crackerjazz

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About crackerjazz

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    Full Blown Model Geek
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    Scale model aircraft real and sci fi.

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  1. Hey, John, awesome tips! Will give it a try. That canopy/defogger looks fantastic by the way -- it even has those doughnut connectors.
  2. Hi Ant, Steve, Yank, Aigore, Jester! Thanks for watching guys! Really appreciate the your kind words! :) I seem to have hit a snag with the canopy frame and defogger. There seems to be good elbow room for the aircrew judging by these pics: But on the model there's much space around the crew with the canopy frame in place. Even on the Aires cockpit the frame can't reach the sill. The RIO's IP coaming gets in the way. So I cut up the frame; I'll see what I could do to make more elbow room. I'm also having a hard time bending the PE part with the rearview mirrors and getting it to fit the inside of the canopy. It's not shown here but I made a mess with the CA glue. This is after sanding/buffing/dunking in Future a second time. Future helps keep the canopy from fogging up using CA glue but I'll have to be extra careful next time.
  3. Hi, I searched around the city for a 747 kit and found this old 1:200 Hobbycraft 747-100 for a good price. I was told it was based off of the Hasegawa kit. I thought the white maple leaf was missing and that I'll have to paint it on : ) It was there - just really hard to spot against a white background. I've always wanted to flap a 747 as it looks so cool with all gears and flaps down. Got this beautiful resin set from AV O - didn't realize there were so many parts. I've never done this before but I'll try my best to make sense of all the wing parts and which areas to cut.
  4. Hi Spaceman, I really admire your work and your determination. With such a daunting project like that I'd probably feel overwhelmed early on and just give up. You have a jeweler's eye, a watchmaker's hand and the patience of a saint.
  5. A Dragon 1/48 LM-5 was sitting on the shelf at my LHS and I debated for months on whether to get it or not. When I finally decided to buy it I was a day too late. I know it's not a kit -- it's prebuilt and has its share of flaws but should dock up nicely with my prebuilt Dragon 1/48 CM. One thing I really want to know, Pete, is how you got your mojo back. You're back with a vengeance, I see. What's the secret?
  6. That makes me green with envy!!!
  7. Very nice!!! Love that Valkyrie!
  8. Oh, by the way, is there a technique to pulling out shorter lengths of rod from the bottom of the Evergreen packet. I figure the multi-packet sleeve might make it harder to shake out just the one you need?
  9. That is pure genius, Wardog! Thanks! : )
  10. You're working too fast for me, Pete. Slow down, please; you're starting the year too 'right', heheh. Seriously it's pure delight to watch you build; I'm looking forward to your next update.
  11. I can't believe my eyes, Wardog! I have a few questions, hope you don't mind 'cause some stuff seem impossible to do and I don't understand how you did them -- like those openings/handles on the side of the console -- how did you open them up so close to the edge? I would imagine that thin edge would tear. Also, those stenciled lettering-- are those hand-painted or are they decals? How do you sand small parts so finely? I find it difficult to sand to shape small parts (like those joysticks) even using small square pieces of sandpaper. Lastly, those buttons on the joysticks - how did you paint them -- normally paint would run and create a mess even if you used the tiniest brush head. Those buttons don't show any painting mess at all. Sorry for all the questions. This is one amazed and puzzled spectator.
  12. Hi Maly149, have you tried Future? I had the same issue on my F-14 canopy. The sanded-down area just wouldn't buff to a really clear finish. Even after 12000 grit it remains slightly clouded. In frustration I just dunked it in Future and let it dry overnight -- and somehow the area turned out nice and clear. Puzzled, I removed the Future by giving it a Windex bath (the Future coating turned slimy and I washed it off completely under the tap). With the Future completely removed I saw that the area is still clouded up. So I dunked it in Future again to test the stuff and let it dry. Again -- nice and clear. Future is like magic -- and I'm a believer! So just wash the canopy with dishwashing liquid to get rid of oils, let it dry completely, dunk in Future, set it on some paper towel to absorb the excess liquid and cover it with a box or such to keep it dust-free while it dries.
  13. What a neat trick, Rob! For the longest time I've been planning on building a shelf made out of tubes stacked horizontally just for styrene rods. But that plastic sleeves method is a real cool idea -- thanks for sharing!
  14. Oh, good, no worries : )
  15. Hi John, It's now under "Share this photo" --> IMG. You can copy paste that link onto your post.