Rescribing a full plane

[neu]

I'm wondering if we could start this topic, as lot of modelers are afraiding to start rescribing more than a few lines. I'm one of them :) I rescribed some lines, but I'm not to brave to start with a full plane. But I should :) I have 2 Intruders and 1 Prowler to rescribe. I have 2 devices, 1 is a pen-like stiff, and one from Bare Metal Foils. I have dymo tape as well, but there are areas I cannot use it for guide. (I'm sure I'll get a cheap old kit for training)

So if you ever did it, and you want to shere you're experiences, you have some tips, how-to's please share it with other modelers!

Greetings, neu

Happy Scribing :wacko:

[Steve Filak]

It's actually not that difficult, but it is time consuming and a bit tedious. My advice would be to work on one specific area per session. You may find that there are spots where Dymo tape will not work, in which case you'll have to either make scribing templates from sheet styrene, use existing templates, or free-hand it (I sometimes free-hand curved lines, using the raised lines on a kit as a guide, then sand the raised lines off.

As far as tools, there is no magic bullet. I mostly use a needle in a pin vise, but there are situations where I use different scribers, picks, razor blades, etc. It's all a matter of what works best for you. The key to this technique is practice and patience. Don't try ot do it all in one pass, or it'll look terrible. Just take your time, and put it down when you feel yourself starting to tire of it. Sometimes, when you stay at it too long, you either start to 'cut corners' or get sloppy, so know when to put it down for the night.

Make light passes to get things started, then go a little heavier once the line is established. Don't overdo it.

Finally, after I finish scribing all the lines, I go back over the lines with Testors Liquid Cement to melt all the little burrs in the lines and smooth out the finish. A little polishing with Scothbrite, and you're all set.

I know that this seems WAY oversimplified, but if you have more specific questions, it may be easier to address them that way. Hope this helps to some extent. :wacko:

[Kaan]

Sorry for the late answer.

I mostly agree with Steve, I use a needle in an x-acto handle only. And sometimes the backside a #11 blade. (Break the tip). Nothing else. Those scribing tools make the lines too wide and deep, and only useful for maybe scribing flaps and slats.

What I disagree with Steve is the liquid cement thing. I personally sand the burrs using 800-1000 grit sandpaper and go over the line again with the needle until it is clear.

The key in scribing is patience. Do it very lightly and gently in many passes. This way you can get very thin and nice panel lines-Hasegawa and Tamiya style.

[Mandrake]

Gotta agree with Kaan on this one

Although I have to admit my results are nowhere near as good as his appear to be, that F-16 rescribe is simply amazing! ;)

[tibu]

I have to agree with the no usage of a scribber. I rescribed a whole 1/48 Monogram Do-335 using my squadron scribber and ir is simply to wide.

[neu]

Last night I've finished preparing my Viking to preshading. I rescribed some panel lines at some critical places. It looks very nice, there are new lines connected to existing original ones, but I cannot recognize the border! First I have used a simply metal scriber with Vidia pin (I'm not sure it's clear in english) guided by Dymo tape. I pre-scribed softly with this one. After that I used the Bare Metal scriber. If you can handle it correcty, it would be beutiful. The secret is to hold a bit it in angle (to side direction), and use it carefully and softly. I'm really satisfied with the result. Of course it's still not a full plane, and there was orignal panel lines (mainly streigh ones), but it's working. I think I'll try to rescribe a scrap model with the same method.

Greetings, neu