How to Build Aircraft Dioramas

[JohnReid]

[JohnReid]

This is the interior view of the same side panel.The top of the horizontal beam is where the original foamboard stopped.The filler blocks rest on top with the trusses slipped into the notches.The interior framing is pinewood with tongue depressors for the interior siding.The paint is watered down Nimbus Grey painted directly over the bare boards.Later I will paint on a very watery wash of Raw Umber to tone down the grey color.Do not seal the wood if you are going for a barn siding effect and leave the surface rough to easily accept the weathering pastels.

[JohnReid]

Confused?

In case anyone is confused as to just when these pics were taken,they are about a year and a half old now.The hanger is actually just about completed now except for the wiring for the lights and a few odds and ends.The whole thing will soon be broken down one final time and then will be put back together permanently.The roof,roof trusses,walls,and modules are all designed to come apart with just a few screws, for ease of any future maintenance and transport.The cars,airplanes, figures etc.. will all be permanently fixed to the base.

Today I started designing the wiring scheme for the lighting and the actual fixtures themselves.Lightshades are built up using brass Christmas bells(like the Albatros dio) and cigar tube covers that I had from 30 years ago.(I even found some beautiful spanish cedar veneer wrapping the old cigars)The bells are reduced in size to look more like shades than bells and the wiring is run through brass tubing.

I have run into a little problem that maybe someone could help me with.I have made up little wood receptacles to hold the bulb sockets which I have been assured is ok as there is not enough heat to case a problem.(I hope)I want to glue the sockets into the wood receptacles but i was wondering what kind of glue to use? Epoxy would probably melt with the heat and the continual expansion and contraction would be really hard on most glues. Any suggestions? Thanks! Cheers! John.

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[JohnReid]

[JohnReid]

Foamboard

Thanks to those who responded to my glue question.Hi-heat silicone used for chimneys sounds like a good solution.

My reason for posting the above pic is to give you an idea of just how easy it is to change your mind when using foamboard.

The garage door was originally supposed to go where the windows are now.I simply used the cutouts to patch the hole.(that is a good reason to save all cutouts and to cut them in one piece if possible)They also make great templates for doors and windows.I simply used masking tape to repair the foamboard.

Cheers! John.

[JohnReid]

The Office Module.

After all that window and door making I have decided to have a little fun and finish the office module.I plan to put a desk ,a cabinet,books, ,maps,a picture of Harley the company mascot,lamps ,an old style telephone and radio cabinet,a light in the ceiling and whatever else I can dream up.

It will be really great to actually finish something after all this time.The modules are attached to the main building by screws,so that they are easily attached or removed.They are sort of mini-dioramas on their own .Maybe I will even put a figure or two in the office.I can also light it up seperate from the main building.The rear door/washroom module and the workshop can also be finished prior to the completion of the hangar.

The hangar lighting will be a long repetative job so I really dont feel like tackling it right now.I have one light assembly built,the problem is I need about 20 more.

Cheers! John.

[JohnReid]

[JohnReid]

This is the office module.As you can see the module was an afterthought.The door into the main building was cut after the side panel was sheathed.If you look closely through the office door you can see the interior door leading to the hangar.The module is screwed on at the base and is removable.Since this pic was taken the doors and windows have been added.

[JohnReid]

[JohnReid]

I just found another good reason to use foamboard.You can build your doors and windows to the exact size of the cutout that you use as a template, and then after it is sheathed on both sides ,you can easily recess the foam with a file and then fit in the wood edging.It makes for a super fit.

Cheers! .Happy New Year ! John.

[JohnReid]

[JohnReid]

Foamboard construction before sheathing and framing of walls.Note:the start of the foamboard workshop.The car gives a sense of scale(1/16th).Wall panels are screwed together at the corner posts.

[JohnReid]

A couple of other things about Foamboard

-buy only flat material with no warping

-I understand that it can be bent if you score the other side.A fellow advises me that he built a Roman Arena with it.

[JohnReid]

Why not start your diorama today!

I would like to share with you the following.I found it shortly before starting my latest diorama.

Until one is committed,there is hesitancy,the chance to draw back,always ineffectivness,concerning all acts of initiative (and creation).There is one elementary truth the ignorance of which kills countless ideas and splendid plans:that the moment one definitely commits oneself,then providence moves too.All sorts of things occur to help one that would never otherwise have occurred.A whole stream of events issues from the decision,raising in ones favour all manner of unforeseen incidents and meetings and material assistance whic no man could have dreamed would come his way.Whatever you can do or dream you can,begin it.Boldness has genius,power ,and magic in it.Begin it now.

Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe

Cheers! John.

[JohnReid]

[JohnReid]

The above pic was taken about 11/2 years ago.Note how the roof trusses fit into the wall panels,the sheathing inside and out and wall framing.The office module has not yet been thought of.Do not glue trusses to side panel if you want the roof to be removable

[JohnReid]

Yesterday I put the hardware on the office door,hinges and door knobs.They are 1/12th scale exposed,strap type brass hinges but look great in 1/16th and are very easy to install.

Most of the office furniture is scaled down 1/12th stuff as well.The desk was reduced by removing the bottom 25% which was easy but the chairs require more work.Old style working lamps ,cabinet type radio and telephone are all within scale.The rest ,shelves etc... I will scratch build.

This idea of finishing off the modules first makes for a much more interesting build and is a great incentive to carry on.Most of the boring ,repetitive jobs are done so now it is mostly a lot of fun.Its all fun,it is just some parts are more fun than others. Cheers! John.

[JohnReid]

[JohnReid]

This is the only pic that I could find of the roof trusses peak blocks located between each truss at its highest point on the roof.Also visible are other blocks located between the trusses.These are glued in to create a one piece removable truss assembly.

The steel plates at the mid point of the horizontal beam are actually made of wood,painted black and weathered to look slightly rusty(burnt sienna).The bolt heads are actually pins.The wood was painted nimbus grey with raw umber washes and then weathered with black , grey and burnt sienna pastels.

[JohnReid]

[JohnReid]

Roof

The inter-truss beams looking through the viewing window in the roof .The roof is 1/4 plywood and is held on with a few screws so there is the option of leaving the roof on or off.The truss assembly is remarkably strong even without the roof being screwed on.

[JohnReid]

[JohnReid]

Overall view without trusses.(Where we are till now.)

At this stage(about a year ago or so) the general arrangement of the major parts can be seen(without roof trusses).The four walls are screwed together and are locked into place when the truss assembly is fitted into the sidewall notches.The roof is then screwed to the truss assembly.

The workshop is a self-contained module screwed to the floor and is removable.The office ,rear entrance /WC,and garage door modules have not yet been thought of.

__________________

It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight.

JohnReid (Aviator)

[JohnReid]

Weathering wood:

I have found that using pastels is reall y the way to go when weathering wood to look like old barn siding.I use basically 3 colors.Black,medium grey and burnt sienna.

I prepare the raw wood(usually birch stir stiks)with a couple of thin washes of nimbus grey acrylic paint .Then a couple of washes of raw umber letting most of the original wood pattern show through.

I then do just about all my shading with the subtle use of the pastel colors.I like to shade in areas where dust and crud would gather such as in corners or between the boards.Here you will have to uyse your imagination or take examples from real life.

I am using small pins as nails for the battens on the roof that I am presently constructing ( see: http://www.wwi-models.org Galleries,JohnReid) I paint each nail head with a dot of burnt umber gesso followed by a coat of burnt sienna(for the rust)over that I use a subtle amount burnt sienna pastel for a rusty wood look.

Take your time,be subtle in your shading and you should be able to achieve great results.Cheers! John.

[JohnReid]