crackerjazz

4 days?!!! And that beautiful... That really inspires me.....to give up : ( It just commands attention. Very well done, sir!

That looks amazing, Adichau!!!

That looks absolutely gorgeous! @K2Pete you should get yourself one of these things. The prices are certainly dropping and resolution getting better and better. @Aussie-Pete have you seen those ads about 4K screens on newer printers? Do they actually have an effect on print resolution?

Thanks, Manfred : ) Hey, that print is incredible, Pete. Yeah, there's no way to thicken the walls now except go through each of the parts one by one, unfortunately. I've started saving the parts individually so I could work on them separately and create further parts within the assembly. The engine swings on 2 axes. It's just like a universal joint, isn't it? In flight the gyroscopes normally keep the engine vertical to the ground and it's the skeleton frame that spins around it using thrusters. I'm not sure if lateral movement is provided by the thrusters entirely, though. I may have to break down the engine further into several parts before printing. And I may have to cut the frame into 4 parts like a pizza. I'm really tempted to start printing just to see how it turns out but I don't want to waste any resin, knowing the thin walls wouldn't print right.

So organized, Dai -- as clean as a dental clinic : ) Someday I'll tidy up mine to that level. Mine doubles as a computer table, sawhorse, snack table... I do try to be very careful not to mistake the leveling thinner for the soda pop and the wet brushes for the breadsticks as I tend to pick things up without looking and I make sure that's a xacto I'm holding.

Thanks, John! Can't wait for the resin to arrive so I can do a test print. @Aussie-Pete some of the walls are 0.13mm and .025mm like the engine intake and shroud as well as stringers and boxes in the back. Those probably won't print, would they? I never planned to print all the parts in the beginning and so I never considered thicknesses. And now I'm even thinking of printing in 1/32 which is way smaller. I think detail sizes and heights need to be exaggerated. Rivets, for example, should be enlarged for them to show up nicely when printed. They will look toyish on-screen but should look just right when 3d-printed -- is this assumption correct? Do you guys consider this at all when 3d-modelling?

How'd it go? Don't leave us hanging for too long : )

Plugging away on the flying scaffolding : ) Lots more to go as far as trusswork. There's also more detailing to do on the engine and flight computer. But I'd be happy to have something as bare as this sitting on my desk if I could pull it off, as it looks complex enough and would make for a nice enough display. Almost forgot...have to start working on the box cockpit -- the key to making it look ungainly.

Is there an advantage to this slanted orientation compared to having the base of the bell flat on the floor so that no supports are required?

Lol. Hey, John, yes I think it's universal -- I think that includes the way we slowly turn the key and haul the box through the door as quietly as possible and the way they're already there waiting with arms crossed and foot a-tapping. But instead of saying "Hi honey...It's...it's..a pup....puppy," we should say it with conviction --- "It's a puppy! A puppy named Elegoo."

Very life-like weathering, Eric! Really amazing work.

Wow, thanks, @niart17, that might just be the ticket! Yes, that was my problem exactly -- how to model parts in between surrounding parts. Also I normally trace over inserted pictures -- either blueprints or photos and I didn't think this can be done in assembly mode. Will read up on In-context assembly -- sounds exciting : ) Thanks @K2Pete. I hope I can do her justice. This was supposed to be a quick build with rods and scrap styrene that soon turned into a quest for more and more detail. I didn't originally plan to print a 3D model but just use it as a template for the scratchbuild since surface finishes were terrible back then. And I was a noob at 3D when I started it and wasn't sure I could model the entire thing (6 years into it, though, I still feel like a noob ) And it was representative of the real aircraft, with thin aluminum rods and sheets but now I realize that scaling it down the thin walls are unprintable. it's difficult to modify them now but the parts I'm adding hopefully will be 3D-printable and I can re-work the earlier parts one at a time. This might even turn up to be a hybrid of styrene struts and printed end-connectors. The next time I model something I'll always keep wall thicknesses in mind to make sure it's printable in smaller scales -- otherwise it's not worth anything much for us modelers but just something fancy to look at on the computer screen. @Aussie-Pete thanks! Yes you certainly influenced us with your beautiful prints : ) I searched through the local ads and found an Elegoo Mars, read up on it, spent the entire night in bed staring at the ceiling, went for it the next day, took her home with me, and have now ordered some resin. Can't wait to see what issues you 3D-printing nuts normally face at home. My first one was being questioned by the treasury department for the purchase. : )

It could have lodged itself into a groove in the sole of your shoes? Small parts can bite into the rubber soles of shoes and flip-flops where we rarely look and they get released in some other area of the house. But, yes, I still believe there's some outside force that's causing the disappearances of our model parts.

Wow, some great stuff you got going here, MoFo. I'm trying to catch up on 3D printing posts and found yours. The prints are beautiful! Hey, I recognize that render -- is it in Solidworks?

By the way, it looks like 3D printers nowadays can even hollow-out your model for you to save on resin, or even scale it up or down, which is great if you don't have access to the original 3D file. Is it the same for the Anycubic Photon?