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About crackerjazz

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    Full Blown Model Geek
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    Scale model aircraft real and sci fi.

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  1. Hi Spaceman, thanks for stopping by! :) Had to start over using the measurements. Some shapes are difficult to see in the photos due to washout. Had to adjust exposure to see clearly. This area for example -- you wouldn't readily see where the cuts are. That little overhang got me scratching my head for a while -- it shouldn't be there if the side were flat. There's actually an area that angles inwards, I couldn't really see it until I've adjusted the shadows. Notice the left and right hand sides aren't symmetrical, and is one of the reasons I had to start again from scratch. That's where I am as far as the starboard side pylon. Just need to rotate the linkage in front.
  2. That's an awesome sight!
  3. Very cool! Please do, including how it attaches to the bottom of the model Is it ok here? Or maybe in the Tools n Tips section? And do you think it will be strong enough to support a Tomcat without bobbing?
  4. After poring through pics I had to go back to the drawing board as some of the shapes aren't as symmetrical as I thought. First order of the day -- establishing measurements. 1:100-scale Doyusha fuselage. Derived some measurements using the tool. I believe that after all is said and done, that is gonna be one tiny printed part-- and all those detailing on the main part would be contained in a tiny bounding box less than 4mm high :(
  5. Hi Tony, thanks so much -- really appreciate your help!!!
  6. Thanks for sharing. That Tomcat looks really good in Swordsmen colors.
  7. Hi Manfred, more like a lesson for me than by me, heheh. Thanks for stopping by! Hi Tony, wow! Yes I'll need those close-up pics, thanks in advance! Hey Tracy, you're welcome! It's good exercise for me :) Hi Ray, I saw this review from scalemodellingnow by Geoff McCoughlin and the detailing on the Revell 1:144 pylons don't seem too well defined: The ones on the Hasegawa kit are a little better but still simplified, although you couldn't really expect much at 1/200. These will be 3D printed at 1:100 scale but I'm still not sure how the details would turn out. I know Shapeways has made advances over the years so hopefully the parts will be smoother with more defined details. I don't expect them to be as strong as polystyrene kit parts, though. FUD is brittle and wouldn't stand to a lot of load so Tracy will be casting them for his project using better materials. But then undercuts would pose a problem when moulding so where recesses or openings are too deep on the actual object, I try to make them a bit more shallow. One thing I really want to know from other 3D modellers is if they "exaggerate" details so that they remain visible at small scales. If i were to scale down a screw head, example, at 1:100 they become so small that they are difficult to see. I'm not sure if I should enlarge them to keep them visible and to compensate for poorer printer resolutions?
  8. Oh got another question -- Where do you get your wire, how did you bend it and how is attached to the base and the model?
  9. Hi Loggie, I hate to admit it I wasn't aware of his builds but really sorry to hear about this. May he rest in peace. I googled up a link to his builds -- some incredible work.
  10. Hi guys, I wanted to post my progress on mounts for the 747-Orbiter SCA. I'm doing this really for Tracy's 1:100 747. I'm trying to get back into the groove of 3D modeling -- I get rusty so quickly -- so it's a good subject to practice on, and the shape of the mount is fascinating so I wanted to show you how it looks. Was NASA serious about this sign on the side? :)
  11. Hi 11bee, AV O shared these links of other modellers' builds, too. Beautiful weathered birds and a clean cargo 747. I can't make up my mind which one to build by looking at these -- weathered and clean both look too good!
  12. I second that. It looks like an inborn talent. I wish I could watch him work.
  13. Beautiful job!!!
  14. I usually construct a bobbin shape using a rod and 2 disks (of the diameter I need) to serve as a skeleton. Then I wrap 0.25mm styrene around it, gluing section by section. Before wrapping I normally make the styrene curl up by repeatedly sliding it against the edge of the table. I grab the bottom edge of the styrene and the top end I hold down with the palm of my other hand. And I just pull it down against the edge. Several passes does the trick. I've also had success wrapping the styrene around a pvc pipe and tying it down before dunking it into boiling water for 8 or so seconds (not more than 10 or the styrene will warp). Then quickly rinsing it with cold water to freeze the shape.
  15. I'm joining you in your question, Hawk1270. Thanks for those references, MoFo. This topic fascinates me too. I've built small curved parts using the bulkhead and filler method -- only, the vacuformed shell ends up with lines where the styrene bulkheads are, I'm not sure why. Maybe they want to fuse with the styrene shell because of the heat. Don't forget to post your scratchbuilt airframe builds, Hawk1270. I'm really interested. and check out these threads by Major Walt for some inspiration. and a sci-fi build thread from roback over at therpf. It's incredible how they get to the finished product starting out with just bulkheads, planking and filler.