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About Jessirelli

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    Glue Required

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    San Francisco

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  1. I'm currently in the process of thinning the sidewalls. How does one test fit the resin sidewalls? It seems impossible to dry fit these pieces without them falling out of place...
  2. Thanks scotthldr. I made a mistake and put all these parts in an ultrasonic cleaner that I use for deep cleaning my airbrush. The rudder pedals couldn't take the vibration and broke into pieces. The back of the cockpit also received a hairline fracture. Luckily everything else is intact. Next time I'll use a toothbrush... The kit is a 1/72 F-16CG/CJ by Academy, cockpit set by Aires and external updates by Wolfpack designs. I'm making a CG Aviano jet.
  3. Hi all, It's my first time doing a complete detail set with resin and photoetch parts. I'm kinda daunted by the fact that these aftermarket parts don't really show an assembly order. It's hard to understand the big picture in terms of building and painting order. I've studied all the instructions but they're mostly exploded views with arbitrary arrows pointing from one part to another. Not that I expected much knowing that these sets are usualy made in Korea and the Czech Republic. Anyone have any advice strategies for an aftermarket detailing noob? 20180414_005953
  4. Wrapping this one up. 2018-04-09 22.47.30 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr 2018-04-09 22.49.38 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr 2018-04-09 22.52.04 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr
  5. Ok so, the argument for building the old monogram F-15C is that you can buy about 4 of these for the price of a Hasegawa/GWH one in the same scale. According to (somewhere deep in the internet that I have long forgotten), this kit is also arguably the best shape and outline representing the real thing, though many also say that it is only correct for an -A version. To boot, the latest rerelease has some striking decals. However, the cons of this kit is long and distinguished. Old raised lines. Cockpit fit takes some remedy to sit level. The forward/rear fuselage joint takes a
  6. Thanks! Hataka colors sprays fine, I did 1:1 distilled water to thin it. Only issue is that vinyl masking tape pulled off a few flakes when I thought it was dry enough. Next time I will clean the parts of fingerprint oil more thoroughly with alcohol and give it a clear coat seal between each color, and use only tamiya tape.
  7. Interesting preshade technique, I will have to try that sometime. I like how the patches are encased in the clear base, very integrated in design. Some people slap the actual cloth patches on their dioramas and it doesn't look right, like it draws attention away from the model, I think.
  8. I too bought a MiG-29 as a "break" from my current build. There's gotta be a quantum connection happening...
  9. I got around to the panel wash stage. Here it is being force dried in a food dehydrator. I did the panel wash with water soluble oil paint thinned way down with a drop of dish detergent. I tested it on the underside and it was still too strong, and some of the rougher spots were stained for good. Guess I'll have to touch that up later. When I wiped off the excess, I rubbed off a couple stencils. Oh well. For the top side I thinned the wash even more, and also worked more carefully. IMG_20170215_143012 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr
  10. I put this off for too long due to other distracting hobbies. I did 98% of the decals in one sitting. IMG_20170209_184733 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr IMG_20170209_185434 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr
  11. Update! image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr I used a combination of flexible vinyl tape cut to 1/32 inch width and regular tamiya tape to mask this job. I still need some touch ups since the white grey did not stick well in some places. After shooting the aggressor blue from hataka, it looked a little too flat and muted greyish green to me. I changed the hue a little by shooting very thinned tamiya clear blue over it and was much happier.
  12. I saw some pictures of an "elephant walk" of models on a desk, and display cases of the same finished plane. There's even pictures of huge stashes of unbuilt F-4's and F-14's and what have you. I might think you're a crew chief of the real thing, or maybe you just like it so much that you need one of each squadron markings or something. So, what is the common theme you look for? Why are you obsessed with it? How much is too much?
  13. Digging up this post 'cuz I'm an F-16 fan. Just wanna add more praise to the display you have here. The model, the details, the photography, all excellent! Keep it up!
  14. There's only 3 hobby stores left here in San Francisco, plus about 4 more if you count gundam and figures only stores. One of them is a 50% craft store, 25% RC and 25% models. The other one is in Japantown but doesn't carry my scale (1/48), though they have paints and tools. The other is a train store I've never been to but hear has some airplanes. The rest are a combo cards/figures/comics place, a hero figure shop, and a gundam place in Chinatown which I'm not sure is there as of recently. These brick and mortar places are great to go to once in a while, particularly for general purpose
  15. My first airbrushed model was a monogram 1/48 F-15C. It must've been 1997, when I was 12. Probably my 5th or 6th model. For what it was worth, I remember it being an enjoyable build. It's accurate enough for some who's only seen the F-15 in pictures and played one in Jane's Fighters Anthology on a pentium 166. Hell, It even has a pilot. I would "dogfight" in my living room with it, flying it with one hand and releasing unglued sidewinders and sparrows with the other. Yeah we've all had that phase, at least I hope I'm not the only one.
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