ginobetterfly Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 Hi i searched and i still cant get a straight answer... I will be painting my Flanker with model master enamels. i then would like to weather it using some type of wash that will flow and settle in the panel lines. I know i cannot use an enamel wash as the thinner will eat through the paint. I was thinking of using a clear coat but an enamel wash would also eat through the coat no? Please help? thanks in advance... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
markiii Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 Use an acrylic gloss such as "Future" or any good acrylic based clear finish and let it cure at least 48hrs. Also make sure that the enamel paints are cured before applying the acrylic coats so that it does not crack. HTH Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ThatJeffGuy Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 I use MM enamels with a coat of Humbrol gloss cote. Then I use a turpenoid / artist oils (mostly turpenoid) mix to flow thru the panel lines. Turpenoid is less hot than regular turps...should be available in an artists supply store. There's a type of turpenoid used to condition old brushes....avoid it, it's to thick to work with You can also try a 'sludge wash'...mix acrylic paint, water and dish soap...apply, wait a bit and remove excess with a damp cloth or Q-tip. This technique also requires a gloss coat though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FlyingSnowmew Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 I use either Pollyscale or Model Master clear gloss acrylic. I let it set a week and then I use a wash using oil paints and turpenoid. I've never liked to use sludge washes. Water is simply too cohesive to work effectively as a wash. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ginobetterfly Posted July 25, 2007 Author Share Posted July 25, 2007 thanks for the replies... what is the turponoid technique? can you please explain in a little more detail... thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ThatJeffGuy Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 Turpenoid is synthetic turpentine as far as I know. It's colourless and odourless and not as 'hot' as regular turpentine. Get a hold of some good quality artist oil paint (in the tube) from an art supply store. Don't skimp here...one tube will last a long time so get the good stuff (stay away from 'student' types) Mix a small 'clump' of the paint with a _lot_ of thinner so that you essentially have coloured thinner. This should run along your panel lines just nicely assuming you've laid down a good gloss coat (future or other). Anything that spills out of the panel line can be cleaned up with a damp tissue or cotton bud (Q-tip) since it's so thin. If you manage to 'clean up' your panel line too much, just try it again. The 3 main colours you will ever need are black, burnt umber and burnt sienna. Some folks pick up a grey and white tube too. As I think I mentioned...make sure you get the right turpenoid. Here in Canada it's sold in a blue and white can...but I also bought a (green) can of stuff called 'turpenoid' and it was as thick as motor oil. Not the right stuff for sure. The stuff you need is like water. This stuff will take a fair amount of time to dry too....especially if you try it over a natural metal finish! For extra information: I use this same method for washes in cockpits and wheel wells etc. I do not use a barrier (gloss coat) when I do this and it works fine over Model Master Enamels ..... if they have dried for a day or 2. Once again, the weakness of the turpenoid helps out here. :wacko: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ginobetterfly Posted July 25, 2007 Author Share Posted July 25, 2007 Turpenoid is synthetic turpentine as far as I know. It's colourless and odourless and not as 'hot' as regularturpentine. Get a hold of some good quality artist oil paint (in the tube) from an art supply store. Don't skimp here...one tube will last a long time so get the good stuff (stay away from 'student' types) Mix a small 'clump' of the paint with a _lot_ of thinner so that you essentially have coloured thinner. This should run along your panel lines just nicely assuming you've laid down a good gloss coat (future or other). Anything that spills out of the panel line can be cleaned up with a damp tissue or cotton bud (Q-tip) since it's so thin. If you manage to 'clean up' your panel line too much, just try it again. The 3 main colours you will ever need are black, burnt umber and burnt sienna. Some folks pick up a grey and white tube too. As I think I mentioned...make sure you get the right turpenoid. Here in Canada it's sold in a blue and white can...but I also bought a (green) can of stuff called 'turpenoid' and it was as thick as motor oil. Not the right stuff for sure. The stuff you need is like water. This stuff will take a fair amount of time to dry too....especially if you try it over a natural metal finish! For extra information: I use this same method for washes in cockpits and wheel wells etc. I do not use a barrier (gloss coat) when I do this and it works fine over Model Master Enamels ..... if they have dried for a day or 2. Once again, the weakness of the turpenoid helps out here. :D sorry im still alittle confused... when you say THINNER as in "Mix a small 'clump' of the paint with a _lot_ of thinner...", by thinner you mean the turpenoid, right???? thanks again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ginobetterfly Posted July 25, 2007 Author Share Posted July 25, 2007 oh and also this should be applied AFTER the decals are applied and set under a gloss coat, right??? or should i gloss, decal, and then apply the wash without sealing the decals, and THEN seal the wash???? does it matter with what type of clear coat i seal the turpenoid wash???? i will be using the polyscale flat clear coat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ThatJeffGuy Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 yes, sorry for the confusion :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ginobetterfly Posted July 25, 2007 Author Share Posted July 25, 2007 yes, sorry for the confusion :D no please, thank you very much, ill try it as soon as i am at that point. I just glued, filled and sanded the fuselage, nosecone and wings... so i still have to glue the stabilizers, canopy and pilons, then primer, then paint.... THEN wash. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ThatJeffGuy Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 (edited) oh and also this should be applied AFTER the decals are applied and set under a gloss coat, right??? or should i gloss, decal, and then apply the wash without sealing the decals, and THEN seal the wash???? does it matter with what type of clear coat i seal the turpenoid wash???? i will be using the polyscale flat clear coat. The classic pattern is prime pre-shade (if you like the effect and the colour is light) paint post-fade (for darker colours) gloss decal (optional) gloss to seal decals (I don't since I flat coat later on) wash flat coat pastels (stick better to flat) (optional) flat to seal (but can easily blow off your pastel work :blink:) I don't do the 'optionals'...as you can see there are enough steps in the process already Edited July 26, 2007 by ThatJeffGuy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ginobetterfly Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 The classic pattern isprime pre-shade (if you like the effect and the colour is light) paint post-fade (for darker colours) gloss decal (optional) gloss to seal decals (I don't since I flat coat later on) wash flat coat pastels (stick better to flat) (optional) flat to seal (but can easily blow off your pastel work :)) I don't do the 'optionals'...as you can see there are enough steps in the process already :) cool thanks... so i guess it doesnt matter what TYPE of coats i use... meaning if im painting with MM enamels then ill stick with enamel coats also... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ron Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 I use MM enamels with a coat of Humbrol gloss cote. Then I use a turpenoid / artist oils (mostly turpenoid)mix to flow thru the panel lines. Turpenoid is less hot than regular turps...should be available in an artists supply store. There's a type of turpenoid used to condition old brushes....avoid it, it's to thick to work with I use this also but use Humbrol dull coat not gloss. Then wipe the excess off with a kleenex dampend with turps. You end up with a kind of preshaded look to the panel lines. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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