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The Keeper

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About The Keeper

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    Throw it away and hell you'll pay!

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    Air, Armor, Auto
  1. Ah, I wouldn't expect decals, Letraset, or paint from that era to work admirably. This is just historical info. I got some Letraset to work by putting it out in the hot sun but that was a decade ago. YMMV. Some of us like experimenting with old stuff occasionally and then go out and buy new. Tried Gunze paint restorer yet? Have fun! Cheers,
  2. Saw some Letraset 'decals' offered on ebay recently. These were offered by Squadron back in the early seventies and had no carrier film just like the product still used in graphic production. Here's a link to illustrations published in Squadron Magazine back in the seventies: Letraset aircraft and armor These were the only illustrations I recall seeing published during the era. There were no scheme instructions that came with the rub-ons or mention that most schemes were taken from Osprey publications of the era. Probably some reason for their demise even though it was
  3. Just lovely! The high 65 and the 02 n 71 color combo are just righteous! Maybe this will give me some inspiration to work on my Monogram 109E with a similar color scheme... K
  4. I think that's the one you add to a clear coat to flatten it. Is that what you did? If you use it straight it winds up looking like a salt spray. You wanna add about 10% to a clear coat for flattening. hth
  5. Bet you could mix the blue with the future and come up with a wizard application! K
  6. Next time, reapply the stuff in thicker layers over the pesky spot, that usually re-emulsifies the stuff and allows you to peel it off. Also, ammonia should liquify it as well or benzene/naptha. hth K
  7. Mofo's link was way cool; Gotta get me some! Meanwhile there's very adaptable magnetic tape. Microscale sells a product called Liquitape; an adhesive that remains tacky. A small dot in proper angles and you can swap out doors, panels and ordnance! I've used it to reposition landing gear when changing from landed to flying display. Don't let the pets near it. Hope that helps
  8. Yep, lacquer thinner is what you use to clean an airbrush. Break it down as far as you can and soak for an hour. If you can get more parts off but not all, soak it some more. As previously mentioned try and get the needle through the front rather than dragging any gunk through the mechanicals. You want to then rinse in alchohol to ensure the o rings don't get eaten by the LT. I've also used nail polish remover to good effect for cleaning. You might be able to find a 'no-acetone' version for acrylic users. hth
  9. If I'm pretty sure I'll be painting that evening, I put the tins in my pocket. Works especially well at the gym! Obviously, if you're working with glass bottles then some precautionary padding is smart. Also helps to put a BB or two in the container. A soft air plastic BB will melt in solvent based paint, a metal BB may rust in acrylic paint. And securing containers to jigsaws, sanders and other appropriate tools works a treat. Now if you've got a particularly sludgy bottle the paint stirrers are perfect. You can make one yourself out of any small motor, a shaft and a gear. Just make sure you
  10. To affirm Nachjager, Mr. Color is lacquer thinner based so you can use the hardware store generic if it works for you. I got to try some of that Replenisher! Have a few dried up bottles from the seventies to experiment with.
  11. First place I'd go is a hardware store. They've got myriad styles for small to large fuselages etc. Also try beauty supply stores, they use a lot of different clamps that come in quite handy. Clamps hth
  12. Oh, the edging? Yeah, quite the pain. You'll want to stabilize the wing vertically. After you've cut the strips to size, lay your Microset (or whatever brand you're using)on, then you decal and allow it to dry for around an hour. Then apply your Microsol (or your brand) and don't touch.For the ends of the wings, you might want to work in stages. If you have trouble getting the decal to adhere you can try Future or white glue (maybe thinned.) hth
  13. Like Thommo said, damp tissues are easy to manipulate and after they dry they usually come out in one piece. There is also several brands of clay like adhesive; Blu-tac and Plasti-tac are what I've used. These easily mold to all the nooks n crannies but you want to make sure your brand doesn't leave an oily residue. To that end I recommend Silly Putty (even available in glowinthedark!) Fine masking device for multiple applications. hth
  14. Whilst going through my Squadron catalogs I thought I'd scan the Letraset adds for everyone's interest.Here's the gallery link: Squadron/Letraset
  15. To reiterate previous advice, you need to practice; and spraying on paper will not give you proper realization. Spray on a scrap piece of plastic or unfinished model. A glossy magazine cover can be a last option. Alchohol is also handy for removing overspray and so is Naptha; works a little faster than alchohol so test first on your test strata. Get in close with low pressure and thin paint; a good regulator is primary here. hth
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