shawninfl

Does anybody have a clear shot of the interior of an 0-2 Skymaster? I'm curious about the seating. I have a Testors 1/48 Mr. Mulligan and I'm thinking I could use the rear seats from the 0-2 for the Mr. Mulligan. I'm guessing that the rear seat wasn't in the 0-2. Anyways its just an idea. Why do I want to do the Mulligan? Even tho its a Hawk kit (I think) without much of an interior, it was one of the few kits my mom bought me when I was a kid so it has some sentimental value. Thought I would give it a nice job and it NEEDS an interior. I've seen photos of the interior of Mr. Mulligan

If you are building a 1/48 P-61, hold onto your hat. I've seen different variations on the interior colors of a P-61. These pictures should give you a lot to think about. http://www.maam.org/p61/p61_rest.htm Seems the interior of the cockpit is NOT yellow zinc. It's Interior Green. Or possibly even Dull Dark Green. I was interested to see that there is no rear bulkhead separating the gunner from the rest of the a/c. The access door to the 20mm cannon is aluminum on the inside. Unzinced. I wondered if this is how its supposed to be or if they hadn't shot any zinc on it.

http://photos1.walmart.com/slideshow/Album.../otsi=SPIClink/ There should be a picture of the interior of my B-25J. The color that I shot was the Moss. What do you think of the color for this a/c?

Well I really must be the cheapskate around here I guess. *L* I don't buy any of the stuff that's out there simply because it is, after all, just a model. For example, I don't use putty for my seams. I love using Elmers Glue. Works really good and a breeze to clean up. By the by, demarcation lines. I know some won't use spray cans because they want a nice clean in scale demarcation line. I take masking tape, lay it on the table sticking side down and press it down. Then I RIP it off. That breaks down some of the adhesive. Then I apply the tape along the line I want and raise the edge

On the FineScale group build I found this submitted by bondoman - "I had a long conversation this evening with my P-61 pilot source. The aircraft had four hard points, for which all could take a 1000 lb bomb, with a total flight time of 5 hrs if the bombs were dropped at some point. The inner two points could take a tank from anywhere of 100 to 235 gallons, which is a pretty hefty 2000 lbs. Metal, not a drop tank if avoidable. His squadron had all black a/c and the tanks were black, as all of his photos show.(He was the squadron photographer). If they look any color other than black, our b

http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/attachmen...y-dark-1945.jpg http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/attachmen...o-no42-5487.jpg Couple of pictures for you. I'm not expert but I'd bet in the ETO they were grey and in the PTO they were natural metal. Please note that in the second photo you can clearly see that the pylon is the same color as the tank, which are both different from the a/c. I have a reference book "American Warplanes of WWII". The color pallette of "Times A Wastin" shows the tanks in what is either white, light grey or silver. I can't be sure. What I can be sure of is both the

Here is one of my favorite rattle can tips. When you want a really glossy finish. Whatever color you are shooting, get a clear gloss of the same maker. Now do your light coats till you get the finish built up to where you can't see any primer. Let dry for a while. Now shoot the color again all over. Give it about 5 minutes and before it can dry, shoot the clear on it. It's real glossy. I've only done this on car models but it does work good.

I wanted to make a comment about putting spray paint in warm water. Heavy emphasis on WARM. I've been doing this for years and I once put one of my small cans of spray paint in hot water. I don't know what I was thinking. The can expanded at the bottom. It domed right out. Nothing else happened and the paint sprayed well, but I couldn't help wondering about the mess if the water had been hotter. I have also just put the can outside in the sun for an hour. I live south of Tampa, so I get some pretty good WARMTH on the can. *L* By the way, remember that HUMIDITY has a big influence on d

I also have the Testors kit as well as a conversion set for the cockpit. Not real sure who makes it. It's molded in tan resin though. I really love how your model was coming together. You do really excellent work and I'm looking forward to getting those wheel bays off of you sometime. Hope you are able to get the time to work on it some more. Keep up the really excellent work.

SALT...SALT...SALT... Prime your aircraft and wait for it to be fully dry. I always go with 48 hours. Then paint the leading edges and any other edges you want to show with silver. Wait again. Now make a paste of salt and a bit of water. Apply to leading edges and the other edges. Let dry completely. I would give it 24 hours. Now shoot on you color coat. When all is said and done, rub off the salt (Q-tip) and you have authentic looking paint chips. Look for the technique in FineScale Modeler. I can't remember the issue but I can find out if necessary.

I agree the paint comes out too heavy, which is why you plan ahead. You make one quick pass across the model and let it dry. Then when dry make another quick pass. Resist the urge to get "full coverage" because the paint is going to run. If you do lay it on a bit heavy, keeping gravity in mind, turn the model so that the heavy paint side is facing up and leave it alone. A lot of times it spreads out evenly. Keep in mind that flat paint is a lot more forgiving than gloss. Also, I can't stress enough keeping the model clean. I know people that clean their models in the sink and literal

This is kind of funny. I was checking out a page on this website relating to interior colors of WWII aircraft and guess what I found? http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index....howtopic=129502 Look closely and you will see that the middle color chip, Dull Dark Green, is a dead match for 2902 Krylon Moss, the same color I chose for painting the interiors of my aircraft. http://www.krylon.com/products/outdoor_spaces_satin_finish/

I'm not sure about the rest of you, but I'm getting tired of paying big bucks for a little 3 oz can of spray paint. $6.00 a can comes out to $2.00 an ounce. Heck thats like paying $1.50 for a 12 oz bottle of water. Sheer waste of money. So I've been looking around for some alternatives. For example, I have seen the interiors of several WWII aircraft myself including the B-17, B-24, and the B-25. Let me tell you something, zinc chromate in a B-25 looks absolutely nothing like zinc chromate in the bottle. I'm talking about Testor Model Master Zinc Chromate. It is a bright green as we all

Guys thanks a lot. I really appreciate the help that's been offered. I got a set of Big Hairy Bird decals from Don. They look great and its going to be a great looking plane. Again many thanks to all of you.

I recently took exterior pictures of a WC-130 a few months back. No interior shots though.