How to deal with seams...

[HanJo]

Hello dear readers,

In my stash I have a 1/72 Yak-28R by AModel. The nose-cone is glazed, as with most Yak-28s. The cone is split in two halves. However, with the R-version, the split runs right through a part of what is supposed to represent a single piece of window. (This is not the case with the Yak-28L by the way) If glued together, the seam will show up very clearly I can imagine. Is there anything I can do to overcome this problem? Has anybody else built this kit?

Tips are very welcome.

Cheers, Han.

[jrallman]

I know there is a very good article on getting rid of canopy seams in the tools n tips section, but that deals with mold seams, not actual parts seams.

i have not tried this, but the only thing i could think of is to dip the pieces in future, then sand the future off the parts to be attached together. then use tenax or some similar adhesive that will actually melt and bond the plastic. seems like that might be the best way to get rid of the visibility of the seam, then used the method for removing canopy seams in the tools n tips.

another option would be a vacuform canopy. if they dont sell those for the yak-28r, you could make a smashuform. attach and sand the nose peices together, then take some heated clear plastic and press it down over the finished nose piece. the result should be a nice, seamless, clear nose piece.

HTH!

[MarkusN]

You won't be able to get rid of the inner structure irregularities that doubtlessly will remain along the weld line. It will always show up to some degree. If you don't want to go the vacform route I'd consider to replace that single pane by a scratchbuilt part.

[HanJo]

use tenax or some similar adhesive that will actually melt and bond the plastic.

you could make a smashuform. attach and sand the nose peices together, then take some heated clear plastic and press it down over the finished nose piece. the result should be a nice, seamless, clear nose piece.

HTH!

Thanks,

Any idea what are the ingredients are of tenax? Also: any tips on what kind of clear plastic I should use to make a smashuform? (I like the name!) :blink:

Cheers, Han.

[MarkusN]

Tenax is a strong solvent for styrene. If I am not mistaken it's MEK (Methylethylketone).

[T-bone]

what kind of clear plastic I should use to make a smashuform? (I like the name!)

You can use Squadron brand clear Thermaform to make the canopy. It should work well for the "smashuform" method or you could use it to vacuform.

Link to Squadron... not like anyone would need it, but here it is!

[HanJo]

Wow, many thanks for the advice and the link.

;)

Han.

[The Keeper]

Tenax is methylene chloride, same with Pro-weld. If you've got a two piece nose, it's always going to show a seam. Lindberg did that with their Arado 234 back in the day, I haven't heard of anyone doing it lately. Your best bet is a smashuform replacement.

hth

[Bri2k]

HanJo, I've found that the clear blisterpack material batteries come in is excellent for smashuforming nose glazing. It melts at a fairly low temperature, but the advantages are that it's cheap and readily available, so if you goof on your first attempts, you're not wasting anything costly. What I'd do is glue together the pieces from the kit for a mold. Then I'd light a candle and hold the blisterpack over it just until it softens and then press it down over the mold. You could also try carving a piece of dowel or balsa wood to use a mold. Best of Luck!

Bri2k