Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Vidar_710

  1. I built this OOB on commission for a local Hobby Shop owner that use to be in this squadron in the early 80's and requested this very load out. The bombs and rocket pods however are aftermarket.
  2. I found the Collective's version of the Planetary Sensor Dome. They supplied a vacuum formed part. My remastered version will be molded and cast in resin.
  3. As I get closer to start the build, I've finally began looking deeper into the vacuum forming process. In doing so, I discovered that it's highly likely that the heat from the hot styrene will most likely damage if not destroy my masters due to the materials they are made of. I just ordered a large amount of molding and casting material to copy my masters. The molding material can take up to 450deg F. Plastics require up to 375deg F to successfully soften the plastic to form properly. I'll have the option to pull the plastic down into a mold or cast copies of the masters and use them as bucks.
  4. Complete, and I'm thoroughly happy with the profile of the upper half of the saucer section now.
  5. Second layer of sculpting dough applied to built up to the proper contour. Then sanded to shape, a putty layer applied, then sanded again... Red fine filler applied to fill in scratches and low areas. Then final sanding Re-priming to come, and I'll finally call correcting the saucer section (top and bottom halves) complete. BTW, all this work done on a kitchen Lazy Susan. 😉 Tracy
  6. Problem with the angle of the outer edge of the saucer. Studio model shows it more vertical. Cleaned off the ledge to add the wider ring that will correct the angle. New ring added. Here you can see the corrected angle to the edge of the hull before the filler is applied. The ring is masked, then Smooth On Filler Dough is used to fill in and make a new surface contour. First application is smoothed in... Another layer or two is expected, then put
  7. Vintage Flyers Boeing 720 & 720B (vintageflyerdecals.com) Tracy
  8. CJ, I have a full flap set for the 1/100 scale 747. I also have the same set in 1/144. Both came out awesome, so hopefully yours work in 1/200. Tracy
  9. Quick search on-line brought me to these... https://g-cals.company.site/G-Cals-Easy-Aztec-Decal-Set-1000-Scale-Star-Trek-NX-01-Entreprise-p225421138
  10. Pics changed to PB. Hope they work now. Tracy
  11. Beating this old girl into submission. This kit showed up at my house with the pax windows glued in and the fuselage halves shattered into seven pieces. Tamiya Extra Thin saved the day, plus the breaks had little to no distortions to them. If the pax windows had not been glued in, I would have filled them with Solarez UV resin, and masked. The cockpit windscreens were damaged and could not be treated back to clear finishes, so filler was used to blend them into the fuselage halves. The kit goes together with some effort. I found after getting the seven fuselage parts glued ba
  12. Aztec Dummy makes masks for it. Check Cult TV man's site. If Lou built it, he made masks for it. Tracy
  13. I fussed over this a few months ago. After all the reviews and YouTubes - and after all was said and done, I'm sticking with the Hasagawa kits. I have all of them all ready; and their paneling detail is in better scale than the newer kits. I have all the aftermarket weps, cockpits, decals, and pods I need to do the Monogram YF-18 thru the Hasagawa F/A-18A-G. Tracy
  14. AA 737-800 Reno Air and AirCal decals yet? Tracy
  15. WAY passed due for a good 1/32 scale kit with everything in the box to make whatever version you want. Tons of weapons to include, with wing/tail fold options, and flap/slat options as well. Tracy
  16. Vidar_710


    All Tomcats became Bombcats. All units "Squadrons" had them.
  17. Feeling compelled to remind you... 😉 Light Gull Gray rear canopies. Tracy
  18. VERY small update. 3D printed fins arrived today.
  19. Two lower hulls would not have worked for you. Remember, the lower hull concaves into the profile of the hull. Just cutting off the B/C deck, replacing it with a styrene plug, and putting the bridge on top would have done it even though the top profile on a Dominion class is quite pronounced.. Example of a styrene plug from my old Copernicus project... The old ERTL kit B/C deck is incorrect, so I cut it off and replaced it with a corrected shape.
  20. Nice build! FYI, check the manual again. The Dreadnought didn't have a B/C deck under the bridge. 😉 Cool looking ship all the same. Tracy
  21. Pretty much finished up all the master work on the superstructure. Using 1mm x 1mm Tamiya grid tape, I scratch made the raised detail that circles the Impulse Christal Trench and recessed details aft of it. Here, the paper template is used to trace out the shaped of the raised plate the bridge dome sits on in the middle of the round section. The straight section is the spine that runs aft away from the rear of the bridge. Grinding away any plastic that isn't the raised bridge plate. All the parts for the top of the superstructur
  22. Here the master is re-primed. The scratch built bridge dome, and 3D modeled Impulse Crystal is placed, along with paper templates for raised plate surface details that will be glued on the clear vacuum formed pull of this master.
  23. The impulse crystal trench is used to size a clay plug to fill in the new position while resi is added. Cleaning up the leading edge of the trench recess with Apoxie Scuplt. The plug goes in snugly. Resin is poured in to back-fill the upper tear. After the resin goes off, the plug is removed to reveal the new trench recess. After much filling, sanding, and blending the new contours in, it's been cleaned and ready for Primer. P
  • Create New...