,

Thanks mate for the kind comments. I find the two best tips are buy good paint and good brushes. Flat brushes are best for larger areas. If you are using enamels thin the paint a little, a few light coats are better than one, heavy brush stroked one and if (like me) you prefer acrylics, make sure the paint is again thinned ,but also do not let the paint start to dry on the brush, keep it damp and the paint regularly mixed. And finally use KLEAR floor polish (not sure what it is called in the states), it is the forgiver of all brush strokes!. I have also just been passed on a tip by Julien (the host of this GB, cheers again mate), it is a follows:

"When you have masked off say white to do blue then run a bead of the white paint down the edge of the tape this then seals the edge with the background colour so in effect only the white will bleed through.

If you dont want to use paint then you can use kleer. I was given this tip a couple of years ago and it works wonders."

Thanks again, and I hope all your builds are going well!

Cheers

Tim

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Did you hand paint that? If you did, then it looks awsome! Any tips to how you paint with a brush? I keep

getting brush marks and uneveness. Thanks and keep up the awsome work on your T-4!

RYAN.

Ryan,

I have been brush painting for 30 year now so maybe I can help as well.

Get the best brushes you can afford, some of my wide flats cost as much as a small kit. Sable is the best if you can get it. I normally get mine in an arts store not a model store.

I generally dont thin enamal paint but do acrylic paint. Which are you using? After paiting with enamal paint I generally use micromesh pads to polish the paint out. These range from 3000 grit to 12000 grit. It takes a bit of practice and it must be done on fully cured paint. Really one of the best things is plenty of practice.

When getting good brushes you must take good care of them. With enamal paint espcially. I wipe of the excess paint and then use 3 pot system. Basically clean in pot one, then pot two and finally pot three. By the time you are on the third pot the brush should be basically clean. About once or twice a year I clean them in celulose thinner (works for both enamal & acrylic), it get the crud out. after this wash in a little shampoo!

If you need any help them please get in touch.

Julien

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